F-Superduty IDI water hauler build

[ArdWrknTrk]

Very small update... I got the aeronose core support welded up by a nice local Golden Valley man for $40. He took his time and did a nice job. He pulled the gaps together with a long pipe clamp and made it straight and solid. It’s amazing (and disappointing) how thin the metal is. All of the strength is in the profile. I also noticed a tear in the sheet metal on the passenger door near the wing window. I have no idea what happened there but wow, these things are like soda cans 😔.

I am still not 100% sure on how I want to proceed. I farmer rigged a battery and see that I have basic lights and horn, but I have no key, so I can’t check things with switched power. The under hood harness looks very unfamiliar, as well as modified for the cummins swap. What will take less time? Sorting out the ‘95 wiring and make it work with the IDI or the whole dash swap. Both are a little intimidating. Gary do you have any wire diagrams that might cover 1995? I particularly need details about the charging circuits and starter/ignition. I can go full manual on the glow plugs and injection pump functions if I have to.

Jonathan,

The *tear in the passenger door is from the vent window pivot.

There was a small 'bridge' of sheet metal holding the inner and outer door skins together.

When that tears from flexing, the door skin goes next.

I've welded mine many times.

When the door bottom rusted out I said screw it and pop riveted a backer on the inside.

[Ford F834]

Jonathan,

The *tear in the passenger door is from the vent window pivot.

There was a small 'bridge' of sheet metal holding the inner and outer door skins together.

When that tears from flexing, the door skin goes next.

I've welded mine many times.

When the door bottom rusted out I said screw it and pop riveted a backer on the inside.

Thanks for the explanation Jim, that is a bummer. And it’s a bummer that Bricknose doors are also affected, as that was my next idea to use the doors off of the ‘89. Do you know if bullnose doors also have the same design flaw?

[salans7]

Thanks for the explanation Jim, that is a bummer. And it’s a bummer that Bricknose doors are also affected, as that was my next idea to use the doors off of the ‘89. Do you know if bullnose doors also have the same design flaw?

I can confirm that they do, the doors from my 86 also failed at the same spot. Every door that had the western swing away mirrors was affected by it.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary do you have any wire diagrams that might cover 1995? I particularly need details about the charging circuits and starter/ignition

Yes, I have a 1995 EVTM. I'll scan those sections in tomorrow.

On the core support, I remember burning through the one you brought me as I welded up the little cracks in it. Luckily it was while and all the cracks were easy to see. But I was surprised how thin the metal is. However, all welded up I'll be yours, as well as mine, will be quite solid. Thanks again.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

I can confirm that they do, the doors from my 86 also failed at the same spot. Every door that had the western swing away mirrors was affected by it.

I'm very sure it is mirror vibration that does it.

What I can't understand is why it hasn't happened to my driver's side, since that door gets slammed 10x as often as the right.

[Ford F834]

Gary do you have any wire diagrams that might cover 1995? I particularly need details about the charging circuits and starter/ignition

Yes, I have a 1995 EVTM. I'll scan those sections in tomorrow.

On the core support, I remember burning through the one you brought me as I welded up the little cracks in it. Luckily it was while and all the cracks were easy to see. But I was surprised how thin the metal is. However, all welded up I'll be yours, as well as mine, will be quite solid. Thanks again.

Thank you very much Gary, that should help facilitate the decision on which direction to go with this. I am not great with electrical, so this is a headache for me either way.

Shaun, this truck has tripod style mirrors, and the crack is just ahead of the bracket. But Jim is right, the whole door skin feels pretty floppy and not supported:

Buried in this thread probably isn’t the best place for a welding question, but the guy who repaired the core support advised against argon gas. He said not only is it expensive, but produces a brittle weld. He suggested plain old CO2. Since it looks like I have more welding to do, I’m thinking I should get some gas and wire for my Lincoln. For as little as I weld, the price of argon is acceptable, but brittle does not sound good to me. Does anyone have any suggestions before I invest in the bottle and gas?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thank you very much Gary, that should help facilitate the decision on which direction to go with this. I am not great with electrical, so this is a headache for me either way.

Shaun, this truck has tripod style mirrors, and the crack is just ahead of the bracket. But Jim is right, the whole door skin feels pretty floppy and not supported:

Buried in this thread probably isn’t the best place for a welding question, but the guy who repaired the core support advised against argon gas. He said not only is it expensive, but produces a brittle weld. He suggested plain old CO2. Since it looks like I have more welding to do, I’m thinking I should get some gas and wire for my Lincoln. For as little as I weld, the price of argon is acceptable, but brittle does not sound good to me. Does anyone have any suggestions before I invest in the bottle and gas?

As someone who just went through two bottles of gas in my MIG I'm going to say neither is good for sheet metal.

Co2 is great for thick sections in a production environment.

It's cheap, it helps keep the arc stable and it concentrates a lot of heat in the weld pool.

Argon is not so easy to keep the arc stable without a tungsten.

With wire feed the wire is always burning back and this matters a lot.

If I were to go get a tank for doing bodywork and welding up to... say 1/4" I would get 75/25 Ar/CO2.

It's a pleasure to weld with this stuff.

Do you buy or rent a tank?

I own my 80 c.f. and only swap it out.

If you decide to do this you'll probably pay premium for a shiny new tank, and never see it again.

Buying used (with a current cert) is the rational choice to me.

If you use gas every day, or have a 125 or bigger you may have to rent.

State laws about cylinders vary.

[Ford F834]

As someone who just went through two bottles of gas in my MIG I'm going to say neither is good for sheet metal.

Co2 is great for thick sections in a production environment.

It's cheap, it helps keep the arc stable and it concentrates a lot of heat in the weld pool.

Argon is not so easy to keep the arc stable without a tungsten.

With wire feed the wire is always burning back and this matters a lot.

If I were to go get a tank for doing bodywork and welding up to... say 1/4" I would get 75/25 Ar/CO2.

It's a pleasure to weld with this stuff.

Do you buy or rent a tank?

I own my 80 c.f. and only swap it out.

If you decide to do this you'll probably pay premium for a shiny new tank, and never see it again.

Buying used (with a current cert) is the rational choice to me.

If you use gas every day, or have a 125 or bigger you may have to rent.

State laws about cylinders vary.

Thank you for the advice Jim, I will try that mixture. I have to fish plate the frame on my crew cab (1/4”) plus a lot of other jobs on thin metal... body sheet metal, intercooler pipes and exhaust etc., so your description fits exactly. I was going to buy an argon bottle on eBay and have it filled, but if it is by exchange I don’t want to turn in a brand new cylinder. I guess I should contact supply stores that sell gas and see what is available as far as refill and exchange options. Being a novice I should use whatever is most forgiving and easiest to work with.

[salans7]

Thank you for the advice Jim, I will try that mixture. I have to fish plate the frame on my crew cab (1/4”) plus a lot of other jobs on thin metal... body sheet metal, intercooler pipes and exhaust etc., so your description fits exactly. I was going to buy an argon bottle on eBay and have it filled, but if it is by exchange I don’t want to turn in a brand new cylinder. I guess I should contact supply stores that sell gas and see what is available as far as refill and exchange options. Being a novice I should use whatever is most forgiving and easiest to work with.

I like these trucks, but the thickness of the metal in high use areas leaves a lot to be desired.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thank you for the advice Jim, I will try that mixture. I have to fish plate the frame on my crew cab (1/4”) plus a lot of other jobs on thin metal... body sheet metal, intercooler pipes and exhaust etc., so your description fits exactly. I was going to buy an argon bottle on eBay and have it filled, but if it is by exchange I don’t want to turn in a brand new cylinder. I guess I should contact supply stores that sell gas and see what is available as far as refill and exchange options. Being a novice I should use whatever is most forgiving and easiest to work with.

If you buy an inert gas bottle you can have it filled with *whatever*

The welding supply will just slap a sticker on it identifying the contents.

IF they do fills on the spot.

There are conventions WRT which colors are for what gas (beyond the obvious, like green for O2 or black and silver for acetylene)

I think my 75/25 cylinder is maroon or burgundy.

My advice is not that of a professional weldor.

My skill is not there, like some guys I know who weld nuclear, precision equipment, airframes or submarines.

I'm just telling you what works best for me., and I hope it's good advice.

I never heard that about argon leading to brittle welds.

I'm going to ask some friends.