ArdWrknTrk Posted February 27, 2020 Share Posted February 27, 2020 Gary, Before the pump, Ford's of this era used 3/8" feed and 5/16" return. You can see that in the Dorman applications for their fuel line repair kits. Not sure if I follow. Do I need the 3/8" or 5/16" filter in the rubber line before the fuel pump? 3/8" FEED. You should be using a 3/8 filter in the line going TO the carb. (not shouting, quick answer on phone) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delco1946 Posted March 18, 2020 Author Share Posted March 18, 2020 3/8" FEED. You should be using a 3/8 filter in the line going TO the carb. (not shouting, quick answer on phone) So I had my brake booster rebuilt, mechanic put on a new MC, but didn't tune the carb despite asking for it. Engine runs like crud - its scary to drive now. Only one person in my area seems to rebuild carbs and he sounds over 80 with physical limitations, has no place to work, and I'd have to remove the carb myself. My truck gets parked on the street so this is not great as i can't move it if i do this option. I'm honestly just wanting to throw money at the problem and make it go away, but i'm hitting road block after road block. At this point i may just try and do it myself, but in reading various forums it sounds like i should also replace the egr spacer gaskets and carb gaskets. (I have vacuum leak issues so this could be a contributor and i want to "do it right" the first time.) Fel-pro was recommended but according to their website, they don't carry my engines gaskets. Per Gary's website, i need a calibration code found on my engine which I don't have. How in the world do i proceed? Motorcraft 2150 off a 1981 5.8L 351m Carb tag: E1PE BA A 9E 16 PS -preferred option is to pay someone who knows carbs to fix this, so if you're in the Portland area......lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 18, 2020 Share Posted March 18, 2020 So I had my brake booster rebuilt, mechanic put on a new MC, but didn't tune the carb despite asking for it. Engine runs like crud - its scary to drive now. Only one person in my area seems to rebuild carbs and he sounds over 80 with physical limitations, has no place to work, and I'd have to remove the carb myself. My truck gets parked on the street so this is not great as i can't move it if i do this option. I'm honestly just wanting to throw money at the problem and make it go away, but i'm hitting road block after road block. At this point i may just try and do it myself, but in reading various forums it sounds like i should also replace the egr spacer gaskets and carb gaskets. (I have vacuum leak issues so this could be a contributor and i want to "do it right" the first time.) Fel-pro was recommended but according to their website, they don't carry my engines gaskets. Per Gary's website, i need a calibration code found on my engine which I don't have. How in the world do i proceed? Motorcraft 2150 off a 1981 5.8L 351m Carb tag: E1PE BA A 9E 16 PS -preferred option is to pay someone who knows carbs to fix this, so if you're in the Portland area......lol Christopher - It isn't necessary to have the calibration code or even the #'s off the carb in order to get the right kit. The 2150 kits are pretty universal and usually come with multiple gaskets, so if you are careful and match gaskets up you should be fine. But, if this is your first rebuild you may be better off buying a rebuilt carb. Even though the 2150 is one of the easier carbs to work on, if you mess it up you could be stuck. I don't have a recommended vendor, but in doing some searching on here, others have recommended: Hite Parts in Ohio Rock Auto And you are right about the EGR gaskets. Those can be a problem areas, as can the spacer plate itself since they are a known problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted March 19, 2020 Share Posted March 19, 2020 Christopher - It isn't necessary to have the calibration code or even the #'s off the carb in order to get the right kit. The 2150 kits are pretty universal and usually come with multiple gaskets, so if you are careful and match gaskets up you should be fine. But, if this is your first rebuild you may be better off buying a rebuilt carb. Even though the 2150 is one of the easier carbs to work on, if you mess it up you could be stuck. I don't have a recommended vendor, but in doing some searching on here, others have recommended: Hite Parts in Ohio Rock Auto And you are right about the EGR gaskets. Those can be a problem areas, as can the spacer plate itself since they are a known problem. I looked into these folks, don’t remember who recommended them, but I believe someone did. https://guaranteedcarburetors.com/ I ended up buying a Holley Classic so the linkage would match and I’m happy with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delco1946 Posted March 19, 2020 Author Share Posted March 19, 2020 I looked into these folks, don’t remember who recommended them, but I believe someone did. https://guaranteedcarburetors.com/ I ended up buying a Holley Classic so the linkage would match and I’m happy with it. Sweet! thank you both! I was in a foul mood earlier so thanks for the tips. I keep getting passed from mechanic to mechanic which has been frustrating. If i attempt to do this myself, I am very concerned that, as Gary mentioned, i might screw this up lol:nabble_smiley_blush:. I had a very long but productive conversation with the elderly guy who is a carb expert but no longer has a shop - he was trying to decline doing the work (can't fault him for his honesty!) but mentioned another place that he had heard good things of in past years. I called them and although busy, it sounds like they have the know how to both rebuild carbs as well as get my engine running well. Until then the truck will have to look pretty in the street - had a heating oil delivery and the guy even asked about it (noticed the 8-track player of all things). On the upside, i'm required to work from home due to COVID19, and now have the opportunity to work on something i'm much more knowledgeable in - antique radio repair. Stay safe! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delco1946 Posted May 1, 2020 Author Share Posted May 1, 2020 Sweet! thank you both! I was in a foul mood earlier so thanks for the tips. I keep getting passed from mechanic to mechanic which has been frustrating. If i attempt to do this myself, I am very concerned that, as Gary mentioned, i might screw this up lol:nabble_smiley_blush:. I had a very long but productive conversation with the elderly guy who is a carb expert but no longer has a shop - he was trying to decline doing the work (can't fault him for his honesty!) but mentioned another place that he had heard good things of in past years. I called them and although busy, it sounds like they have the know how to both rebuild carbs as well as get my engine running well. Until then the truck will have to look pretty in the street - had a heating oil delivery and the guy even asked about it (noticed the 8-track player of all things). On the upside, i'm required to work from home due to COVID19, and now have the opportunity to work on something i'm much more knowledgeable in - antique radio repair. Stay safe! Hi all, hope you’re all doing well and staying safe! Update; so it was quite a bear to find a shop that was rated well and is familiar with carbureted vehicles, but I found one and they generally work on vehicles even older than mine. However I can’t say they have very nice bedside manner as they clearly have been treating me like a “dumb blonde”. Long story short they rebuilt the carb, egr gaskets, cleaned out sludge from the valley pan and changed fluids, etc. I’ve picked my truck up twice now ( not a good sign) and I continue to have problems with it but I think I would rather try to adjust the carb myself rather than take it back in as they clearly don’t seem to be spending the time or just don’t really care to do the job correctly. I think they did good work but that they simply haven’t really bothered to adjust the carb and that’s what my question relates to. First of all the idle is very low and when cold I have to give it gas, ( but it still doesnt run that well) and after the engine is warmed up it feels and sounds like it is idling better. The engine will also no longer start unless I hold the pedal all the way to the floor which I believe is an indication that the carb is flooded or running to Rich. When the engine is cold it also runs terribly with some smoke coming out which I didn’t used to do, and the choke seems to come off too early now and it doesn’t really seem to go on too much of a high idle. I’m pretty sure all my vacuum leaks have been resolved thanks to all brand new gaskets new brake booster and brake assembly and that it’s simply a matter of adjusting the carb. In your opinion does this sound like the idle mixture of screws are simply set to Rich? I wanted to get peoples opinions before I start tinkering, but I’m inclined to increase the idle speed just a smidge and lean out the mixture a little.In your opinion does this sound like the idle mixture screws are simply set to rich? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 1, 2020 Share Posted May 1, 2020 Hi all, hope you’re all doing well and staying safe! Update; so it was quite a bear to find a shop that was rated well and is familiar with carbureted vehicles, but I found one and they generally work on vehicles even older than mine. However I can’t say they have very nice bedside manner as they clearly have been treating me like a “dumb blonde”. Long story short they rebuilt the carb, egr gaskets, cleaned out sludge from the valley pan and changed fluids, etc. I’ve picked my truck up twice now ( not a good sign) and I continue to have problems with it but I think I would rather try to adjust the carb myself rather than take it back in as they clearly don’t seem to be spending the time or just don’t really care to do the job correctly. I think they did good work but that they simply haven’t really bothered to adjust the carb and that’s what my question relates to. First of all the idle is very low and when cold I have to give it gas, ( but it still doesnt run that well) and after the engine is warmed up it feels and sounds like it is idling better. The engine will also no longer start unless I hold the pedal all the way to the floor which I believe is an indication that the carb is flooded or running to Rich. When the engine is cold it also runs terribly with some smoke coming out which I didn’t used to do, and the choke seems to come off too early now and it doesn’t really seem to go on too much of a high idle. I’m pretty sure all my vacuum leaks have been resolved thanks to all brand new gaskets new brake booster and brake assembly and that it’s simply a matter of adjusting the carb. In your opinion does this sound like the idle mixture of screws are simply set to Rich? I wanted to get peoples opinions before I start tinkering, but I’m inclined to increase the idle speed just a smidge and lean out the mixture a little.In your opinion does this sound like the idle mixture screws are simply set to rich? Thanks. Christopher, I'm really sorry you don't have things sorted yet. A 2150 is a pretty simple and straightforward carburetor too. Not a criticism, but neither Gary or Bill are going to read 'wall of text' posts. Try to have some whitespace, and organize your thoughts, like this: Almost six weeks ago I brought my truck to a shop with a decent reputation for working on older vehicles. They don't seem to have resolved my problems or addressed the reason I brought it to them. They have pulled the intake and replaced a bunch of gaskets. But now my truck won't start unless I hold the throttle wide open. When cold the fast idle won't engage, and it's so rich it smokes. Then the idle seems to come off too soon. I've picked it up -twice- and it's still not driveable. Tired of this runaround and would like your opinions. -------------------------------------------------------- My opinion, given the symptoms you mentioned, is the fast idle cam is not setting. You should only have to press the pedal to the floor *once* to set the choke, maybe stab it a few times if bitter cold. True idle should be set with the engine fully warm and the truck in gear. Instructions are on the vacuum routing diagram attached to the radiator support. Unless you have a tach, or some way of knowing the rpms, don't guess. The fast idle cam may have a few steps or a curve. IDK on your carb. Obviously because you have a C6 the engine can't be idling high enough to pull the truck into an intersection with your foot lightly on the brake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted May 1, 2020 Share Posted May 1, 2020 Hi all, hope you’re all doing well and staying safe! Update; so it was quite a bear to find a shop that was rated well and is familiar with carbureted vehicles, but I found one and they generally work on vehicles even older than mine. However I can’t say they have very nice bedside manner as they clearly have been treating me like a “dumb blonde”. Long story short they rebuilt the carb, egr gaskets, cleaned out sludge from the valley pan and changed fluids, etc. I’ve picked my truck up twice now ( not a good sign) and I continue to have problems with it but I think I would rather try to adjust the carb myself rather than take it back in as they clearly don’t seem to be spending the time or just don’t really care to do the job correctly. I think they did good work but that they simply haven’t really bothered to adjust the carb and that’s what my question relates to. First of all the idle is very low and when cold I have to give it gas, ( but it still doesnt run that well) and after the engine is warmed up it feels and sounds like it is idling better. The engine will also no longer start unless I hold the pedal all the way to the floor which I believe is an indication that the carb is flooded or running to Rich. When the engine is cold it also runs terribly with some smoke coming out which I didn’t used to do, and the choke seems to come off too early now and it doesn’t really seem to go on too much of a high idle. I’m pretty sure all my vacuum leaks have been resolved thanks to all brand new gaskets new brake booster and brake assembly and that it’s simply a matter of adjusting the carb. In your opinion does this sound like the idle mixture of screws are simply set to Rich? I wanted to get peoples opinions before I start tinkering, but I’m inclined to increase the idle speed just a smidge and lean out the mixture a little.In your opinion does this sound like the idle mixture screws are simply set to rich? Thanks. Too bad you are on the left coast. I could probably rebuild a 2150 blindfolded, however, final adjustments have to be done on the engine. Past experience on the 351M/400 engines, the carb was jetted so damn lean from the factory they would barely run. If the carburetor has the small air bleed metering rods and they were disturbed it may take someone with a good combustion analyzer to get it straight again. Choke, there is a vacuum diaphragm on the back right side of the carburetor, it is supposed to pull the choke open a specified distance (I do not have specs older than 1983) to allow the engine to run. On the same side there is a fast idle cam, there is an arrow point stamped on it, with the engine warm and the stop screw on that side against the arrow, the fast idle should be at the rpm specified on the emission label. Other items, vacuum advance not connected, bad or incorrectly connected will cause piss poor running. Idle mixture screws, if you can get a 351M too rich with the factory carb I would love to see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delco1946 Posted May 1, 2020 Author Share Posted May 1, 2020 Christopher, I'm really sorry you don't have things sorted yet. A 2150 is a pretty simple and straightforward carburetor too. Not a criticism, but neither Gary or Bill are going to read 'wall of text' posts. Try to have some whitespace, and organize your thoughts, like this: Almost six weeks ago I brought my truck to a shop with a decent reputation for working on older vehicles. They don't seem to have resolved my problems or addressed the reason I brought it to them. They have pulled the intake and replaced a bunch of gaskets. But now my truck won't start unless I hold the throttle wide open. When cold the fast idle won't engage, and it's so rich it smokes. Then the idle seems to come off too soon. I've picked it up -twice- and it's still not driveable. Tired of this runaround and would like your opinions. -------------------------------------------------------- My opinion, given the symptoms you mentioned, is the fast idle cam is not setting. You should only have to press the pedal to the floor *once* to set the choke, maybe stab it a few times if bitter cold. True idle should be set with the engine fully warm and the truck in gear. Instructions are on the vacuum routing diagram attached to the radiator support. Unless you have a tach, or some way of knowing the rpms, don't guess. The fast idle cam may have a few steps or a curve. IDK on your carb. Obviously because you have a C6 the engine can't be idling high enough to pull the truck into an intersection with your foot lightly on the brake. Sorry and thanks for helping Jim. I appreciate it. The fast idle cam is just used during warm up, correct? How do I interpret having floor it to get it to start? Does it sound like I have that problem, PLUS too rich of a mixture then? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
delco1946 Posted May 1, 2020 Author Share Posted May 1, 2020 Sorry and thanks for helping Jim. I appreciate it. The fast idle cam is just used during warm up, correct? How do I interpret having floor it to get it to start? Does it sound like I have that problem, PLUS too rich of a mixture then? Just saw your post Bill. In theory these guys know their stuff, they practically only work on carb era cars. I shouldn’t have any issues with vacuum, etc as they should have addressed that I would think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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