3G Alternator Wiring

[ArdWrknTrk]

Are you saying this plug below doesn’t need to even go back into the truck?

Right

[FormerBigDaddy]

Take connector 610 completely out of the picture.

None of that is needed with the 3G.

You need yellow wire 37 to the fused side of the alternator output, and you need the light green/red wire to the (I) of the alternator regulator plug.

I’m confused. You say nothing on connector 610 is needed but Gary said earlier that the expectation is that the connector stays and the large yellow wire is needed and is the main power source of the cab.

No, there is nothing on the 3g conversion page regarding connector 610 or what to do with the large yellow wire, red wire, or yellow green wire.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I’m confused. You say nothing on connector 610 is needed but Gary said earlier that the expectation is that the connector stays and the large yellow wire is needed and is the main power source of the cab.

No, there is nothing on the 3g conversion page regarding connector 610 or what to do with the large yellow wire, red wire, or yellow green wire.

Gary suggested that the large yellow wire (not the bk/or shunt wire spliced to it) should be protected by a 14Ga. fusible link, and that should connect to either the hot lug of the starter relay, or the cab side of the Megafuse.

The only other wire you need is the lt gr/r wire that has key on power and needs to go to (I) of the regulator plug.

Gary suggested that you take this from the point where it entered the old regulator plug.

In my truck I unpinned the cab side of connector 610 and made single plugs for those two wires.

[FormerBigDaddy]

Gary suggested that the large yellow wire (not the bk/or shunt wire spliced to it) should be protected by a 14Ga. fusible link, and that should connect to either the hot lug of the starter relay, or the cab side of the Megafuse.

The only other wire you need is the lt gr/r wire that has key on power and needs to go to (I) of the regulator plug.

Gary suggested that you take this from the point where it entered the old regulator plug.

In my truck I unpinned the cab side of connector 610 and made single plugs for those two wires.

Ok we’re getting somewhere. I understand what you mean now.

Here’s a pic of what’s left of my old harness. I assume that is the fuseable link J we are discussing? It has the cut red wire and a yellow wire going to the old regulator plug on there as well as the old black/orange wire.

Should I splice the large yellow wiring we’re talking about back into that black/orange wire and put that ring connector with the fuseable link back on the + side of the solenoid? I assume I can disregard the red and yellow wire?

[Gary Lewis]

Ok we’re getting somewhere. I understand what you mean now.

Here’s a pic of what’s left of my old harness. I assume that is the fuseable link J we are discussing? It has the cut red wire and a yellow wire going to the old regulator plug on there as well as the old black/orange wire.

Should I splice the large yellow wiring we’re talking about back into that black/orange wire and put that ring connector with the fuseable link back on the + side of the solenoid? I assume I can disregard the red and yellow wire?

You guys are doing well. I've been following along, but this is another case where too many cooks spoil the broth.

However, I'll jump in on the last question. In this case you could splice the yellow wire back into the black/orange wire where it came from. I don't think the yellow wire is long enough to get to Fuse Link J w/o using the black/orange wire. And the black/orange wire only has a very small amount of resistance in it so having it there won't hurt anything.

The cleaner way would be to connect the yellow wire directly to Fuse Link J, which is the wire with the red tab. But, as said, I don't know if there's enough length to do that.

[ArdWrknTrk]

You guys are doing well. I've been following along, but this is another case where too many cooks spoil the broth.

However, I'll jump in on the last question. In this case you could splice the yellow wire back into the black/orange wire where it came from. I don't think the yellow wire is long enough to get to Fuse Link J w/o using the black/orange wire. And the black/orange wire only has a very small amount of resistance in it so having it there won't hurt anything.

The cleaner way would be to connect the yellow wire directly to Fuse Link J, which is the wire with the red tab. But, as said, I don't know if there's enough length to do that.

I guess, if you need the length, you can use the shunt wire to make the connection.

I -personally- feel my cab is already marginal for power (and I have a headlamp relay harness!)

I wouldn't want a length of resistive wire in that feed.

 

[FormerBigDaddy]

You guys are doing well. I've been following along, but this is another case where too many cooks spoil the broth.

However, I'll jump in on the last question. In this case you could splice the yellow wire back into the black/orange wire where it came from. I don't think the yellow wire is long enough to get to Fuse Link J w/o using the black/orange wire. And the black/orange wire only has a very small amount of resistance in it so having it there won't hurt anything.

The cleaner way would be to connect the yellow wire directly to Fuse Link J, which is the wire with the red tab. But, as said, I don't know if there's enough length to do that.

Thank you guys for the help. Good news is when I cut the big yellow wire I did it right next to the factory splice so I have the whole wire to work with still. My solenoid is mounted fairly close to the 610 connector, so I’ll probably splice and solder straight to the wire with the fuseable link. I should have enough length.

No problem with the bigger yellow wire going to that smaller wire with the fuseable link? I don’t know much about wiring but you don’t usually see larger gauge wire spliced to smaller gauge.

Also is the shunt wire you refer to the black/orange? Still learning lingo.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thank you guys for the help. Good news is when I cut the big yellow wire I did it right next to the factory splice so I have the whole wire to work with still. My solenoid is mounted fairly close to the 610 connector, so I’ll probably splice and solder straight to the wire with the fuseable link. I should have enough length.

No problem with the bigger yellow wire going to that smaller wire with the fuseable link? I don’t know much about wiring but you don’t usually see larger gauge wire spliced to smaller gauge.

Also is the shunt wire you refer to the black/orange? Still learning lingo.

Yes, the black/orange wire that passes by the two ammeter wires is called the shunt.

It's somewhat undersized, so some of the power going to the truck has to travel through the meter.

[FormerBigDaddy]

Yes, the black/orange wire that passes by the two ammeter wires is called the shunt.

It's somewhat undersized, so some of the power going to the truck has to travel through the meter.

Sorry guess I’m asking twice so I only cut once... ha

If I have enough of the bigger yellow wire, which I think I do, I can splice it to the wire going to the fuseable link and lose the entire shunt with the other wires completely... right?

[Gary Lewis]

Sorry guess I’m asking twice so I only cut once... ha

If I have enough of the bigger yellow wire, which I think I do, I can splice it to the wire going to the fuseable link and lose the entire shunt with the other wires completely... right?

Yes, that would be ideal.