ArdWrknTrk Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 - deleted - He may have to back it off just to get the drums off. If the drums are worn and the lip won't get past the shoes. I guess I should have said "adjusting the cable won't have any effect on the braking ability of the rear". The wheel cylinders have only so much stroke, and without adjusting the shoes at the bottom, the wheel cylinder can't do its job before topping out or actually popping out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old55pete Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 He may have to back it off just to get the drums off. If the drums are worn and the lip won't get past the shoes. I guess I should have said "adjusting the cable won't have any effect on the braking ability of the rear". The wheel cylinders have only so much stroke, and without adjusting the shoes at the bottom, the wheel cylinder can't do its job before topping out or actually popping out! - deleted - Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 Sam, while this addresses the opposite problem -dragging- you may find it helpful in understanding how all the parts work together. https://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-resources/brakes-and-brake-components/ford-light-truck-rear-drum-installation-problems-severe-brake-drag/ And this: https://www.knowyourparts.com/technical-resources/brakes-and-brake-components/importance-drum-brake-self-adjusters/ Adjusting the cable will help if it is visibly slack on the drivers side frame tail, and the pedal goes to the floor with almost no resistance. It doesn't adjust your brakes at all, just the slack in the cable.... Definitely listen to these guys. When I got my 80 the cable had frayed so the PO used some wire rope clips and a short piece of cable to tie it all together. This caused it to be too long and the pedal bottomed out before engaging the brakes. I also had to pull the pedal back up part of the way. Unless something obvious like that shows up under there, these guys are right that it's time to pull the drums. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 Definitely listen to these guys. When I got my 80 the cable had frayed so the PO used some wire rope clips and a short piece of cable to tie it all together. This caused it to be too long and the pedal bottomed out before engaging the brakes. I also had to pull the pedal back up part of the way. Unless something obvious like that shows up under there, these guys are right that it's time to pull the drums. Scott, was the clock spring in the pedal assembly itself broken or missing? I'd think the e-brake should be able to return the pedal, even with the cable cut clean through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swampedout Posted January 18, 2020 Author Share Posted January 18, 2020 - deleted - Ah I see. Jim and Steve, thank you for clarifying. I know the most thorough course of action would be to remove the drums. Maybe i will do that next weekend. I was thinking Id try adjusting the star wheel but if I risk shooting out all the hardware in there, thats probably not a good idea. Now Im really glad I asked! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 Ah I see. Jim and Steve, thank you for clarifying. I know the most thorough course of action would be to remove the drums. Maybe i will do that next weekend. I was thinking Id try adjusting the star wheel but if I risk shooting out all the hardware in there, thats probably not a good idea. Now Im really glad I asked! You're not likely to "shoot out the hardware".. The wheel cylinder piston can pop out if the shoes are WAY out of adjustment -and- the residual pressure check valve is gummed up and keeping it on top of its stroke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 Scott, was the clock spring in the pedal assembly itself broken or missing? I'd think the e-brake should be able to return the pedal, even with the cable cut clean through. I didn't think there was a return spring in the pedal assembly besides the handle one. I thought it was the springs in the drums on the cable that returned it? With that 80 it's possible something else is amiss. I've just been carrying around a short 4x4 on the flatbed that I throw in front/behind the tired when I get out so haven't tried the pedal in a long time:nabble_smiley_beam: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 18, 2020 Share Posted January 18, 2020 I didn't think there was a return spring in the pedal assembly besides the handle one. I thought it was the springs in the drums on the cable that returned it? With that 80 it's possible something else is amiss. I've just been carrying around a short 4x4 on the flatbed that I throw in front/behind the tired when I get out so haven't tried the pedal in a long time:nabble_smiley_beam: You know Scott, that may be one of the 'improvements' of my Bricknose parking brake assembly over the Bullnose one. I know they interchange, but have different part numbers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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