Instrument Bezel Control Panel - 3D Printed

[kramttocs]

That's pretty much what I was envisioning, although I was thinking the sides would be the same all the way back so there's no chance it'll rock as you flip the switches. But, as I'm sure you've discovered, those sides aren't parallel nor square. Probably for casting purposes, there's a taper to the pocket so your print has to account for that - and probably already does.

Does the back of that piece accept the switches, or is this just the conceptualized version? When it does, all you need is a collar piece that will go down over the backs of the switches and clamp them to the front piece.

And speaking of that, I did a bit of playing with one of those switches, my instrument bezel with the fog lamp bezel on it, and a spare dash I have in the attic. It looks to me like a tank switch w/o the mounting arm could be mounted to the back of the dash using the collar approach. It may take a spacer in front to get the pivot point just right, but that spacer could be glued to the backside of the dash and have threads or studs on it to accept the collar, thereby capturing the switch.

I concur - that was the 'flowing' part. You would want the panel to fit tight against all four sides as far back as possible.

The measurements here for the switches should be pretty accurate to where if you remove that mounting tab they will fit in with the correct amount protruding through the front. The measurements are where they will go in far enough to where that ledge is flush that you mentioned earlier. So add the collar piece that form fits around the plastic female connector on the back of the switch and it should hold them. That collar will also add some strength to the whole stall section.

Got lucky with the paint or at least I think so. Ran to the box store this evening and picked up some sterling silver acrylic paint and some detail brushes. As I was leaving the aisle I glanced over and saw the paint pens (also acrylic). Lo and behold they had a fine tipped one in 'Metallic'. The color on the cap was close enough to warrant a try.

These are with two coats of the pen although the second coat didn't really have a visual impact. After drying I used my fingernail and it took significant pressure before it was damaged. Even then it just dulled - it never fully flaked off down to black in my tests. It flowed and applied extremely easy. The painted one is an early iteration but I did paint the brake 'boost' numbers that will be on the final version to see how they would come out.

Won't even bother with the bottle of paint or brushes.

I think the size of the letters is pushing it with my printer (or I just don't know how to fully tweak it yet) so the paint emphasizes any defects there but definitely falls into the good enough category for me. May end up rounding the corners of the two frames a bit more though.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I concur - that was the 'flowing' part. You would want the panel to fit tight against all four sides as far back as possible.

The measurements here for the switches should be pretty accurate to where if you remove that mounting tab they will fit in with the correct amount protruding through the front. The measurements are where they will go in far enough to where that ledge is flush that you mentioned earlier. So add the collar piece that form fits around the plastic female connector on the back of the switch and it should hold them. That collar will also add some strength to the whole stall section.

Got lucky with the paint or at least I think so. Ran to the box store this evening and picked up some sterling silver acrylic paint and some detail brushes. As I was leaving the aisle I glanced over and saw the paint pens (also acrylic). Lo and behold they had a fine tipped one in 'Metallic'. The color on the cap was close enough to warrant a try.

These are with two coats of the pen although the second coat didn't really have a visual impact. After drying I used my fingernail and it took significant pressure before it was damaged. Even then it just dulled - it never fully flaked off down to black in my tests. It flowed and applied extremely easy. The painted one is an early iteration but I did paint the brake 'boost' numbers that will be on the final version to see how they would come out.

Won't even bother with the bottle of paint or brushes.

I think the size of the letters is pushing it with my printer (or I just don't know how to fully tweak it yet) so the paint emphasizes any defects there but definitely falls into the good enough category for me. May end up rounding the corners of the two frames a bit more though.

That looks Great, Scott!

Going to be very integrated looking when you're done.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I concur - that was the 'flowing' part. You would want the panel to fit tight against all four sides as far back as possible.

The measurements here for the switches should be pretty accurate to where if you remove that mounting tab they will fit in with the correct amount protruding through the front. The measurements are where they will go in far enough to where that ledge is flush that you mentioned earlier. So add the collar piece that form fits around the plastic female connector on the back of the switch and it should hold them. That collar will also add some strength to the whole stall section.

Got lucky with the paint or at least I think so. Ran to the box store this evening and picked up some sterling silver acrylic paint and some detail brushes. As I was leaving the aisle I glanced over and saw the paint pens (also acrylic). Lo and behold they had a fine tipped one in 'Metallic'. The color on the cap was close enough to warrant a try.

These are with two coats of the pen although the second coat didn't really have a visual impact. After drying I used my fingernail and it took significant pressure before it was damaged. Even then it just dulled - it never fully flaked off down to black in my tests. It flowed and applied extremely easy. The painted one is an early iteration but I did paint the brake 'boost' numbers that will be on the final version to see how they would come out.

Won't even bother with the bottle of paint or brushes.

I think the size of the letters is pushing it with my printer (or I just don't know how to fully tweak it yet) so the paint emphasizes any defects there but definitely falls into the good enough category for me. May end up rounding the corners of the two frames a bit more though.

I think we are on the same page re the tank switches. Should work quite well.

And your paint pen test worked wonderfully. I'm loving it.

[scbill]

I think we are on the same page re the tank switches. Should work quite well.

And your paint pen test worked wonderfully. I'm loving it.

Dang...That looks really good, I had thought of small oil/etc gauges there but none available that I like, may do a switch panel there with an LED voltmeter.

Gary, you have created an awesome site for our trucks...Thanks. Bill

[Gary Lewis]

Dang...That looks really good, I had thought of small oil/etc gauges there but none available that I like, may do a switch panel there with an LED voltmeter.

Gary, you have created an awesome site for our trucks...Thanks. Bill

Welcome, Bill. But it is the rest of y'all that have made this site what it is.

As for gauges, have you seen this: http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/gauge-pocket.html

[Danny G]

I was going to put rockers in mine, but I like the retro 80"s appeal of your square ones. Link us up with where you got them.

[swampedout]

Wow, Ive really only looked at the first pics buy holy cow thats cool.

[kramttocs]

Wow, Ive really only looked at the first pics buy holy cow thats cool.

Thanks. Thought it turned out pretty good. Printed the final one the other day. I ordered some heated inserts but since I had the 6mm x 100mm stainless steel rods available, I just increased the thickness of the hole perimeters in the print settings and then tapped them. Drilled the holes in the cubby for the rods as well as for the wires. Picture only shows the one hole on top but there is also one in the center in the back. Did this because the one on top is primarily for the trailer dial. There is going to be quite a bit of wiring shoved in what little is left of the cubby so letting it come straight out the back will be the easiest.

I would provide a direct link to the buttons and leds but these seem like those things that is sold by one seller today and another tomorrow.

If you search on eBay for "12v square momentary latching button" you'll see them. A few color choices in both the momentary and the latching.

For the leds search for "3mm 12v led indicator"

Hard to tell in the photos but even just hooked up to 9v, the leds are really, really bright so I may play around with some nail polish down the road if they are too much at night.

[grumpin]

Thanks. Thought it turned out pretty good. Printed the final one the other day. I ordered some heated inserts but since I had the 6mm x 100mm stainless steel rods available, I just increased the thickness of the hole perimeters in the print settings and then tapped them. Drilled the holes in the cubby for the rods as well as for the wires. Picture only shows the one hole on top but there is also one in the center in the back. Did this because the one on top is primarily for the trailer dial. There is going to be quite a bit of wiring shoved in what little is left of the cubby so letting it come straight out the back will be the easiest.

I would provide a direct link to the buttons and leds but these seem like those things that is sold by one seller today and another tomorrow.

If you search on eBay for "12v square momentary latching button" you'll see them. A few color choices in both the momentary and the latching.

For the leds search for "3mm 12v led indicator"

Hard to tell in the photos but even just hooked up to 9v, the leds are really, really bright so I may play around with some nail polish down the road if they are too much at night.

Nice job!

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks. Thought it turned out pretty good. Printed the final one the other day. I ordered some heated inserts but since I had the 6mm x 100mm stainless steel rods available, I just increased the thickness of the hole perimeters in the print settings and then tapped them. Drilled the holes in the cubby for the rods as well as for the wires. Picture only shows the one hole on top but there is also one in the center in the back. Did this because the one on top is primarily for the trailer dial. There is going to be quite a bit of wiring shoved in what little is left of the cubby so letting it come straight out the back will be the easiest.

I would provide a direct link to the buttons and leds but these seem like those things that is sold by one seller today and another tomorrow.

If you search on eBay for "12v square momentary latching button" you'll see them. A few color choices in both the momentary and the latching.

For the leds search for "3mm 12v led indicator"

Hard to tell in the photos but even just hooked up to 9v, the leds are really, really bright so I may play around with some nail polish down the road if they are too much at night.

Looks great, Scott!

Do you have heat shrink around the rods back to about where they'll hit the back of the cubby? That's a great idea.

As for all the wiring, that's where things start getting tricky. But it looks like you have that sorted.