EFI For Big Blue

[Gary Lewis]

Yes, there is a standard, the "Do Not Adjust" is the keep someone without the correct procedure and tools from screwing with it.

The standard on these is a minimum air flow which is set Engine warmed up, Shut off, Unplug IAC (which leaves it closed), Start engine, Set base idle, Shut off, Reconnect IAC. I do not think it was in gear, but it might be.

I think on Darth it is 650 rpm, normal idle in the BE software is 750.

Bill - Lots of questions. First, here are three shots of the two throttle bodies I have. In this first one you can see that the one on the left, which was from the 1990 F20 (Huck) has a flange on the left, and I'm wondering if that is the casting you mentioned where the heater was? Also, note that the one on the right, from the 1995 F450, has holes in the throttle blades while the other doesn't. Obviously that would change how far open the blades need to be to achieve that idle speed w/o the IAC working.

So, you think it would be reasonable to trim the staked screws and remove the throttle blades, pull the TPS, pull the shaft and linkage, and then blast and powder coat one? Would you use the later one w/o the extra casting but with the holes in the blades?

Here's another shot of the side showing that extra casting and the spots that might have been the ports:

And here's the other side:

 

[85lebaront2]

Bill - Lots of questions. First, here are three shots of the two throttle bodies I have. In this first one you can see that the one on the left, which was from the 1990 F20 (Huck) has a flange on the left, and I'm wondering if that is the casting you mentioned where the heater was? Also, note that the one on the right, from the 1995 F450, has holes in the throttle blades while the other doesn't. Obviously that would change how far open the blades need to be to achieve that idle speed w/o the IAC working.

So, you think it would be reasonable to trim the staked screws and remove the throttle blades, pull the TPS, pull the shaft and linkage, and then blast and powder coat one? Would you use the later one w/o the extra casting but with the holes in the blades?

Here's another shot of the side showing that extra casting and the spots that might have been the ports:

And here's the other side:

I would wash them carefully first, the 1995 is what Ford called an "anti-sludging" design. I can't read the label by the screw but it is probably like mine. The anti-sludging ones I believe were Teflon coated on the inside bores, so you would not want to destroy that.

Yes, the dummy passages would have been the water lines. One pressed in fitting was on each side, but I am not sure that piece is even on the 1990.

Yes, the one with the holes is the desirable one to use, that's what is on Darth currently, once I can find (a) the exact angle for the cable location and (b) a suitable intake system, I will be using a V10 throttle body as it's bigger.

[Gary Lewis]

I would wash them carefully first, the 1995 is what Ford called an "anti-sludging" design. I can't read the label by the screw but it is probably like mine. The anti-sludging ones I believe were Teflon coated on the inside bores, so you would not want to destroy that.

Yes, the dummy passages would have been the water lines. One pressed in fitting was on each side, but I am not sure that piece is even on the 1990.

Yes, the one with the holes is the desirable one to use, that's what is on Darth currently, once I can find (a) the exact angle for the cable location and (b) a suitable intake system, I will be using a V10 throttle body as it's bigger.

Here are the labels:

And here are the bores. I have the '95 TB apart, and can cap things and then blast the outside. How hard is it to get the seals for the shaft?

[Gary Lewis]

Here are the labels:

And here are the bores. I have the '95 TB apart, and can cap things and then blast the outside. How hard is it to get the seals for the shaft?

Got the lower plenum powder-coated:

And then mated the two plenums for pics and kicks:

Now I have the thermostat housing and a bunch of fasteners to do. But the lower plenum took the most time due to all the masking involved. Very time-consuming.

And then there's the valve covers. I knew I needed the passenger's side one since it is broken, but looks like leaving the driver's side in hot Simple Green all night stripped off a layer of corrosion protection. But, it got it lots cleaner. Anyway, I think I need a pair of them now.

And, here's the tops for comparison. The o-ring groove is .160" deep and .160" wide. So, Bill, can the HD ones be installed where these LD ones were? Are they better due to the bigger o-ring?

 

[85lebaront2]

Got the lower plenum powder-coated:

And then mated the two plenums for pics and kicks:

Now I have the thermostat housing and a bunch of fasteners to do. But the lower plenum took the most time due to all the masking involved. Very time-consuming.

And then there's the valve covers. I knew I needed the passenger's side one since it is broken, but looks like leaving the driver's side in hot Simple Green all night stripped off a layer of corrosion protection. But, it got it lots cleaner. Anyway, I think I need a pair of them now.

And, here's the tops for comparison. The o-ring groove is .160" deep and .160" wide. So, Bill, can the HD ones be installed where these LD ones were? Are they better due to the bigger o-ring?

Difference is the O-ring depth and PCV valve style, yes they are interchangeable as a pair (only so you don't need two sets of gaskets). The reason for the deeper groove was so the O-ring didn't get cooked as badly and would still seal. The coating you are worried about looks like gray engine paint that came off. Suggestion on them, remove the retainers so you can take the steel bolts out of the aluminum covers and save the seal washers.

Interesting side note, Ford was having problems with sealing on those and the cast aluminum oil pans on some of the 4 cyl engines. NNS, through our service subsidiary, Newport News Industrial, got the job of testing the components and sealing methods which is probably where the deeper O-ring groove came from. I have a pair of incompletely machined 460 valve covers left over from that, one has a small piece of the reinforcement rib removed for a chemical analysis by the Baird Atomic spectrometer.

Next time I go over there, I will see if I can grab them.

[Gary Lewis]

Difference is the O-ring depth and PCV valve style, yes they are interchangeable as a pair (only so you don't need two sets of gaskets). The reason for the deeper groove was so the O-ring didn't get cooked as badly and would still seal. The coating you are worried about looks like gray engine paint that came off. Suggestion on them, remove the retainers so you can take the steel bolts out of the aluminum covers and save the seal washers.

Interesting side note, Ford was having problems with sealing on those and the cast aluminum oil pans on some of the 4 cyl engines. NNS, through our service subsidiary, Newport News Industrial, got the job of testing the components and sealing methods which is probably where the deeper O-ring groove came from. I have a pair of incompletely machined 460 valve covers left over from that, one has a small piece of the reinforcement rib removed for a chemical analysis by the Baird Atomic spectrometer.

Next time I go over there, I will see if I can grab them.

Pretty sure I removed a layer of protection because what is showing is copper. So they must have electroplated the inside of the valve covers. I could powder coat the inside, but might as well just get a good pair.

As for the bolts, I've taken them out of the clean cover, but two of the seals are bad. Is there a good source for them?

[85lebaront2]

Pretty sure I removed a layer of protection because what is showing is copper. So they must have electroplated the inside of the valve covers. I could powder coat the inside, but might as well just get a good pair.

As for the bolts, I've taken them out of the clean cover, but two of the seals are bad. Is there a good source for them?

Not that I know of, I do not think they were serviced.

[Gary Lewis]

Not that I know of, I do not think they were serviced.

Interesting. Maybe the to-be valve covers will have good seals on the bolts?

So, how 'bout the bearings in the throttle bodies? Any tips on removing them so I can reuse them after I blast the housing and PC it?

[Bruno2]

Got the lower plenum powder-coated:

And then mated the two plenums for pics and kicks:

Now I have the thermostat housing and a bunch of fasteners to do. But the lower plenum took the most time due to all the masking involved. Very time-consuming.

And then there's the valve covers. I knew I needed the passenger's side one since it is broken, but looks like leaving the driver's side in hot Simple Green all night stripped off a layer of corrosion protection. But, it got it lots cleaner. Anyway, I think I need a pair of them now.

And, here's the tops for comparison. The o-ring groove is .160" deep and .160" wide. So, Bill, can the HD ones be installed where these LD ones were? Are they better due to the bigger o-ring?

I have to admit the intake looks pretty mean with the plenum attached to it.

[Gary Lewis]

I have to admit the intake looks pretty mean with the plenum attached to it.

I'm thinking a black throttle body attached to that will make it even better.

Also, the chrome on the fuel rail from the '95 F450 is rusted in many places, and the 1990 fuel rail from Huck, while better, isn't presentable. So, I'm thinking I'll blast Huck's and PC it black.

But, the fuel rails are actually a left rail and a right rail with plastic line connecting them. Obviously that line shouldn't be put in the oven, so does anyone know how to or what with to replace it?