FormerBigDaddy Posted February 16, 2020 Author Share Posted February 16, 2020 Yes, too many cooks in the kitchen.... I'm headed out to church and won't be able to work this until afternoon. But we can get you through it. What does Fuseable Link J look like? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 16, 2020 Share Posted February 16, 2020 What does Fuseable Link J look like? The note in the EVTM says it's either 16Ga (orange) or 14Ga. (Green), depending on the alternator output. Either way, it is spliced to the black/orange wire leading to the cab. It has rubber insulation and a black collar with tab or ear at the ring terminal end where it attaches to the hot side of the fender mounted starter relay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FormerBigDaddy Posted February 16, 2020 Author Share Posted February 16, 2020 The note in the EVTM says it's either 16Ga (orange) or 14Ga. (Green), depending on the alternator output. Either way, it is spliced to the black/orange wire leading to the cab. It has rubber insulation and a black collar with tab or ear at the ring terminal end where it attaches to the hot side of the fender mounted starter relay The black/orange wire is originally spliced with the bigger yellow wire I’m talking about along with the yellow/green wire. So you’re suggesting I should reconnect the larger yellow wire with the black/orange wire along with the yellow/green? Obviously I wouldn’t include the end of the black/orange wire that powered the 1g alternator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 16, 2020 Share Posted February 16, 2020 The black/orange wire is originally spliced with the bigger yellow wire I’m talking about along with the yellow/green wire. So you’re suggesting I should reconnect the larger yellow wire with the black/orange wire along with the yellow/green? Obviously I wouldn’t include the end of the black/orange wire that powered the 1g alternator? You asked what fuselink (J) looks like..... You only need the three wires in the 3G regulator plug and the charge output cable going to the Megafuse. (S) bk/w goes to the choke (B) y/w goes to the output stud (I) r/lt grn goes to power in crank and run. On that plug, that you show, the only wire you really want is the r/lt grn (key on power) wire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FormerBigDaddy Posted February 16, 2020 Author Share Posted February 16, 2020 You asked what fuselink (J) looks like..... You only need the three wires in the 3G regulator plug and the charge output cable going to the Megafuse. (S) bk/w goes to the choke (B) y/w goes to the output stud (I) r/lt grn goes to power in crank and run. On that plug, that you show, the only wire you really want is the r/lt grn (key on power) wire. Ok, so then what happens to the big yellow wire? Doesn’t that power the lights in inside the cab? And the red wire and yellow green can stay disconnected? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 16, 2020 Share Posted February 16, 2020 Ok, so then what happens to the big yellow wire? Doesn’t that power the lights in inside the cab? And the red wire and yellow green can stay disconnected? Cab power should come from the chassis side of the Megafuse, or the hot lug of the fender mounted starter relay. The ammeter can stay disconnected, but the shunt wire needs to be bypassed. Isn't all this in the 3G tutorial page? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FormerBigDaddy Posted February 16, 2020 Author Share Posted February 16, 2020 Cab power should come from the chassis side of the Megafuse, or the hot lug of the fender mounted starter relay. The ammeter can stay disconnected, but the shunt wire needs to be bypassed. Isn't all this in the 3G tutorial page? So my original thoughts are correct? Large yellow to battery side of the mega fuse or starter solenoid and the other 2 wires (red and yellow green) are unused and I can cap them off and out of the way? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 16, 2020 Share Posted February 16, 2020 Cab power should come from the chassis side of the Megafuse, or the hot lug of the fender mounted starter relay. The ammeter can stay disconnected, but the shunt wire needs to be bypassed. Isn't all this in the 3G tutorial page? Take connector 610 completely out of the picture. None of that is needed with the 3G. You need yellow wire 37 to the fused side of the alternator output, and you need the light green/red wire to the (I) of the alternator regulator plug. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 16, 2020 Share Posted February 16, 2020 So my original thoughts are correct? Large yellow to battery side of the mega fuse or starter solenoid and the other 2 wires (red and yellow green) are unused and I can cap them off and out of the way? You don't need to cap them, nothing is flowing there. If you choose to modify the ammeter to a voltmeter later you may still want them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FormerBigDaddy Posted February 16, 2020 Author Share Posted February 16, 2020 You don't need to cap them, nothing is flowing there. If you choose to modify the ammeter to a voltmeter later you may still want them. Are you saying this plug below doesn’t need to even go back into the truck? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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