Oil Rec

[ArdWrknTrk]

Trucked was just parked and stopped using it. I have pulled plugs and turned motor by hand. Oil looks really good and at good level. I am prepping to run for a minute or so but thought I should change oil and filter before but sounds like I should leave it alone now. Where do I disconnect fuel line to and “connect” to gas can? A major problem I have is that all 4 tires have dry rotted and sitting on rims so I have no room to access under truck . I am also trying to figure out where the fuel enters carb and where filter is located. I don’t have the truck at my house so I can’t just look whenever but it’s not far away.

Why is it necessary to run without coolant? Radiator is full and looks green.

Thanks

Jeremy

If it has coolant in then great but some of the cars or trucks you come across that have been sitting for a bit you want to put as little dollars into it to hear it run before sinking a lot of money into it.

That is why I said you don't need coolant just to hear it run to know all is good.

Same with the oil, if it has good level and looks somewhat good then use it to hear it run.

If you have coolant in it you can run it as long as you want, you have gas and it don't over heat or have an issue running.

Good luck

Dave ----

I agree with Dave.

The oil and coolant didn't go bad just sitting.

One thing I probably would do is pull the distributor and use a hex shaft to prime the engine with oil before starting.

Oil is clingy, but after sitting that long it's not likely there is any left on the internals.

If you can remove a valve cover and see that oil pouring all over the rockers and valve springs that's even better.

You'll need a strong slow speed drill..

Once you feel the pressure just run it for a full minute (or more)

[hubcityford]

That's a loaded question. And it is an area for caution. If there's a lot of sludge in the engine an aggressive, high-detergent oil might strip it out and clog the oil pickup, starving the engine for oil, which could cause damage.

I think the best approach would be to pull a valve cover and ascertain the level of sludge in it and on the head. If you don't have a lot then go for an oil that will clean things up quickly. But if you do have a lot of sludge then you need to proceed with caution. And one approach would be to use fresh oil that will clean, but don't go for a drive so if the oil pressure starts dropping you can shut the engine off quickly.

But in any case, I would pull the plugs and lube the cylinders with oil and turn the engine over gently by hand with a wrench on the crank bolt. Then, after re-installing the plugs, I'd pull the distributor and spin the oil pump until I got pressure on the gauge. That will ensure oil has gotten to all of the bearings.

Is pulling the distributor a simple task? Remove bolts and lift or is it more complicated? When looking for previous posts there is nothing outlining removal. When reading some posts regarding distributors it seems like this needs special attention. Am I overthinking this or are there special steps?

Jeremy

[Gary Lewis]

Is pulling the distributor a simple task? Remove bolts and lift or is it more complicated? When looking for previous posts there is nothing outlining removal. When reading some posts regarding distributors it seems like this needs special attention. Am I overthinking this or are there special steps?

Jeremy

Jeremy - Pulling it is a simple task. But replacing it isn't unless you take care to start with.

Assuming that the timing is set correctly at present, mark where the body hits the block as well as where the rotor points to the housing. As you pull the distributor up the rotor will rotate because the gear is angled, so you have to mark before you pull. Then, if it were me, I'd mark where the rotor points as the distributor comes out since that is your starting point going back in.

So, when going back in you want to end up with the body/block marks matching and the rotor pointing at the same point on the housing.

And when you reach down with a long extension and a 5/16", I think, socket to turn the oil pump, you want to make SURE that nothing falls off. So tape the socket to the extension.

I think, with strong emphasis on think, that you want to rotate the oil pump counter-clockwise. But I'm not sure of that. And you want to go fairly slowly. It'll take a while to get the oil flowing, and when it finally does you'll know it as the drill or driver will bog down.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Jeremy - Pulling it is a simple task. But replacing it isn't unless you take care to start with.

Assuming that the timing is set correctly at present, mark where the body hits the block as well as where the rotor points to the housing. As you pull the distributor up the rotor will rotate because the gear is angled, so you have to mark before you pull. Then, if it were me, I'd mark where the rotor points as the distributor comes out since that is your starting point going back in.

So, when going back in you want to end up with the body/block marks matching and the rotor pointing at the same point on the housing.

And when you reach down with a long extension and a 5/16", I think, socket to turn the oil pump, you want to make SURE that nothing falls off. So tape the socket to the extension.

I think, with strong emphasis on think, that you want to rotate the oil pump counter-clockwise. But I'm not sure of that. And you want to go fairly slowly. It'll take a while to get the oil flowing, and when it finally does you'll know it as the drill or driver will bog down.

Good explanation Gary.

I think the shaft would be 1/4" (given that 302's are 1/4 and 351's are 5/16)

But I have never seen, let alone dealt with a 255.

1/4 hex is much easier.

LOTS of driver extensions for impact tools available.

No socket to fall off.