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F-Superduty IDI water hauler build


Ford F834

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But he has to get the old cylinder out of the column before installing the new cylinder. How do you do that w/o a key?

I know how it works with a bull or brick nose.

I'd assume an aeronose is much the same...

Take a pair of channel locks and twist the chrome bezel right off.

Pop the cylinder out using any key.

There are instructions all over the internet.

I'm sure you can even find a few YouTube videos.

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I know how it works with a bull or brick nose.

I'd assume an aeronose is much the same...

Take a pair of channel locks and twist the chrome bezel right off.

Pop the cylinder out using any key.

There are instructions all over the internet.

I'm sure you can even find a few YouTube videos.

I didn't know that. IIRC, Huck's column is damaged at the lock, and I assumed it was due to them struggling to get the cylinder out.

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I didn't know that. IIRC, Huck's column is damaged at the lock, and I assumed it was due to them struggling to get the cylinder out.

Aeronose is totally different, the column is a "stub" column. Easiest way to get a key, take the door lock cylinder out, same key and it may have a Ford code stamped on it, should be driver's side but no guaranty on it. Worst case, take the column out. Lower dash cover, column covers (at the wheel) and unplug the combination switch plug and the ignition switch plug. Column mounting nuts are 13mm, I use an old 1/2" deepwell that is worn enough to fit over them.

 

Here is a picture of mine with the attachments noted:

DSCN1619a.thumb.jpg.aac12c504edd409a08484e755effa5d3.jpg

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Aeronose is totally different, the column is a "stub" column. Easiest way to get a key, take the door lock cylinder out, same key and it may have a Ford code stamped on it, should be driver's side but no guaranty on it. Worst case, take the column out. Lower dash cover, column covers (at the wheel) and unplug the combination switch plug and the ignition switch plug. Column mounting nuts are 13mm, I use an old 1/2" deepwell that is worn enough to fit over them.

 

Here is a picture of mine with the attachments noted:

You offer a wealth of knowledge, Mr. Vose! :nabble_anim_claps:

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You offer a wealth of knowledge, Mr. Vose! :nabble_anim_claps:

Yes, he certainly does! I like the door lock idea. :nabble_smiley_good:

Knowing the Aero trucks did away with the oval key (that is bitted the opposite way) is what lead me to change all three at once.

I could have keyed them alike to my old cylinder, but my ignition key was smooth as a baby's bottom.

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Knowing the Aero trucks did away with the oval key (that is bitted the opposite way) is what lead me to change all three at once.

I could have keyed them alike to my old cylinder, but my ignition key was smooth as a baby's bottom.

When I lost the only key I had for the 1995 Continental, I just carried the column less wheel to the locksmith.

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When I lost the only key I had for the 1995 Continental, I just carried the column less wheel to the locksmith.

Thank you gentlemen for your knowledge! I definitely learned a few things. I did not realize that the door and ignition were one key in 1995. That’s a plus in my book. One locksmith I called mentioned something about needing to verify the VIN of the vehicle against a title and photo ID so I assumed I couldn’t get out of towing it in, but it might be worth calling around especially if I could simply bring in a door cylinder. That being said, if there is a DIY method of removing the column cylinder without damaging the column, that would be the cheapest and give me new keys/lock cylinders. I just assume auto makers attempted to make that as difficult as possible to deter theft.

As for the wiring, here are some snap shots of what I am working with...

FAF5E7A0-D3A9-4AE1-8CC8-B3097E23F525.jpeg.f556118027efdf407211ebc4b193c654.jpeg

1BC35B9B-10EA-47D0-8643-9F80C461C9E6.jpeg.a3ada6c5afe6c0835d6ca0a6412bff91.jpeg

AB6E9163-E8F0-4B51-9AB8-C0CE03E480D5.jpeg.1a8e00bd1eec98d121fde2fddee89254.jpeg

1C3FD2E0-CE1F-457E-91BA-01925004332C.jpeg.0df9ddbc0b48d3e5ecae93ceac425034.jpeg

C10B3370-2E6F-4824-B009-6AACAC2E7195.jpeg.184b10e9b13c14dedff76c07c3922583.jpeg

77B3385E-5742-45BB-B368-11E07267ADDE.jpeg.d0f0430236b29f1c6dc5bc1e1352cc0e.jpeg

F3595457-3790-42E1-A41B-A6746D6D1AC6.jpeg.17ac4f3cc9c706ac0c0502eb336664dc.jpeg

7D1E0944-ECB1-4804-8613-666242CEB297.jpeg.041b3fb9a963cd83448b23a905947ea2.jpeg

I know you can’t follow a diagram with these photos but it gives you an idea of the general condition and the workmanship of the previous owner(s). Anything could be repaired with enough effort, but it’s messy...

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Thank you gentlemen for your knowledge! I definitely learned a few things. I did not realize that the door and ignition were one key in 1995. That’s a plus in my book. One locksmith I called mentioned something about needing to verify the VIN of the vehicle against a title and photo ID so I assumed I couldn’t get out of towing it in, but it might be worth calling around especially if I could simply bring in a door cylinder. That being said, if there is a DIY method of removing the column cylinder without damaging the column, that would be the cheapest and give me new keys/lock cylinders. I just assume auto makers attempted to make that as difficult as possible to deter theft.

As for the wiring, here are some snap shots of what I am working with...

I know you can’t follow a diagram with these photos but it gives you an idea of the general condition and the workmanship of the previous owner(s). Anything could be repaired with enough effort, but it’s messy...

Uffff! :nabble_head-slap-23_orig:

I can't see being able to make that mess right.

If you're going to the pick'n pull maybe you could strip an entire harness?

Yes, the locksmith would have to ask for title, otherwise anyone could read a VIN through the windshield and have a key made.

 

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