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Fuel pump


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Yes, that’s where I’m at now. Isn’t firing up.

Jeremy

I don't want to assume anything. So you have two jets of gas squirting into the carb when you move the throttle? And, when you are trying to start it the choke is coming almost closed?

If so, have you confirmed that you have spark? Take an old spark plug and pull the wire off a plug, stick the old plug in the wire, and lay the old plug on the engine where it'll be touching metal on the outside shell. Crank the engine and see if you have spark, and what color it is.

 

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I don't want to assume anything. So you have two jets of gas squirting into the carb when you move the throttle? And, when you are trying to start it the choke is coming almost closed?

If so, have you confirmed that you have spark? Take an old spark plug and pull the wire off a plug, stick the old plug in the wire, and lay the old plug on the engine where it'll be touching metal on the outside shell. Crank the engine and see if you have spark, and what color it is.

I think that I need to confirm spark and will try that next. Do I remove a spark plug from the engine or use a spare spark plug to perform the test? Just want to make sure I am on the same page. What possible spark colors are there and what would they mean. Thanks for the advice.

Jeremy

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I think that I need to confirm spark and will try that next. Do I remove a spark plug from the engine or use a spare spark plug to perform the test? Just want to make sure I am on the same page. What possible spark colors are there and what would they mean. Thanks for the advice.

Jeremy

No need to remove a plug if you have a spare.

Colors are white/blue is good, yellow/red is poor. But any spark is better than none.

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No need to remove a plug if you have a spare.

Colors are white/blue is good, yellow/red is poor. But any spark is better than none.

I had no spark...replaced coil, distributor cap & rotor along with ignition module. And she fired right up and sounded awesome. Thanks for all the help! I think I have the “bug” now. Going to get it on jack stands next so I can get all tires replaced. Not sure what to do with fuel tank. Is it worth trying to clean or just replace with new? Anything else I need to do while I have it lifted?

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I had no spark...replaced coil, distributor cap & rotor along with ignition module. And she fired right up and sounded awesome. Thanks for all the help! I think I have the “bug” now. Going to get it on jack stands next so I can get all tires replaced. Not sure what to do with fuel tank. Is it worth trying to clean or just replace with new? Anything else I need to do while I have it lifted?

Glad it worked!

As for the fuel tank, I wouldn't clean it. I'd buy a new tank instead. They aren't expensive, and you'll dodge a lot of problems that you would probably have if you tried to clean it.

As for what else to do, check all of the suspension bushings. The ones on the control arms are frequently bad.

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  • 3 years later...

Yes, the fuel pump is down there, but no you cannot take the pulley off as that requires a special puller. However, you can loosen the tension on the belt and then take the power steering pump bracket off the engine and lay the pump to one side.

But, make sure you don't have a bad hose. The hoses on these trucks weren't made for gasohol and that eats them up. And if the hose before the pump has any split or porosity, or a bad clamp, where it can suck in air it won't be able to pull gas and pump it.

IMG_7724.thumb.png.6ebe3c2e373bdb71003ceacce1a68411.png

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Hello Gary,

Could you maybe please circle the bolts you are talking about.

My fuel pump just broke recently and i finally received the replacement shipment from the US and definitely have to remove parts to be able to access the two bolts of the pump.

Thanks,

Philipp

If I remember correctly there are two bolts holding the bracket on to the engine. There's a really long one that goes through the bracket, and my arrow that points "up" in the picture is trying to point to it. And then there should be another one below that which cannot be seen in the picture.

Also, there's the bolt that my other arrow points to that you loosen to tighten the tension on the belt. You'll need to loosen that before you remove the other two bolts to take the tension off the belt, and then when you put the pump back on you'll have to re-tension the belt.

Phils_PS_Pump.thumb.jpg.de0572623b9e5be9658314a2d8cc12c8.jpg

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If I remember correctly there are two bolts holding the bracket on to the engine. There's a really long one that goes through the bracket, and my arrow that points "up" in the picture is trying to point to it. And then there should be another one below that which cannot be seen in the picture.

Also, there's the bolt that my other arrow points to that you loosen to tighten the tension on the belt. You'll need to loosen that before you remove the other two bolts to take the tension off the belt, and then when you put the pump back on you'll have to re-tension the belt.

Awesome. Thank you so much!

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  • 2 weeks later...

The square hole in the steering pump bracket is there for you to use a breaker bar to hold tension on the belt while you tighten the adjuster bolt.

Ratchet heads are typically too large to clear the pulley.

So i replaced it today. 😁 I was actually able to access the fixings from the top and the fuel lines from underneath. It all took a while due to limited access. Most time i spent on inserting the lever correctly but it runs again without spill. Thanks again

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