EFI For Big Blue

[Bruno2]

Did a bit toward Big Blue's EFI today - performed a lumpectomy. Had an upper plenum that had the EGR bolts twisted off, and since I'm not going to run EGR I removed the EGR valve's mount. Here's how....

First, I used a hack saw and removed the lump as close as I could get to the plenum itself:

Then I mounted the plenum on the mill's table:

And after many passes I had it down to this:

The next step was to tap the passage 3/8" NPT. That normally takes a 37/64" (.578") tap drill. Unfortunately the passage is 5/8" (.613"), so full threads aren't possible. And, in my experience with oversized passages and soft material it is critical that the tap be held precisely aligned with the hole or the threads are easily messed up. (Don't ask, please. ) So, I mounted the plenum on the mill's table again, lined the spindle up with the hole using a drill bit, and then chased the tap with a centering tool:

And, here are the resulting threads. Deep enough to seal for vacuum, especially using PTFE compound, but I wouldn't do this under much pressure.

Here's the plug run in pretty snugly. I think it'll be just about flush when it is put in after the plenum is finished.

And then I did a bit of media blasting to get the plenum clean both inside and out. Here's a shot after both this plenum and Bill's were blasted:

But I wanted the inside to be clean as well since I'm not running that black, sooty, exhaust gas through it, so I cleaned and blasted the inside as well. Here's a shot of the upper end:

And here's a shot from the bottom end:

Now I need to clean and blast the lower plenum so I can powder coat all three of them. Powder coating aluminum is time-consuming as it has lots and lots of pores, and there's always lots of gunk in them. If you don't get the gunk out before placing the part in the oven at 420 degrees the gunk vaporizes and blows the powder off, ruining the finish. (Again, please don't ask.) So, you have to clean the part as best you can before blasting to ensure the media stays clean, and then wash the part in brake cleaner to get everything off that you can and pop it in the oven. Two hours at 420 degrees does the gunk in and then once you pull the part out you have to wash it in brake cleaner again and then ensure all the brake cleaner has vaporized by heating the part with the heat gun.

Only then you can apply the powder. In this case I think I'll use Eastwood's Silver Lining instead of clear-coating them. The problem is that it is really hard to get cast aluminum an even color, so I'd rather use a powder that will hide the color differences.

Another option is to use Eastwood's Blasted Aluminum. However, it has a texture to it and will catch grease, so I'm leaning to Silver Lining - like I used on Dad's front driveshafts:

I should have hit the inside of Bill's too. I was worried about scoring up the gasket surface though.

[Gary Lewis]

I should have hit the inside of Bill's too. I was worried about scoring up the gasket surface though.

It actually took a lot more than media blasting to get mine clean. I used the Simple Green in the parts washer and a few different brushes to get a lot of it. Then the CRC brake cleaner, which got some more. So I tried the O'Reilly's brake cleaner, which got more. All in all I used way more than a can of brake cleaner on that. And then I took it to the blast cabinet.

[85lebaront2]

Did a bit toward Big Blue's EFI today - performed a lumpectomy. Had an upper plenum that had the EGR bolts twisted off, and since I'm not going to run EGR I removed the EGR valve's mount. Here's how....

First, I used a hack saw and removed the lump as close as I could get to the plenum itself:

Then I mounted the plenum on the mill's table:

And after many passes I had it down to this:

The next step was to tap the passage 3/8" NPT. That normally takes a 37/64" (.578") tap drill. Unfortunately the passage is 5/8" (.613"), so full threads aren't possible. And, in my experience with oversized passages and soft material it is critical that the tap be held precisely aligned with the hole or the threads are easily messed up. (Don't ask, please. ) So, I mounted the plenum on the mill's table again, lined the spindle up with the hole using a drill bit, and then chased the tap with a centering tool:

And, here are the resulting threads. Deep enough to seal for vacuum, especially using PTFE compound, but I wouldn't do this under much pressure.

Here's the plug run in pretty snugly. I think it'll be just about flush when it is put in after the plenum is finished.

And then I did a bit of media blasting to get the plenum clean both inside and out. Here's a shot after both this plenum and Bill's were blasted:

But I wanted the inside to be clean as well since I'm not running that black, sooty, exhaust gas through it, so I cleaned and blasted the inside as well. Here's a shot of the upper end:

And here's a shot from the bottom end:

Now I need to clean and blast the lower plenum so I can powder coat all three of them. Powder coating aluminum is time-consuming as it has lots and lots of pores, and there's always lots of gunk in them. If you don't get the gunk out before placing the part in the oven at 420 degrees the gunk vaporizes and blows the powder off, ruining the finish. (Again, please don't ask.) So, you have to clean the part as best you can before blasting to ensure the media stays clean, and then wash the part in brake cleaner to get everything off that you can and pop it in the oven. Two hours at 420 degrees does the gunk in and then once you pull the part out you have to wash it in brake cleaner again and then ensure all the brake cleaner has vaporized by heating the part with the heat gun.

Only then you can apply the powder. In this case I think I'll use Eastwood's Silver Lining instead of clear-coating them. The problem is that it is really hard to get cast aluminum an even color, so I'd rather use a powder that will hide the color differences.

Another option is to use Eastwood's Blasted Aluminum. However, it has a texture to it and will catch grease, so I'm leaning to Silver Lining - like I used on Dad's front driveshafts:

Do you want an extra lower to powder coat? I have at least one spare, but need to look at the PN, there is a change in 1992.

[Gary Lewis]

Do you want an extra lower to powder coat? I have at least one spare, but need to look at the PN, there is a change in 1992.

Difference? What difference? I have a '90 and a '94 - I think. (Was the truck Jim parted out a '94?)

Let's find out the differences as I already have two so probably don't need another.

[85lebaront2]

Difference? What difference? I have a '90 and a '94 - I think. (Was the truck Jim parted out a '94?)

Let's find out the differences as I already have two so probably don't need another.

1995, I think the PN changed from an E7 or E8 PN to an F2 PN. According to AllData the PN for a 1990 is F3TZ-9424-E so it must have changed. They do not give the PN for 1988 or 1989, but your parts CD should have it. The one on the new engine has F2TF-9K461-BA cast on it which I believe is the later casting

[Gary Lewis]

1995, I think the PN changed from an E7 or E8 PN to an F2 PN. According to AllData the PN for a 1990 is F3TZ-9424-E so it must have changed. They do not give the PN for 1988 or 1989, but your parts CD should have it. The one on the new engine has F2TF-9K461-BA cast on it which I believe is the later casting

Catalog shows: 88/ E-F250/350 8 460 EFI E7TZ 9424-G Lower

I'll check the two I have in the morning and let you know. And, you are right, it was a '95 F450 so may have a different lower plenum. But I know the uppers are the same as they have the same ID number on them, although different casting date codes.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Catalog shows: 88/ E-F250/350 8 460 EFI E7TZ 9424-G Lower

I'll check the two I have in the morning and let you know. And, you are right, it was a '95 F450 so may have a different lower plenum. But I know the uppers are the same as they have the same ID number on them, although different casting date codes.

The two plenums I have are indeed different:

• Huck's 1990 F250 shows RF-E8TE-9K461-DA and that should be part # E7TZ 9424-G

• Jim's 1995 F450 shows RF-F2TE-9K461-BA and that should be part # F3TZ 9424-E

So, what's the difference? Which should I use? I've done some cursory Googling and didn't find anything definitive.

[85lebaront2]

The two plenums I have are indeed different:

• Huck's 1990 F250 shows RF-E8TE-9K461-DA and that should be part # E7TZ 9424-G

• Jim's 1995 F450 shows RF-F2TE-9K461-BA and that should be part # F3TZ 9424-E

So, what's the difference? Which should I use? I've done some cursory Googling and didn't find anything definitive.

I don't know specifically what the difference is, but the fact that it came out with the F3TE heads might be the reason. I have an F3TZ-9424-E on the new engine as it has the RF-F2TE-9K461-BA casting number.

[Gary Lewis]

I don't know specifically what the difference is, but the fact that it came out with the F3TE heads might be the reason. I have an F3TZ-9424-E on the new engine as it has the RF-F2TE-9K461-BA casting number.

Good point. Since I have the F3 heads I'll go with the matching intake - although those heads are currently mated to the earlier intake.

Ok, next question: which injectors? I just pulled the ones out of the '95 F450's intake and they are F1TE-D5A's, but the ones in Huck's '90 intake are E8TE-B1C's. I assume they are both 24 lb/hr injectors. Both are blue. Is one better than the other? What size injector should I go back with?

[85lebaront2]

Good point. Since I have the F3 heads I'll go with the matching intake - although those heads are currently mated to the earlier intake.

Ok, next question: which injectors? I just pulled the ones out of the '95 F450's intake and they are F1TE-D5A's, but the ones in Huck's '90 intake are E8TE-B1C's. I assume they are both 24 lb/hr injectors. Both are blue. Is one better than the other? What size injector should I go back with?

24 should be adequate, I was going to go with 30s but the Ford racing (best ones according a Chevy EFI guru) are NLA so I had to go to 47s. Depends on what the engine will actually need.

The newer ones might be a little better, but whichever I would send them to be rebuilt and tested.