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What's The Trick With Deutsch Connectors


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Well, I proved today that I don't know how to install Deutsch connectors. My neighbor and I've been installing additional KC Highliters on his Jimmy. He ordered 5 KC's, but only the wiring harnesses for 4 of them. But they use a Deutsch 2-pin connector, so I had the brilliant idea of ordering in another connector from Amazon - the ones shown below.

But I don't have the correct crimping tool for those pins, so I tinned the wire, did my best crimping with pliers, and then soldered them. And they didn't want to go into the shell.

So, how are these supposed to be crimped?

41rl6SmE10L.jpg.f99797134dfe692425e090353341601d.jpg

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I have to check my post but I did do some of these.

Its a double crimp. the small one grabs the wire, the large part grabs the jacket.

*EDIT* just in case the tabs are different, the one closest to the pin (middle) grabs the wire and the one closest to the wire (end tab) grabs the jacket.

The crimper for these bends the tabs and curls them in. A lot of people then seal the end with solder giving more electrical contact area as the contact is just made by the tabs.

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I have to check my post but I did do some of these.

Its a double crimp. the small one grabs the wire, the large part grabs the jacket.

*EDIT* just in case the tabs are different, the one closest to the pin (middle) grabs the wire and the one closest to the wire (end tab) grabs the jacket.

The crimper for these bends the tabs and curls them in. A lot of people then seal the end with solder giving more electrical contact area as the contact is just made by the tabs.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/Wire-Crimping-swaging-tools-td42028.html#a42347

I called it a wedgelock, same style

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Thought of one more thing. They also should lock into place, that's what the little rib is for. To remove them you need a removal tool. if the clearances look good it could be just a hard seat. Some also use an installation tool that actuates the lock. Not sure how your connector is set up without putting hands on it, but its food for thought.
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All that is out the window if you just have the round barrel type contacts. They need a special crimper that has 4 pins that compress the barrel. This is the style we use in aviation, and except our tools use turret heads and DMC crimpers.

By "round barrel type" do you mean the ones in the pic to the right, below? Mine don't have the flaired latches like those in your pic, to the left. So you are saying they need a special crimper?

crimp.png.ac0a77e3f1bf4b963a76aeeadda90cde.png41rl6SmE10L.jpg.784a9fb5baa1cb484a1245ab25d417a5.jpg

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By "round barrel type" do you mean the ones in the pic to the right, below? Mine don't have the flaired latches like those in your pic, to the left. So you are saying they need a special crimper?

No Gary, it's like a collet.

I have the actual Deutsch D-sub tool.

Usually I grip the pin in the tool then insert the wire in the pin, and squeeze.

Seems easier for me that way.

https://www.amazon.com/Deutsch-Closed-Barrel-Crimper-Ratcheting-Action/dp/B01N3P2S17/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

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No Gary, it's like a collet.

I have the actual Deutsch D-sub tool.

Usually I grip the pin in the tool then insert the wire in the pin, and squeeze.

Seems easier for me that way.

https://www.amazon.com/Deutsch-Closed-Barrel-Crimper-Ratcheting-Action/dp/B01N3P2S17/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Jim - That makes sense. A collet-style crimp would put the proper bends in the pin to allow it to go into the connector and lock in. That's what the pins wouldn't do when I crimped them with a pair of pliers.

Thanks!

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By "round barrel type" do you mean the ones in the pic to the right, below? Mine don't have the flaired latches like those in your pic, to the left. So you are saying they need a special crimper?

The pictures you quoted are the type that have two sets of tabs to grab the wire and the jacket. The flares are not important for the crimp aspect. Its the same type of crimp just a different pin.

I found another picture of the type here. Marked "W" for the part that grips conductor and "J" for the one that grips the jacket.

pin.png.a99923c91de9f4024668ddc84cf77796.png

crimped.png.8e8bc42d7a7d362b284393dc65d2942c.png

The one that uses the other crimper I was talking about or the barrel style looks like this:

pin1.png.0c5a9f309286d8ac158c6a39722bdc05.png

its crimped by a crimper like this:

barrel1.png.f7de4367d758bc9eaa7ef5d46087b419.png

and final product will look like this:

barrel2.png.f7171a84dcaf0a3a7498946e3f95f626.png

if your crimp looks like either of those, and still doesn't go in, check the connector to make sure there inst a locking mechanism blocking you.

 

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The pictures you quoted are the type that have two sets of tabs to grab the wire and the jacket. The flares are not important for the crimp aspect. Its the same type of crimp just a different pin.

I found another picture of the type here. Marked "W" for the part that grips conductor and "J" for the one that grips the jacket.

The one that uses the other crimper I was talking about or the barrel style looks like this:

its crimped by a crimper like this:

and final product will look like this:

if your crimp looks like either of those, and still doesn't go in, check the connector to make sure there inst a locking mechanism blocking you.

Thanks. I finally got it in, but it wasn't "right". So I was wondering what I did wrong. And I'm sure I didn't get the crimp right. So if I plan to use any more of those connectors I'll have to get the right tool.

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