Fuel tank replacement

[Tyler]

I got my tank off!!! Looking at replacing everything but can’t seem to find the vent valve. I found the bushing but not the part with the 90.

I'm pretty sure I reused my old one, but I did replace the rubber grommet for sure, I do remember doing that. I'm pretty sure LMC has the valves, and Rockauto lists them as well, but they are out of stock. Should be this guy below.

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-911-060-Fuel-Tank-Valve/dp/B00OZVOIPI

FYI, I bought the Filler Neck supply grommet and valve for my short bed 85 F150 16 gal tank and the grommet doesn't fit at all. The diameter is too large and the sandwich groove is not wide enough. I paid $33.... also, it seems like they screen the reviews and only post the 4 star ones.

Local dealership, NAPA, Advance Auto, etc couldnt get the fuel sending unit seal or the rollover valve grommet. I'm going to use a razor blade to modify the one I have and go from there.

[ArdWrknTrk]

FYI, I bought the Filler Neck supply grommet and valve for my short bed 85 F150 16 gal tank and the grommet doesn't fit at all. The diameter is too large and the sandwich groove is not wide enough. I paid $33.... also, it seems like they screen the reviews and only post the 4 star ones.

Local dealership, NAPA, Advance Auto, etc couldnt get the fuel sending unit seal or the rollover valve grommet. I'm going to use a razor blade to modify the one I have and go from there.

Tyler, be careful cutting with a blade.

If there is a cut edge, rather than a molded edge, the rubber is much more likely to degrade or tear.

Kind of like how a forging or casting has more integrity at the surface that the face exposed when it's cut.

[Gary Lewis]

FYI, I bought the Filler Neck supply grommet and valve for my short bed 85 F150 16 gal tank and the grommet doesn't fit at all. The diameter is too large and the sandwich groove is not wide enough. I paid $33.... also, it seems like they screen the reviews and only post the 4 star ones.

Local dealership, NAPA, Advance Auto, etc couldnt get the fuel sending unit seal or the rollover valve grommet. I'm going to use a razor blade to modify the one I have and go from there.

Tyler - We have a place for vendor reviews at Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum › Marketplace › Vendor Reviews & Ratings, and all of those vendors have been given links to their page/folder. Please provide some feedback there as it should help others.

[Tyler]

Tyler, be careful cutting with a blade.If there is a cut edge, rather than a molded edge, the rubber is much more likely to degrade or tear.Kind of like how a forging or casting has more integrity at the surface that the face exposed when it's cut.

Good to know!  Maybe I can shove it in there with some teflon spray and warm it up a little.

 

On Tue, Dec 29, 2020, 7:24 AM ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts Forum] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

 

 

 

[Rusty_S85]

The plastic tube inside the rubber filler hose is the vent for when you're filling with gas. The plastic tube (approx 3/4" OD) fits into little metal tabs on each end...one inside the neck on the tank, and the top end fits in a little tab that vents into two little openings on each side of the hole where you stick the gas pump nozzle in. I replaced my 16 gallon side tank last year, along with the sending unit and straps. I used Spectra Premium stuff from Rock Auto.

16 Gallon tank p/n F14A (Spectra lists it as being a 16.5 gallon tank).

16 Gallon tank sender p/n FG75A

16 Gallon strap kit p/n ST05

I cut new rubber strips to go between the straps and the tank. It was a rubber gasket material I picked up from a local industrial supply shop.

The tank itself fit just fine. No issues there.

The straps are shipped flat, so it's best to pre-bend them using the old straps as guides.

The sending unit is where I ran into some issues. Two things I recommend with any aftermarket sending unit:

1. Plug it into the connector before you install it in the tank and stroke the float up and down to make sure it reads from empty to full on the gauge.

2. Place the new sender next to the old one and make sure that the stroke of the float is the same as the old one, and that the pickup is in the same location.

I did number one, but not number two. The sender was not reading properly, and I ended up pulling it back out and I adjusted it several times until I got it where I wanted it. I bent the float arm until it read correctly, and when I was finished doing that, the float would travel below the fuel pickup. So, using a tubing bender, I bent the pickup tube so that it reached lower.

The way I have it set up now, it reads full no problem. When it reads empty, there's about 2 gallons left in the tank, and it will run out of gas when there is approximately 1 gallon left in the tank.

I did all this "adjusting" with no bed on the truck, so it was relatively easy that way. Just spend a little bit of time checking the sender to make sure it functions properly.

I had the same problem you did as number two. Mine I bent my float up slightly higher than my old one to make it give me a slight reserve cause before when I hit E the truck would drop dead as there was no reserve. Doing this really messed it up cause it took 5 gallons of gas to make the float to even come up off E. When I redo it this time with the 85/86 tank and sender I am not going to bend the float up any but adjust the float to the bottom of the tank and screw trying to get a slight reserve.