Frame rust, Line-X and undercoating

[RenoHuskerDu]

I've used very similar 'rust converters' on static structures.

But again, I want to get RID of oxides, not turn them to a different oxide (Fe3O4) and I don't want anything resilient and water based (Latex) that has surface tension -that rust can get, and travel under.

,

Wrought iron patio furniture is not a truck frame, so I can't speak to magchloride exposure.

These products do have their place.

Seems I shot myself in the foot already. I Bin Readin on rust converters; all require oil-free surface. I've doused this truck liberally with ATF/Acetone mix in order to get nuts and bolts free. Had to go buy a 3/4" impact driver and sockets just to get the lug nuts loose, for example. I doused the leaf packs in anticipation of pulling out a leaf or two for better ride. I doused the airbag perches to R&R, as they got bent from using the boom off to one side, with no outriggers on the truck (I removed the crane).

So I could either

1) attempt a fastidious degreasing op on what is essentially a porous media (rust)

2) or consider using an dinosaur-based rust resistant undercoating instead

Because this is Central Texas, and despite the Grand Solar Minimum we are predominantly dry and entirely salt-free, I'm leaning heavily towards option 2. Flying gravel from our country driveways would also pose less risk to a thick wax/petro coating than to converted rust aka Fe2O3.

My leading candidate now is CRC 06026 Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor in rattle cans. https://tinyurl.com/yxxngbj8

What do you guys recommend? Keep in mind that it's a work truck to haul a heavy trailer to the gravel quarry and build driveways. It's not a restoration project. Just a daily work driver.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Seems I shot myself in the foot already. I Bin Readin on rust converters; all require oil-free surface. I've doused this truck liberally with ATF/Acetone mix in order to get nuts and bolts free. Had to go buy a 3/4" impact driver and sockets just to get the lug nuts loose, for example. I doused the leaf packs in anticipation of pulling out a leaf or two for better ride. I doused the airbag perches to R&R, as they got bent from using the boom off to one side, with no outriggers on the truck (I removed the crane).

So I could either

1) attempt a fastidious degreasing op on what is essentially a porous media (rust)

2) or consider using an dinosaur-based rust resistant undercoating instead

Because this is Central Texas, and despite the Grand Solar Minimum we are predominantly dry and entirely salt-free, I'm leaning heavily towards option 2. Flying gravel from our country driveways would also pose less risk to a thick wax/petro coating than to converted rust aka Fe2O3.

My leading candidate now is CRC 06026 Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor in rattle cans. https://tinyurl.com/yxxngbj8

What do you guys recommend? Keep in mind that it's a work truck to haul a heavy trailer to the gravel quarry and build driveways. It's not a restoration project. Just a daily work driver.

I'd imagine if you're dry and don't have salt, rust isn't really an issue.

I think I'd be more concerned with getting all that abrasive rock dust stuck to and between everything under the truck.

That said, beeswax and linseed oil is pretty popular around here

[RenoHuskerDu]

I'd imagine if you're dry and don't have salt, rust isn't really an issue.

I think I'd be more concerned with getting all that abrasive rock dust stuck to and between everything under the truck.

That said, beeswax and linseed oil is pretty popular around here

> beeswax and linseed oil is pretty popular around here

Tried finding you on the Bullnose map but apparently I'm in the fail army.

Whereabouts do you hail from?

[Gary Lewis]

Tried finding you on the Bullnose map but apparently I'm in the fail army.

Whereabouts do you hail from?

Finding people would be a neat feature. I'll put it on the list.

[ArdWrknTrk]

> beeswax and linseed oil is pretty popular around here

Tried finding you on the Bullnose map but apparently I'm in the fail army.

Whereabouts do you hail from?

I'm in SW Connecticut about 45 miles north of Manhattan.

The 'toe' of the state.

I'm old enough to remember rock salt mixed with ash, and sometimes 3/8 gravel.

Now we see a LOT of magnesium chloride brine put down as 'pretreatment' and straight salt during the snowfall.

[PetesPonies]

Master Series Silver is the material to use. It bonds as well on rusted material as it does on clean materiel. It is a moisture cured primer. You will not be disappointed.

[RenoHuskerDu]

Master Series Silver is the material to use. It bonds as well on rusted material as it does on clean materiel. It is a moisture cured primer. You will not be disappointed.

That Masterseries Silver is a demanding woman, as it were

http://masterseriesct.com/page4.html

[Danny G]

I was actually able to blast off most of the scale from the frame where the rust was worst, up high under the bed in the back where it was nearly impossible to rinse off the magnesium chloride from Iowa winters.. The pressure washer just peeled it off. I also removed my outer wheels and took a look at what's on the insides of the dualies. There's rust there also. I'm looking at Corroseal now as the best choice for me. I'm wondering whether or not it's suitable to use on wheels where there could be some flex that might cause it to chip or crack.

Who has used Corroseal and is satisfied with it, or unhappy ?

Ive used coroseal in my truck. It converts rust to black magnatite (Fe3O4) and seals/primes the surface for paint.

Lessons learned... spray it and do it twice. It works really well but if you brush it on or roll it any little hole that is not covered will begin to rust again. You need to make sure you have more of any rust converter than rust. Simple chemistry states if you uses up all of your converter and still have rust left your screwed. You need to use this this stuff liberally, but doing so with a brush will leave stroke marks (again it is a primer).

So if you don't have enough on you may have to do another go with the coroseal if you see brown creeping up. I had to do a couple touch ups. You also have to wait for it to cure up before continuing where using phosphoric acid to do the conversion your going to be good to go pretty quick.

Coroseal also has heat limitations so using it near exhaust may have its issues.

[Danny G]

Seems I shot myself in the foot already. I Bin Readin on rust converters; all require oil-free surface. I've doused this truck liberally with ATF/Acetone mix in order to get nuts and bolts free. Had to go buy a 3/4" impact driver and sockets just to get the lug nuts loose, for example. I doused the leaf packs in anticipation of pulling out a leaf or two for better ride. I doused the airbag perches to R&R, as they got bent from using the boom off to one side, with no outriggers on the truck (I removed the crane).

So I could either

1) attempt a fastidious degreasing op on what is essentially a porous media (rust)

2) or consider using an dinosaur-based rust resistant undercoating instead

Because this is Central Texas, and despite the Grand Solar Minimum we are predominantly dry and entirely salt-free, I'm leaning heavily towards option 2. Flying gravel from our country driveways would also pose less risk to a thick wax/petro coating than to converted rust aka Fe2O3.

My leading candidate now is CRC 06026 Heavy Duty Corrosion Inhibitor in rattle cans. https://tinyurl.com/yxxngbj8

What do you guys recommend? Keep in mind that it's a work truck to haul a heavy trailer to the gravel quarry and build driveways. It's not a restoration project. Just a daily work driver.

Use a heavy degreaser like super clean to take that film of and go.

I actually cleaned up mine with mineral spirits followed by DNA.

[Gary Lewis]

Tried finding you on the Bullnose map but apparently I'm in the fail army.

Turns out you can search the map page for people. I've added this text to the page:

There are couple of features of the map that aren't intuitively obvious. On the left in the top bar is a button that lets you display the names of the members, and then you can click on a name and be taken directly to that person's general area. Or, having clicked on that button you can search for a member. To do that hit Control & F at the same time to bring up the search function and then type in the member's name you are looking for and hit Enter.

Does that make sense?