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1984 F150 Flareside Codename:Buck


84flareside

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Purchased October 2019, truck was advertised on Craigslist, it had sat in a warehouse in Mckeesport, PA for about 20 years, last passed state inspection in 2000.

All the windows were busted out and truck had been treated to a decent amount of graffiti.

Previous owner had done some engine work, small suspension lift, aftermarket grill, and removed smog air pump.

Rust on driverside floor panels, sill, cab corner and quarter panel. Seems like roof of warehouse had a leak directly above driverside.

Seat was covered with saddle blanket, original fabric is great shape.

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Great project Rob! Looks like it is all intact and mostly original under the hood?

If you haven't replaced the windshield yet, heads up that most shops will use the glass for the newer 1987-1996 trucks, and they have a black strip that will hide the VIN on a 1980-1986 truck. It may not matter where you are, but if it does, ask the question about the glass when you buy/order it.

Can't wait to see the progress on this.

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Started with basic maintenance efforts to try and get the truck running. That wasn't succesful, ended up replacing most of the ignition circuit to get it running.

Phase One

Oil/Filter change

Replaced Plugs/wires/dist cap/rotor

Rebuilt Carb/Replaced carb gaskets

Replaced Air Filter

Drained/Refilled coolant

Replaced Rad Hoses/Heater Hoses

Replaced Belts

New Battery

Phase Two

Replaced Starter Relay

Replaced Coil

Replaced Timing Chain/Gasket

Replaced Water pump/Gasket

Replaced Alternator (1G wish I had found this forum first and might have converted to 3G)

Replaced Fuel Pump and added pressure regulator (tried cheap NAPA fuel pump that literally fell apart during install, bought Holley pump and basic Mr Gasket regulator to keep it in recommended pressure range)

Truck ran for about 30 seconds and then I lost the spark.

Phase Three

Replaced EEC

Replaced Distributor

Replaced Voltage Regulator (Should have done at the same time as the alternator)

Now it starts when using starter fluid, idles at about 1100 rpm according to factory tach. It will restart within a few seconds of shutting it off without starter fluid but in the current 35 degree temps it's been requiring starter to get it going, it hesitates and requires a little nudge on the throttle, this is my first carburetor car and I'm not sure exactly what temperatures to expect reliable behavior.

 

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Now it starts when using starter fluid, idles at about 1100 rpm according to factory tach. It will restart within a few seconds of shutting it off without starter fluid but in the current 35 degree temps it's been requiring starter to get it going, it hesitates and requires a little nudge on the throttle, this is my first carburetor car and I'm not sure exactly what temperatures to expect reliable behavior.

Rob,

It took me quite a while to get my '84 302 running decent, but then I pulled it out and did it all over anyway. Mine was idling high also and it ended up being a vacuum leak causing it.

If you need the 1984 Factory Service Manuals I can send them to you via email. I usually use the EVTM right here in Gary's documentation, but for deeper dives I do have the full manuals.

 

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Started with basic maintenance efforts to try and get the truck running. That wasn't succesful, ended up replacing most of the ignition circuit to get it running.

Phase One

Oil/Filter change

Replaced Plugs/wires/dist cap/rotor

Rebuilt Carb/Replaced carb gaskets

Replaced Air Filter

Drained/Refilled coolant

Replaced Rad Hoses/Heater Hoses

Replaced Belts

New Battery

Phase Two

Replaced Starter Relay

Replaced Coil

Replaced Timing Chain/Gasket

Replaced Water pump/Gasket

Replaced Alternator (1G wish I had found this forum first and might have converted to 3G)

Replaced Fuel Pump and added pressure regulator (tried cheap NAPA fuel pump that literally fell apart during install, bought Holley pump and basic Mr Gasket regulator to keep it in recommended pressure range)

Truck ran for about 30 seconds and then I lost the spark.

Phase Three

Replaced EEC

Replaced Distributor

Replaced Voltage Regulator (Should have done at the same time as the alternator)

Now it starts when using starter fluid, idles at about 1100 rpm according to factory tach. It will restart within a few seconds of shutting it off without starter fluid but in the current 35 degree temps it's been requiring starter to get it going, it hesitates and requires a little nudge on the throttle, this is my first carburetor car and I'm not sure exactly what temperatures to expect reliable behavior.

Rob - You've done a huge amount of work. :nabble_anim_claps:

On the issues with starting and running, is the choke closing? Without the it closing you aren't likely to get it started w/o ether.

Next, do you know if the accelerator pump is working? If so, you should see two streams of gas shoot into the carb when you briskly open the throttle. (But do this with the engine off.)

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Rob - You've done a huge amount of work. :nabble_anim_claps:

On the issues with starting and running, is the choke closing? Without the it closing you aren't likely to get it started w/o ether.

Next, do you know if the accelerator pump is working? If so, you should see two streams of gas shoot into the carb when you briskly open the throttle. (But do this with the engine off.)

Yes, I do see fuel spray into the barrels of the carburetor when I hit the throttle. It doesn't seem like the choke closes, I've played around the adjustments for the choke but I wouldn't be surprised if I made a mistake in my carb rebuild with the choke linkage or have made a mistake in my adjustments. I've been debating on just ordering a rebuilt carb and starting over at that end.

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Yes, I do see fuel spray into the barrels of the carburetor when I hit the throttle. It doesn't seem like the choke closes, I've played around the adjustments for the choke but I wouldn't be surprised if I made a mistake in my carb rebuild with the choke linkage or have made a mistake in my adjustments. I've been debating on just ordering a rebuilt carb and starting over at that end.

Rob, are you sure you got the pin of the choke linkage into the loop in the end of the coil spring?.

Does the choke plate return to position from both directions?

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Rob, are you sure you got the pin of the choke linkage into the loop in the end of the coil spring?.

Does the choke plate return to position from both directions?

Jim is onto something there. That could easily do it. And w/o the choke closing you won't get it to start w/o ether.

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Jim is onto something there. That could easily do it. And w/o the choke closing you won't get it to start w/o ether.

Thanks for the guidance, got it started today without ether after some choke adjustments and creative throttle solenoid adjustment. The throttle solenoid isn't doing anything so I had to adjust the it to just keep a little pressure on the throttle, not sure if this is problematic? Can't seem to find a place to buy a solenoid. After letting it warm up completely for the first time in 20 years, the exhaust started out a little smoky but it cleared out after about 30 minutes. Found out after it warmed up that I've got an issue with the heater core, so that's the next project.

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