1982 F100 Project

[FuzzFace2]

Hey Dave,

here is a photo of the tag:

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n48747/doorTag.png

Your right about the 5x5.5 pattern and not having power brakes. No power steering either. There is a shop pretty close to my house with a 351w with 148k miles out of an Ecoline for $500. There is a 30 day warranty and a video of it running. I am leaning towards getting this motor and trying to get it in as soon as possible.

Hey Shaun,

I have the original radiator but based on old thread I was planning on changing it out with a v8 radiator. Anything I should watch out for here?

Thanks for all the replies.

On the wheel pattern that is what I found between my 2 trucks, 1 had power brakes the other did not (5x4.5 pattern).

I also found the 5x5.5 had the larger kingpins, they came in 2 sizes for 80-83? trucks so the beams on out as a whole do swap but parts between them do not, ask how I know

No power steering also, don't know if I have see one without power steering.

I would think it would be easy enough to get a power box, the drag link as it may be different and maybe the lower part of the steering shaft too? You could use the pump that comes on the v8 you get.

$500 for a running motor I guess is not bad. Is that from carb to oil pan and all the stuff on the front of the motor, P/S pump, alt, AC if it had it and the brackets for all this?

Only think you need to watch for is the sump on the oil pan if it is in the right place, front/rear, for the truck. Being it came from a van you may be ok.

With a 30 day return you would need to get it running pretty quickly. Could you come up with the flywheel & clutch parts and reuse your trans to get it on the street before the 30 days?

I see the trans is listed as a 4sp OD Clark (SROD) not a great trans but should be ok with the v8 as they did come with them IIRC.

I cant make out the rear axle code so don't know the ratio but guessing it is a 9" Ford as both of my 81's were.

Dave ----

[FuzzFace2]

How can you tell the size radiator from the pictures he posted?

AFAIK the support openings come in 2 sizes small for non-AC trucks and large for AC trucks.

Both of my trucks were 300 six trucks but 1 had AC (large opening) and the other did not (small opening).

The only other was for diesel IIRC.

Dave just helped me remember that my truck was a non a/c w/ 300 six which explains the small radiator.

As far as how I can tell, you can see that his upper mount was on the inner position based on the discoloration, which means he has the smaller radiator and support.

:nabble_smiley_good:I did see that also but was thinking I might have missed something.

As you can see and you did, the supports are set up to use either top mount and I think the bottom is the same way, just move the mounts to the outer holes, cut the opening larger and bolt it in.

Dave ----

 

[salans7]

As you can see and you did, the supports are set up to use either top mount and I think the bottom is the same way, just move the mounts to the outer holes, cut the opening larger and bolt it in.

Dave ----

Yep, bottom also has two sets of mounting spots for the radiator.

[Danny G]

Careful, the cast iron SMOD version of that trans was beefed up for the 351 use.

The aluminum SROD was not and was from what I understand rated at like 200hp max. Also need to consider the 300 has a lower torque curve than the 351 so you will be in a higher gear when you hit peak torque.

Keep a look out for a donor maybe? That way you get trans and engine at the same time. The caveat to this is... you could ride the trans till it dies behind a 351.

Also you can bolt tremec trannys to that bell housing which should give you more options say if you want to drop in a T5 or something.

[Alex Guenther]

Careful, the cast iron SMOD version of that trans was beefed up for the 351 use.

The aluminum SROD was not and was from what I understand rated at like 200hp max. Also need to consider the 300 has a lower torque curve than the 351 so you will be in a higher gear when you hit peak torque.

Keep a look out for a donor maybe? That way you get trans and engine at the same time. The caveat to this is... you could ride the trans till it dies behind a 351.

Also you can bolt tremec trannys to that bell housing which should give you more options say if you want to drop in a T5 or something.

Thanks Scratch,

I have been looking at what it would take to swap out my SROD for an SMOD. Thanks for the donor suggestion, I am keeping an eye out and my brother in law goes to a lot of auctions so he has a lot of experience. I would like to keep a manual and most of the stuff we have come by so far is automatic.

Do you have any experience with the SMOD? The other swaps mentioned seem a little intimidating ie srod to T5 or mazda 5 speed and I hoping to find the path of least resistance.

Thanks.

[Danny G]

Thanks Scratch,

I have been looking at what it would take to swap out my SROD for an SMOD. Thanks for the donor suggestion, I am keeping an eye out and my brother in law goes to a lot of auctions so he has a lot of experience. I would like to keep a manual and most of the stuff we have come by so far is automatic.

Do you have any experience with the SMOD? The other swaps mentioned seem a little intimidating ie srod to T5 or mazda 5 speed and I hoping to find the path of least resistance.

Thanks.

I don't unfortunately, while I have some knowledge from lots of research, and family/friends in the business, my hands on experience is lacking and I am here to learn just as much as the next guy. BUT there is a ton of expertise between the other guys here.

From my understanding all the engines will take the same bell housings between the 300, 302, and 351. With that you get a good spread of transmission options and the ZF5 is a popular swap because it is a stout transmission, fully synchronized, manual, and has OD. The M5OD is a 5 speed with OD but is a lighter duty transmission probably more suited for a 300 or 302 not used for heavy work.

Here are a few reads I found.

M5OD searchs

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/842730-m5od-anygood-behind-a-351w.html

SMOD Searches

http://www.f150hub.com/trans/t170-smod-srod-tod.html

https://fordification.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=73637

ZF5 Searches.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/935425-zf-5-to-351w.html

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/970691-zf5-swap-into-an-inline-6-f150.html

https://www.f150forum.com/f10/details-zf-manual-transmission-swap-121866/

[Alex Guenther]

Thanks Scratch, I have been looking at what it would take to swap out my SROD for an SMOD. Thanks for the donor suggestion, I am keeping an eye out and my brother in law goes to a lot of auctions so he has a lot of experience. I would like to keep a manual and most of the stuff we have come by so far is automatic. Do you have any experience with the SMOD? The other swaps mentioned seem a little intimidating ie srod to T5 or mazda 5 speed and I hoping to find the path of least resistance. Thanks.

I don't unfortunately, while I have some knowledge from lots of research, and family/friends in the business, my hands on experience is lacking and I am here to learn just as much as the next guy. BUT there is a ton of expertise between the other guys here.From my understanding all the engines will take the same bell housings between the 300, 302, and 351. With that you get a good spread of transmission options and the ZF5 is a popular swap because it is a stout transmission, fully synchronized, manual, and has OD. The M5OD is a 5 speed with OD but is a lighter duty transmission probably more suited for a 300 or 302 not used for heavy work.Here are a few reads I found.M5OD searchshttps://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/842730-m5od-anygood-behind-a-351w.htmlSMOD Searcheshttp://www.f150hub.com/trans/t170-smod-srod-tod.htmlhttps://fordification.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=73637ZF5 Searches.https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/935425-zf-5-to-351w.htmlhttps://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/970691-zf5-swap-into-an-inline-6-f150.htmlhttps://www.f150forum.com/f10/details-zf-manual-transmission-swap-121866/

Thank you sir!  

 

This site has been a real wealth of knowledge and very welcoming.  I've enjoyed getting this far into the project and can't wait to continue.  

 

 

On Fri, Jan 24, 2020, 5:05 PM TheScatch [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote:

 

 

 

[Gary Lewis]

I don't unfortunately, while I have some knowledge from lots of research, and family/friends in the business, my hands on experience is lacking and I am here to learn just as much as the next guy. BUT there is a ton of expertise between the other guys here.

Don't sell yourself short. You are one of the experts.

[Alex Guenther]

Update

Just wanted to post some progress I've made in the last couple weeks since my initial post. After exploring all sorts of options, I did pull the trigger on a 302 out of a 76 bronco with an 87 block. I was looking for a 351 but this already was setup for a carb and had a carb and 2 distributors included with the purchase so it was easier on the budget.

Engine

Previous owner did tell me there was low compression in cylinder 1 and 2 so he suspected a head gasket but oil pressure and other cylinders tested out good. He, like myself, is a first time project owner and opted to go with a crate engine rather than mess with the engine. Enjoyed getting to meet someone else in the beginner boat and it was nice to share what we have learned so far.

Shot of carb and distributor

First Look Inside

I am using my Haynes and Rebuilding Small Block Ford books to walk through the teardown so far and from what I understand the picture shows we have a roller cam. This would make sense since the PO also told me when he had the distributor changed out they found it was on a 351 firing order.

Got the heads off and found the leak between cylinders 1 and 2.

I believe cylinder 5 also had a bad head gasket because I could make out some coolant in the cylinder.

Next Steps

The rebuilding small block ford book, recommended just removing and installing cylinder heads as a best practice so I wanted to check with other people's experience. The valve compression tools online don't look too expensive so I am willing to try it but thought I should hear if it's worth it.

I also got a transmission, NP435, which was not one I was looking to get but it was really cheap and I really want to get on the road for as little as possible and chart the rest of the project from there.

Thanks for all the help so far.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Update

Just wanted to post some progress I've made in the last couple weeks since my initial post. After exploring all sorts of options, I did pull the trigger on a 302 out of a 76 bronco with an 87 block. I was looking for a 351 but this already was setup for a carb and had a carb and 2 distributors included with the purchase so it was easier on the budget.

Engine

Previous owner did tell me there was low compression in cylinder 1 and 2 so he suspected a head gasket but oil pressure and other cylinders tested out good. He, like myself, is a first time project owner and opted to go with a crate engine rather than mess with the engine. Enjoyed getting to meet someone else in the beginner boat and it was nice to share what we have learned so far.

Shot of carb and distributor

First Look Inside

I am using my Haynes and Rebuilding Small Block Ford books to walk through the teardown so far and from what I understand the picture shows we have a roller cam. This would make sense since the PO also told me when he had the distributor changed out they found it was on a 351 firing order.

Got the heads off and found the leak between cylinders 1 and 2.

I believe cylinder 5 also had a bad head gasket because I could make out some coolant in the cylinder.

Next Steps

The rebuilding small block ford book, recommended just removing and installing cylinder heads as a best practice so I wanted to check with other people's experience. The valve compression tools online don't look too expensive so I am willing to try it but thought I should hear if it's worth it.

I also got a transmission, NP435, which was not one I was looking to get but it was really cheap and I really want to get on the road for as little as possible and chart the rest of the project from there.

Thanks for all the help so far.

I like your plan. And if you've already found head gasket leaks, you are on the right path.

Speaking of path, I hope to scan the factory shop manual's section on the 302 tomorrow and get it up on the website. I'd trust that more than the other books for things like torque specs. But the other books assume you know less than the FSM does, so that's good.

As for the heads, it is a crap shoot regarding whether to have them gone through or just install them. I've always gone the safe route, meaning had them gone through. But that is expensive and you don't know that there are problems with the heads.

I don't really know what to tell you. If you put them on you may then discover a valve is burned. But maybe not. However, it is lots easier to have the work done now than after you've installed the engine.