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carb rebuild prep/tips


delco1946

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So I replaced my spark plugs on Sunday, and while at it I tried to fix a slow drip leak of fuel from the threads of my fuel filter where it screws into the carb body. I succeeded in making it worse and I’m very irritated. It also looked like there was grains of grit past the filter into the opening of the carb which I’m sure is plugging the carb and only helping to build pressure leading to leaking fuel. Also, my engine could be running smoother suggesting that it isn’t getting all enough flow.

At this point I’m ready to just pay someone to rebuild the carb (get the crap out of it), replace the filter (still new), and I guess to be sure this isn't wasted effort have my mechanic drop the gas tanks and clean them out and clear the fuel lines. If I go to this expense/trouble is there anything else I should be doing that I’ve missed?

This filter type seems prone to leaking since its all threads, what about an inline type that isn't mounted to the carb?? Have people had better success with this?

Thanks - Christopher

 

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If it was mine I'd rebuild the carb myself with the instructions on here.

And I'd put the filter on with Teflon tape on the threads, which is a no-no but works if you ensure there's no tape protruding into the cavity where it can get loose. Outside is fine and you can trim it off. But inside is verboten.

Then I'd cut into the fuel line and put a real filter, like one of the plastic see-through ones, ahead of the fuel pump and one behind the fuel pump. Those filters catch far, FAR more than the screw-in filters, which have a screen that might catch sand but not sediment.

Then, if that didn't do it I'd replace the tank(s). New tanks are about $100/ea and you'll pay almost that much for just the labor to remove and reinstall one.

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Then I'd cut into the fuel line and put a real filter, like one of the plastic see-through ones, ahead of the fuel pump and one behind the fuel pump. Those filters catch far, FAR more than the screw-in filters, which have a screen that might catch sand but not sediment.

I like that idea!

What kind of fuel filter can you recommend for this, and where can I purchase a few?

 

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Then I'd cut into the fuel line and put a real filter, like one of the plastic see-through ones, ahead of the fuel pump and one behind the fuel pump. Those filters catch far, FAR more than the screw-in filters, which have a screen that might catch sand but not sediment.

I like that idea!

What kind of fuel filter can you recommend for this, and where can I purchase a few?

I got mine @ NAPA and installed in the middle of the rubber fuel line feeding the fuel pump.

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I got mine @ NAPA and installed in the middle of the rubber fuel line feeding the fuel pump.

Amen, brother! This one from Amazon is a 3/8" so may be too big. Check the line size to see, but a 5/16" may be the right size, and I think this one is 5/16".

Gary,

Before the pump, Ford's of this era used 3/8" feed and 5/16" return.

You can see that in the Dorman applications for their fuel line repair kits.

That said, an 8mm filter seems to feed enough fuel for my 460 and lead foot.

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Thanks, Jim.

When I aged out of emissions inspections I switched from the 4180 to a 600 CFM 0-80457s, to a 750 4160, to the current AVS.

I needed to feed the right side of the carb rather than the left front of the primary float bowl.

An early aughts Nissan Altima fuel filter is 8mm (5/16"), has a right angle outlet and comes with two bits of hose and four high pressure spring clamps.

Allows a tight turn to avoid the water neck, manifold vacuum tree and the rest as it points right at my dual feed fuel log.

IMG_20200206_074536.jpg.566f1badda8c6948965f070224b8e8bc.jpg

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