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3G Alternator Wiring


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I’m just about ready to go with this and wanted to confirm something that isn’t covered on the conversion page... and that is the plug pictured below, specifically what to do with wires OTHER than the green/red wire.

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Large Yellow: This now needs a ring terminal and goes to mega fuse in 3G set up?

Red: Not used? Cap off?

Yellow/green: Also not used? Cap off?

Green/Red: I know this goes to 3g alt “I” (This info is covered everywhere)

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It looks like you've gotten a plug from a different source than I've seen and the wire colors are different. So we have to figure out where each wire goes in the connector to ensure we understand

In my pic below there are three wires in the main connector, and the regulator has the lettering A S I on it. If your regulator has that lettering you can plug the connector in and figure out which wire color matches to what the writeup says:

  • A: Yellow/white wire that tells the regulator what the alternator's output voltage is. It can go directly to the output stud of the alternator or it can go to the alternator's side of the fuse/fuse link.

  • S: Black/white stator output and that wire wraps back to the middle terminal on the regulator's plug. But, if you have a 7 volt choke be sure to see the ​Choke tab, above.

  • ​I: Light green/red wire that tells the regulator that the key has been turned to On. This wire will connect to your original light green/red wire, regardless of whether your truck has an ammeter or idiot lights.

alternator-with-cable-and-lettering_orig.thumb.jpg.bce574a5d6c9340e5a75f30729ff8a32.jpg

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It looks like you've gotten a plug from a different source than I've seen and the wire colors are different. So we have to figure out where each wire goes in the connector to ensure we understand

In my pic below there are three wires in the main connector, and the regulator has the lettering A S I on it. If your regulator has that lettering you can plug the connector in and figure out which wire color matches to what the writeup says:

  • A: Yellow/white wire that tells the regulator what the alternator's output voltage is. It can go directly to the output stud of the alternator or it can go to the alternator's side of the fuse/fuse link.

  • S: Black/white stator output and that wire wraps back to the middle terminal on the regulator's plug. But, if you have a 7 volt choke be sure to see the ​Choke tab, above.

  • ​I: Light green/red wire that tells the regulator that the key has been turned to On. This wire will connect to your original light green/red wire, regardless of whether your truck has an ammeter or idiot lights.

Gary, that's not even the correct plug, that looks more like a piece of 2G or 1G harness. That is one of the 80s weather proof "pull apart" connectors.

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It looks like you've gotten a plug from a different source than I've seen and the wire colors are different. So we have to figure out where each wire goes in the connector to ensure we understand

In my pic below there are three wires in the main connector, and the regulator has the lettering A S I on it. If your regulator has that lettering you can plug the connector in and figure out which wire color matches to what the writeup says:

  • A: Yellow/white wire that tells the regulator what the alternator's output voltage is. It can go directly to the output stud of the alternator or it can go to the alternator's side of the fuse/fuse link.

  • S: Black/white stator output and that wire wraps back to the middle terminal on the regulator's plug. But, if you have a 7 volt choke be sure to see the ​Choke tab, above.

  • ​I: Light green/red wire that tells the regulator that the key has been turned to On. This wire will connect to your original light green/red wire, regardless of whether your truck has an ammeter or idiot lights.

Gary I’m good with the wiring of the internal regulator and 3G alternator. I don’t have any questions about the S, I, or A wire.

The picture I posted is the female end that will go back in the truck. Maybe seeing the other end will help.

CD5BD5EB-C432-49E4-859C-FFBCAD43BD1E.jpeg.bef2c649237698860cc7bb4228a38686.jpeg

Again, the question is about the BIG YELLOW WIRE. According to schematic I’ve seen it goes to the mega fuse. Wanted to make sure that’s right.

I believe the red wire and yellow/green are not used in 3G and can be capped off. (They were for ammeter).

Green/Red goes to “I” in back of 3g alternator.

436F984E-C89D-4531-B65C-271D1A6B3837.jpeg.fb1eece9e6ca96d1001d1bd307fb780d.jpeg

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Gary I’m good with the wiring of the internal regulator and 3G alternator. I don’t have any questions about the S, I, or A wire.

The picture I posted is the female end that will go back in the truck. Maybe seeing the other end will help.

Again, the question is about the BIG YELLOW WIRE. According to schematic I’ve seen it goes to the mega fuse. Wanted to make sure that’s right.

I believe the red wire and yellow/green are not used in 3G and can be capped off. (They were for ammeter).

Green/Red goes to “I” in back of 3g alternator.

Ok, I'd assumed that was the connector to the 3G, and obviously it isn't. My bad.

That appears to be Connector C610, as shown below. I've circled the four wires that should be in it. Is that correct?

The expectation was that you'd leave that connector in place. The big yellow wire is a main power feed to the truck and is necessary. The two wires to the ammeter (R/O & Y/LG) can stay if you aren't replacing the ammeter, although it will always show discharge. And the LG/R would be picked up where the old regulator was on the fender and fed to the 3G's regulator.

Have you already cut the wires, like it looks like in the pic?

Connctor_C610.thumb.jpg.f7f6970395d7c8c26ef26a048d63b278.jpg

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Ok, I'd assumed that was the connector to the 3G, and obviously it isn't. My bad.

That appears to be Connector C610, as shown below. I've circled the four wires that should be in it. Is that correct?

The expectation was that you'd leave that connector in place. The big yellow wire is a main power feed to the truck and is necessary. The two wires to the ammeter (R/O & Y/LG) can stay if you aren't replacing the ammeter, although it will always show discharge. And the LG/R would be picked up where the old regulator was on the fender and fed to the 3G's regulator.

Have you already cut the wires, like it looks like in the pic?

Yeah the wires are cut like in the pic.

The big yellow wire had to be cut since it went to the factory splice. Where does this big yellow wire go now? Mega fuse?

Is it a problem that I cut the Red wire and yellow/green wire?

This is what I was going off of.

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Yeah the wires are cut like in the pic.

The big yellow wire had to be cut since it went to the factory splice. Where does this big yellow wire go now? Mega fuse?

Is it a problem that I cut the Red wire and yellow/green wire?

This is what I was going off of.

The yellow wire was protected by Fuse Link J in my diagram above. And just taking it to the Megafuse won't really offer the correct protection. Fuse Link J is probably a 14 gauge wire and may be able to pass 70 amps w/o melting. The Megafuse is probably a 150 amp, right?

You can connect the yellow wire to the Megafuse, but if you get a short in the yellow wire it'll melt it quickly w/o blowing the fuse. I wouldn't. I'd connect it back to Fuse Link J.

The red/orange and yellow/green are for the ammeter. Are you going to use it or replace it with a voltmeter?

There were lots of good things about RJM, but that diagram is not one of them.

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The yellow wire was protected by Fuse Link J in my diagram above. And just taking it to the Megafuse won't really offer the correct protection. Fuse Link J is probably a 14 gauge wire and may be able to pass 70 amps w/o melting. The Megafuse is probably a 150 amp, right?

You can connect the yellow wire to the Megafuse, but if you get a short in the yellow wire it'll melt it quickly w/o blowing the fuse. I wouldn't. I'd connect it back to Fuse Link J.

The red/orange and yellow/green are for the ammeter. Are you going to use it or replace it with a voltmeter?

There were lots of good things about RJM, but that diagram is not one of them.

Well I’m lost now. I’ve read so many posts, threads, and websites about this 3g conversion and didn’t see that big yellow wire talked about anywhere. Yes the mega fuse I have is 150 amps.

I didn’t have current plans for a voltmeter and I had only read that the ammeter would no longer properly function without converting it to a voltmeter. So I guess the answer is no, I didn’t have plans for a voltmeter or the ammeter.

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Well I’m lost now. I’ve read so many posts, threads, and websites about this 3g conversion and didn’t see that big yellow wire talked about anywhere. Yes the mega fuse I have is 150 amps.

I didn’t have current plans for a voltmeter and I had only read that the ammeter would no longer properly function without converting it to a voltmeter. So I guess the answer is no, I didn’t have plans for a voltmeter or the ammeter.

Yes, too many cooks in the kitchen....

I'm headed out to church and won't be able to work this until afternoon. But we can get you through it.

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