Gary Lewis Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 I need to look at the three I have here before I reply. Ok, thanks. I've Googled and Googled and haven't come up with any discussions of which is best. The 3-screw one, from the '90 F250, is in better condition and might not have to be media blasted and powder coated. The 2-screw one has surface rust and has to be refurbished to be used. But, with the nylon tube between the sides, that appears to be a problem as I don't know how to replace those lines. So, if the 3-screw one is acceptable, that's my preference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 Ok, thanks. I've Googled and Googled and haven't come up with any discussions of which is best. The 3-screw one, from the '90 F250, is in better condition and might not have to be media blasted and powder coated. The 2-screw one has surface rust and has to be refurbished to be used. But, with the nylon tube between the sides, that appears to be a problem as I don't know how to replace those lines. So, if the 3-screw one is acceptable, that's my preference. Gary, I went and looked at (a) the one on Darth, (b) the one on the new engine and © the spare. What I found was the three screws from the bottom, rail PN on regulator mount area is: E9TE-GA which tells me it is probably the second generation rail (first from 1988-1989 would have had the supply and return near the front). The one on Darth and the spare appear identical (I didn't try to read the number on Darth's) PN on the regulator mount is F4TE-EA and the sticker on the spare has F6TE-FD and 09-12-95 on it. Pictures attached. Darth's fuel rail: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 Gary, I went and looked at (a) the one on Darth, (b) the one on the new engine and © the spare. What I found was the three screws from the bottom, rail PN on regulator mount area is: E9TE-GA which tells me it is probably the second generation rail (first from 1988-1989 would have had the supply and return near the front). The one on Darth and the spare appear identical (I didn't try to read the number on Darth's) PN on the regulator mount is F4TE-EA and the sticker on the spare has F6TE-FD and 09-12-95 on it. Pictures attached. Darth's fuel rail: New engine fuel rail from top: From side: Spare fuel rail from top: From side: Label: Bill - Thanks for looking. I agree with you, there was another rail that had the fuel lines coming in up front. Here are the ID #'s for that one and the ones we have, with notes: 1988 F-Series with front fuel line connections & 3 screws: Part # E8TZ 9F792-C and ID # E8TE-CA 1990 F-Series with rear fuel line connections & 3 screws: Can'd find part #, but ID # E9TE-CA 1995 F-Series with rear fuel line connections & 2 screws: Part # F4TZ-9F792-E & ID # F4TE-EA So Darth is running a 2-screw pressure regulator and the new engine has a 3-screw. Any idea which is better? I can go with either, but the 3-screw fuel rail is in better shape. Oddly enough, Amazon has the 3-screw regulators at $62.78 and the 2-screw regulators at $50.98. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 Bill - Thanks for looking. I agree with you, there was another rail that had the fuel lines coming in up front. Here are the ID #'s for that one and the ones we have, with notes: 1988 F-Series with front fuel line connections & 3 screws: Part # E8TZ 9F792-C and ID # E8TE-CA 1990 F-Series with rear fuel line connections & 3 screws: Can'd find part #, but ID # E9TE-CA 1995 F-Series with rear fuel line connections & 2 screws: Part # F4TZ-9F792-E & ID # F4TE-EA So Darth is running a 2-screw pressure regulator and the new engine has a 3-screw. Any idea which is better? I can go with either, but the 3-screw fuel rail is in better shape. Oddly enough, Amazon has the 3-screw regulators at $62.78 and the 2-screw regulators at $50.98. Gary, the two screw is the updated design and the regulator mounting screws are accessible from above. If I needed to replace one I would want it that way. I will probably after looking at these use the later rail on the new engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 23, 2018 Author Share Posted April 23, 2018 Gary, the two screw is the updated design and the regulator mounting screws are accessible from above. If I needed to replace one I would want it that way. I will probably after looking at these use the later rail on the new engine. Good point. I was balancing the later design with that one taking more prep, but the fact that the screws are on the top makes it worth it. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 23, 2018 Author Share Posted April 23, 2018 Good point. I was balancing the later design with that one taking more prep, but the fact that the screws are on the top makes it worth it. Thanks. Had an interesting day with Big Blue today, as outlined in WHYDTYTT. But, realization has set in that with what is going on with our family over the next few months I'm not going to get Big Blue EFI'd. Given that, I fixed the fuel leak so I can use him to help some people move on Saturday. It was the 6-port valve that was leaking, so having only one tank I cut it out and spliced the lines together with a Dorman kit. And, along the way I realized how easy it will be to splice the halves of the fuel rails together. All I have to do is to use a piece of the larger supply fuel line from the kit. The fuel rails have barbs on them just like the splices in the kit, so that will be easy - when the time comes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 E7 heads with F3 gaskets. I would say the threads in Huck's block need replacing. Jim, that actually looks like I saw on Darth's engine when I swapped heads, the 4 outer bolts next to the exhaust ports get hot enough to "coke" any oil on the bolts. If I remember correctly the two end inboard bolts have the oil return holes there and get pretty sludged up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 24, 2018 Author Share Posted April 24, 2018 Jim, that actually looks like I saw on Darth's engine when I swapped heads, the 4 outer bolts next to the exhaust ports get hot enough to "coke" any oil on the bolts. If I remember correctly the two end inboard bolts have the oil return holes there and get pretty sludged up. Interesting. That would explain why they were so hard to get out. And the threads appear to be good. Would that also make the bolts seem like they were way, way over-torqued? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted April 24, 2018 Share Posted April 24, 2018 Interesting. That would explain why they were so hard to get out. And the threads appear to be good. Would that also make the bolts seem like they were way, way over-torqued? Yes, I used a long breaker bar and a "cheater" to break them loose on Darth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 24, 2018 Author Share Posted April 24, 2018 Yes, I used a long breaker bar and a "cheater" to break them loose on Darth. Good to know. Depending on how the ones come out of Big Blue's engine I might put them back on there and let these go with Huck's block and Big Blue's heads when I sell that setup. And, I'll probably media blast the Eddy intake and sell it and the 750 Eddy carb to recoup some of my costs. Oh yes, and the headers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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