Norcalbullnose Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 So here she is, my $500 facebook find. 460( 7.5) 4 speed, not sure if t18 or 19, 4x4. The story behind her that I've been told is I am the 4th owner. She has 225k miles or so I'm told. It's not in horrible condition just a few things need to be touched up to get her to smog. My current list is: 1, tuning up the carb. Before I took it off it had a few problems. The guy I bought it from claimed to have done a rebuild but he put it together horribly, it was missing the idle screw and a whole bunch of other things. I have attempted to put a manual choke on it but it doesnt seem to fit so I'm just going to try to make it as factory as possible to give me the highest chance of passing. The second main problem would be it has no smog pump and all the vacuum lines are either completely missing or not correctly hooked up or just old and rotted. I'm assuming that is just as easy as following the diagram under hood which is here I am assuming by it saying "non catalyst " that means I dont need a catalytic converter but that bring me to the third issue which is the exhaust. It's there but it has some bad leaks. The whole manifold is tore up and has cut me a few times so I want to go with a whole new exhaust. I'm okay with that but I have a question also. I read somewhere that the 460's available in motorhomes didnt have the air injection in the exhaust but it was in the manifold? Or somewhere I domt remember exactly. And this meant that In Ca since the air wasnt injected into the manifold, you could run headers. Is there a way to convert mine to that so that I can have headers or do I just stick with the stock manifold. I'm assuming I cant but you never know. Anyways that's about all that is wrong with it so far besides the radio not working but that doesnt matter to me as much as driving it. If anyone can give suggestions or help it would be greatly appreciated. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 It should be a T-19 (PTO door on both sides) You ***could*** have the super deep 6.32:1 first gear too! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norcalbullnose Posted January 14, 2020 Author Share Posted January 14, 2020 This is what I have taken so far I will add more as soon as I take more Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norcalbullnose Posted January 14, 2020 Author Share Posted January 14, 2020 It should be a T-19 (PTO door on both sides) You ***could*** have the super deep 6.32:1 first gear too! Aw sweet that is what I was hoping for that makes me more excited now Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 Edit; Aaaaand, you post a batch of pics while I was replying! .... Even without a Cat the 460 had air injection to the manifolds. F53's and medium duty trucks probably didn't need it. And although I don't know, I'm willing to bet you need the AIR pump(s) to pass. That looks like a Gordian knot over by the DuraSpark box, and I've never seen the plug on the passenger valve cover. Can you check what color plastic the grommet is on the ignition module? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 14, 2020 Share Posted January 14, 2020 It should be a T-19 (PTO door on both sides) You ***could*** have the super deep 6.32:1 first gear too! My understanding is that the T-19's behind a 460 had a 5.11 first gear. That's what Big Blue's T-19 has, but I'd really be interested in what your first gear is as there is some confusion in this area. But, let's wait until you get a few of the layers of the onion peeled before we worry about that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norcalbullnose Posted January 15, 2020 Author Share Posted January 15, 2020 I think the way I want to go at it would be rebuilding the carb first to factory spec then vaccum lines etc., would the rebuild kit offered by holley(3-1346) be the correct one to use? And what do I do as far as choke? Would the electric choke kit offered by holley work or is it more specific? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 I think the way I want to go at it would be rebuilding the carb first to factory spec then vaccum lines etc., would the rebuild kit offered by holley(3-1346) be the correct one to use? And what do I do as far as choke? Would the electric choke kit offered by holley work or is it more specific? That kit IS correct, but remember there are optional parts and gaskets in there for governed and/or marine carbs. I've done a bunch of these, but none since '16 when I passed the 30 year inspection cutoff here in CT. I could try to find my notes, but I'm sure Bill Voss has more details than I can even remember. If you have the stock intake and the EGR plate marked E4HE 9A589 DA you should get the updated pink rubber gasket available from Ford, E8TZ-9447-A / CG-536-B Motorcraft number. I know I've posted this part number on FTE, as I gave away quite a few from my package. Also check your timing chain and EGR. Either one will cause rich and rough idle. But with your engine revving high I would start with vacuum leaks. If you cannot pull enough vacuum to keep the powervalve closed you need to resolve that FIRST. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 I think the way I want to go at it would be rebuilding the carb first to factory spec then vaccum lines etc., would the rebuild kit offered by holley(3-1346) be the correct one to use? And what do I do as far as choke? Would the electric choke kit offered by holley work or is it more specific? I didn't address the electric choke.. Ford used stator power from the alternator to open the choke. This reads only about 7 DCV and the Motorcraft cap has a single bullet connector for this single black & white wire. The Holley xx-125(?) kit has two spade terminals and works best on 12V. There's also an internal vacuum port on the 4180 that I don't know exists, or lines up with the regular Holley electric choke kit. Bill probably has the answers to all these concerns. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted January 15, 2020 Share Posted January 15, 2020 Finding a crew cab bullnose seems like a unicorn feet especially at $500! Nice find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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