ArdWrknTrk Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Sticking the what, where with who? I'll need to look that up. Ha! I'm serious when I say I have no clue. But, I'm willing to learn is the point! Just please bear with me is all I ask. On Sat, Jan 20, 2018, 13:02 ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] < ml+s12971n6278h49@n8.nabble.com> wrote: > I apologize. > Did not realize how flat it is where you are. > > That it only happens *sometimes* makes it more challenging to diagnose. > Are you sure it is fuel and not something like a sticking advance plate in > the bottom of the distributor? > > It would be great if you could make it up to Skiatook for a GTG. > Plenty of projects and knowledge to share at Gary's Garagemahal. > Lil' Red > '87 F250, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with an > Edelbrock 1826 and Performer intake. > Too much other stuff to mention. > > > ------------------------------ > If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion > below: > http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Fuel-lines-tp6246p6278.html > To unsubscribe from Fuel lines, click here > > . > NAML > > If you lift up the distributor cap you will see the rotor. The rotor should turn a few degrees if you twist it, and it should snap right back when you let it go. This is the action that allows the timing to advance as the engine rpm's climb. Sometimes the pivot gets gummed up and it will not advance smoothly, or maybe it will not return. It you were accelerating through the gears it might not be as noticeable as accelerating slowly past 50. Or engine vibration at the top of one gear might keep it moving. This is a stretch, but simple enough to rule out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Sticking the what, where with who? I'll need to look that up. Ha! I'm serious when I say I have no clue. But, I'm willing to learn is the point! Just please bear with me is all I ask. On Sat, Jan 20, 2018, 13:02 ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] < ml+s12971n6278h49@n8.nabble.com> wrote: > I apologize. > Did not realize how flat it is where you are. > > That it only happens *sometimes* makes it more challenging to diagnose. > Are you sure it is fuel and not something like a sticking advance plate in > the bottom of the distributor? > > It would be great if you could make it up to Skiatook for a GTG. > Plenty of projects and knowledge to share at Gary's Garagemahal. > Lil' Red > '87 F250, 4.10's, 1356 4x4, Zf-5, 3G, PMGR, Saginaw PS, desmogged with an > Edelbrock 1826 and Performer intake. > Too much other stuff to mention. > > > ------------------------------ > If you reply to this email, your message will be added to the discussion > below: > http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Fuel-lines-tp6246p6278.html > To unsubscribe from Fuel lines, click here > > . > NAML > > September 15th, 2018. BE THERE! (Echoing a popular commercial for many events in the 60's.) Yes, we could certainly check things out up here. But, I hope you get it sorted long before then as I'd like to see your truck. Have you tried flooring it when it starts to labor? I ask because it is possible for the enrichment needles to get stuck in the down, or lean, position. I've never seen it, but I've heard/read that it can happen. And if that happens the engine will be quite lean as you try to accelerate, and might cause it to refuse to go. But, if you had enough air flow (RPM) then flooring the throttle could cause the secondaries to open and that will cause the mix to go rich enough to cover up the lean primaries. Just a thought. And, someone else suggested trying different gears. So, shift to a lower gear and see if that makes a difference. That reduces the cylinder pressure and could bypass an ignition problem, like bad wires, plugs, cap, rotor, etc. So, give that a try as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PetesPonies Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 OK, if that random, then not a fuel level in the bowl issue. It's not changing levels. Ignition problems cn be random, more so. Heat effects them so much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pebcak Posted January 27, 2018 Author Share Posted January 27, 2018 September 15th, 2018. BE THERE! (Echoing a popular commercial for many events in the 60's.) Yes, we could certainly check things out up here. But, I hope you get it sorted long before then as I'd like to see your truck. Have you tried flooring it when it starts to labor? I ask because it is possible for the enrichment needles to get stuck in the down, or lean, position. I've never seen it, but I've heard/read that it can happen. And if that happens the engine will be quite lean as you try to accelerate, and might cause it to refuse to go. But, if you had enough air flow (RPM) then flooring the throttle could cause the secondaries to open and that will cause the mix to go rich enough to cover up the lean primaries. Just a thought. And, someone else suggested trying different gears. So, shift to a lower gear and see if that makes a difference. That reduces the cylinder pressure and could bypass an ignition problem, like bad wires, plugs, cap, rotor, etc. So, give that a try as well. Just got back online and saw this post Gary. Finally had some time to catch up a little and read before tomorrow. When you ask: "Have you tried flooring it when it starts to labor?" Yes I have. The engine will try to speed up but the engine "bogs down" just like you explain. It's like that until I let off totally and go back down to about 45 mph. Tomorrow I'll be working on this for awhile while the Mrs is out riding horses. Hence why I'm here making a checklist of things to go over so I don't miss something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pebcak Posted January 27, 2018 Author Share Posted January 27, 2018 OK, if that random, then not a fuel level in the bowl issue. It's not changing levels. Ignition problems cn be random, more so. Heat effects them so much. The only thing I can think of that I haven't changed for spark/ignition are the plug wires. New: starter, battery, battery cables, ground wire, solenoid and Motorcraft plugs. If I've missed something let me know and I'll look as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 27, 2018 Share Posted January 27, 2018 The only thing I can think of that I haven't changed for spark/ignition are the plug wires. New: starter, battery, battery cables, ground wire, solenoid and Motorcraft plugs. If I've missed something let me know and I'll look as well. Go out now and start it up. With all the lights off do you see a blue glow around any of the plug wires? Or, worse yet, sparks? The ignition system can easily cause the problems you are describing. What happens is that the voltage required to jump across the plug is dependent upon the pressure in the cylinder. As you start speeding up the pressure goes up and, therefore, the voltage required goes up. And if the wires or plugs are poor the voltage will find another path to ground instead of jumping across the plug. One way around that is to run in a lower gear at the same speed. That drops the pressure in the cylinder, and might allow the engine to rev on up. But, that approach usually doesn't work for the fuel system as it still takes as much gas to do the work. So, if shifting down lets you go a bit faster before it "lays down" then it is ignition related. But, if it doesn't help then it may be fuel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 27, 2018 Share Posted January 27, 2018 The only thing I can think of that I haven't changed for spark/ignition are the plug wires. New: starter, battery, battery cables, ground wire, solenoid and Motorcraft plugs. If I've missed something let me know and I'll look as well. The only thing I can think of that I haven't changed for spark/ignition are the plug wires. New: starter, battery, battery cables, ground wire, solenoid and Motorcraft plugs. If I've missed something let me know and I'll look as well. I don't see any mention of distributor, cap, rotor, or coil. You know, the -ignition system- that those plug wires connect all together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pebcak Posted January 27, 2018 Author Share Posted January 27, 2018 The only thing I can think of that I haven't changed for spark/ignition are the plug wires. New: starter, battery, battery cables, ground wire, solenoid and Motorcraft plugs. If I've missed something let me know and I'll look as well.I don't see any mention of distributor, cap, rotor, or coil.You know, the -ignition system- that those plug wires connect all together.And again I show my lack of thinking. I did replace the rotor and cap. I took a picture of the rotor position before removing it and I used sharpie on my cap to get the wires back in the right order. :) I have not replaced the coil. Growing up my dad always replaced cap and rotor. On Sat, Jan 27, 2018, 05:31 ArdWrknTrk [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 27, 2018 Share Posted January 27, 2018 Here's a suggestion. When the truck starts acting up, pull over (if it is safe to do so) open the hood and feel the ignition coil. Is it scorching hot? Did you burn yourself, or is it just warm-hot? A coil that is struggling will get hot. (So will one with too much dwell, but we aren't talking points here) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pebcak Posted January 27, 2018 Author Share Posted January 27, 2018 Here's a suggestion. When the truck starts acting up, pull over (if it is safe to do so) open the hood and feel the ignition coil. Is it scorching hot? Did you burn yourself, or is it just warm-hot? A coil that is struggling will get hot. (So will one with too much dwell, but we aren't talking points here) So Far I've done the following. - Driving at a lower gear - still does the same thing in any gear. - Loosened gas cap - No change - Cleaned out the carb without taking it off. - No change but looks a lot better. :) - Rotor test for spring back with the advance plate- It does. - Physically and visually and carb sprayed all vacuum lines and no leaks - Physically and visually checked all fuel lines and see no leaks - I'm not 100% sure but I don't think I have an evap canister. There isn't anything below my battery but the wheel well. All the emissions stuff was ripped out before I got the truck. Still to try - Pull over when happening and feel ignition coil. - Start the truck when it's dark and look for any glow or sparks around plugs or wires. - Take out the fuel filter before the fuel pump and change the lines from tank switch to mechanical fuel pump. Then put the filter between the pump and carb. - Take the carb off and check float level. I have a couple other things to do before trying the others. Might not be until tonight/tomorrow morning. Thanks again to everyone that's assisting by answering questions. I'm putting my hands (physically) all over this truck learning as I go! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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