Gary Lewis Posted April 21, 2018 Author Share Posted April 21, 2018 I'm thinking a black throttle body attached to that will make it even better. Also, the chrome on the fuel rail from the '95 F450 is rusted in many places, and the 1990 fuel rail from Huck, while better, isn't presentable. So, I'm thinking I'll blast Huck's and PC it black. But, the fuel rails are actually a left rail and a right rail with plastic line connecting them. Obviously that line shouldn't be put in the oven, so does anyone know how to or what with to replace it? I'm into the fuel rails and have realized that I have two different rails & pressure regulators. In fact, the regulators are apparently the only difference in them. Here are the regulators I have: 1990 F250: F4CE-9C968-AA 3 screws and only one o-ring to seal the output 1995 F450: F4SE-9C968-AA 2 screws but two o-rings to seal the output Here's what they look like on the bottom side. I can refurb either rail, but need to understand the differences in regulators and decide which way to go. Note that both have '94 prefixes on the ID #. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 21, 2018 Author Share Posted April 21, 2018 I'm into the fuel rails and have realized that I have two different rails & pressure regulators. In fact, the regulators are apparently the only difference in them. Here are the regulators I have: 1990 F250: F4CE-9C968-AA 3 screws and only one o-ring to seal the output 1995 F450: F4SE-9C968-AA 2 screws but two o-rings to seal the output Here's what they look like on the bottom side. I can refurb either rail, but need to understand the differences in regulators and decide which way to go. Note that both have '94 prefixes on the ID #. Pulled the intake (lower plenum), heads, and pan off of Huck's 460 today and cleaned them up. Here's the pan starting to be cleaned: And here's the pan and accessories after cleaning. I'm not 100% sure I'm going to blast and powder coat the pan, but I probably will. As for the dipstick, it is the later o-ringed style, and I'm pleased with that: I also discovered that the intake gaskets were either the wrong ones or put on incorrectly as they are up to 1/4" off, blocking part of the intake port. This engine was very poorly put together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 21, 2018 Author Share Posted April 21, 2018 Pulled the intake (lower plenum), heads, and pan off of Huck's 460 today and cleaned them up. Here's the pan starting to be cleaned: And here's the pan and accessories after cleaning. I'm not 100% sure I'm going to blast and powder coat the pan, but I probably will. As for the dipstick, it is the later o-ringed style, and I'm pleased with that: I also discovered that the intake gaskets were either the wrong ones or put on incorrectly as they are up to 1/4" off, blocking part of the intake port. This engine was very poorly put together. I had some pretty significant problems getting the heads off of the engine. Four of the head bolts were on so tight that my Harbor Freight Earthquake XT impact, which is supposed to be good for 1000 ft-lbs, would not remove them. I pulled out my big breakover and finally got them loose, but one of them took absolutely everything I could do to break it loose. And even when I got them broken loose they fought the air impact all the way out. In fact, when the threads cleared I still couldn't pull them out. The only way I got them out was by pulling up on an open end wrench under the flanged head as I spun them with the impact. When I got them out they looked like this. What in the world?????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 21, 2018 Share Posted April 21, 2018 Pulled the intake (lower plenum), heads, and pan off of Huck's 460 today and cleaned them up. Here's the pan starting to be cleaned: And here's the pan and accessories after cleaning. I'm not 100% sure I'm going to blast and powder coat the pan, but I probably will. As for the dipstick, it is the later o-ringed style, and I'm pleased with that: I also discovered that the intake gaskets were either the wrong ones or put on incorrectly as they are up to 1/4" off, blocking part of the intake port. This engine was very poorly put together. E7 heads with F3 gaskets. I would say the threads in Huck's block need replacing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 Got the lower plenum powder-coated: And then mated the two plenums for pics and kicks: Now I have the thermostat housing and a bunch of fasteners to do. But the lower plenum took the most time due to all the masking involved. Very time-consuming. And then there's the valve covers. I knew I needed the passenger's side one since it is broken, but looks like leaving the driver's side in hot Simple Green all night stripped off a layer of corrosion protection. But, it got it lots cleaner. Anyway, I think I need a pair of them now. And, here's the tops for comparison. The o-ring groove is .160" deep and .160" wide. So, Bill, can the HD ones be installed where these LD ones were? Are they better due to the bigger o-ring? RE, valve covers, first I was wrong on the size, they are 3/8" heads. On the covers, early ones are an E7TE number, later F5TE. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 E7 heads with F3 gaskets. I would say the threads in Huck's block need replacing. How about F3 heads with E7 gaskets? As for the block, I'm not going to use it but I wonder if the bolts might need to be replaced? I've cleaned the threads and then seem ok, but those bolts were tightened way beyond the torque spec. Way beyond. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 RE, valve covers, first I was wrong on the size, they are 3/8" heads. On the covers, early ones are an E7TE number, later F5TE. Grooves - early 0.160" deep, later - 0.200" deep. The O-ring gaskets are keyed differently so supposedly you can't mix them up. Bill - My valve covers are E7's and have the 160" groove. Is there a way to tell an F5 from the outside? I'd like to find a pair of them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 Bill - My valve covers are E7's and have the 160" groove. Is there a way to tell an F5 from the outside? I'd like to find a pair of them. The right side should have the screw in PCV valve, and if it hasn't been intercoursed with they should match. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 22, 2018 Author Share Posted April 22, 2018 The right side should have the screw in PCV valve, and if it hasn't been intercoursed with they should match. Ok. Got it. Thanks. Any comments on the fuel rail question? Or, maybe I should say the fuel pressure regulator question? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted April 22, 2018 Share Posted April 22, 2018 Ok. Got it. Thanks. Any comments on the fuel rail question? Or, maybe I should say the fuel pressure regulator question? I need to look at the three I have here before I reply. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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