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Factory AC conversion thoughts?


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You need to remove the whole dash and the metal frame it attaches to. The steering column/dash attachment point needs unbolted but the column stays in. The hard part is all if the dash wire loom needs to be disconnected and stays in the truck, then fastened back into the new dash shell. I would say it’s an all afternoon kind of job but not that bad. Best to do it all at once while everything’s fresh in your mind and snap a couple pictures to help you remember how it came apart. It looks worse than it is lol.

I did this on my 81. It has been so long ago now I don't remember all the details but I do remember making the third hole in the fire wall. I changed my whole dash out also along with the radiator core support. Mine was from a 85 or 86 that the wrecking yard had taken in and had told me be there Saturday morning I could get all I wanted off the truck before anyone touched it so I was able to get the whole complete A/C system including all brackets, clips, lines, and so on. While I was at it I went ahead and got the power brakes power steering and all associated parts. I just have to remember to buy replacement parts for an 85, 86 F150 when searching for parts and not an 81.

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I did this on my 81. It has been so long ago now I don't remember all the details but I do remember making the third hole in the fire wall.

Thanks for the reply. If all goes well I will get to attempt this swap, and if not then I'll just go back to the original plan of an aftermarket AC system.

 

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After reviewing this some more, I have a couple more questions...

Are the vacuum motors and cables for the AC system still available new or aftermarket?

For a factory system, is the little throttle kicker solenoid going to be required on a 302?

On the ducting...the FSM shows a door to direct it to the 'instrument panel'. I assume the two instrument panel registers are tied to the two registers above the glove box?

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After reviewing this some more, I have a couple more questions...

Are the vacuum motors and cables for the AC system still available new or aftermarket?

For a factory system, is the little throttle kicker solenoid going to be required on a 302?

On the ducting...the FSM shows a door to direct it to the 'instrument panel'. I assume the two instrument panel registers are tied to the two registers above the glove box?

The vacuum motors were available a couple of years ago when I looked. And the cables are.

As for the throttle kicker, I don't think it is necessary. Nice, but I think your engine will idle fine w/o it.

And I think you are right about the ducting. But we have a number of pictures of the ducting here: Documentation/HVAC/HVAC Systems then the Illustrations, Pics, etc tab, Integral A/C cab, and then the Pictures tab. Have you seen them?

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After reviewing this some more, I have a couple more questions...

Are the vacuum motors and cables for the AC system still available new or aftermarket?

For a factory system, is the little throttle kicker solenoid going to be required on a 302?

On the ducting...the FSM shows a door to direct it to the 'instrument panel'. I assume the two instrument panel registers are tied to the two registers above the glove box?

This was when I first joined and some (most) said not to do the fire wall swap.

Pictures of the AC firewall over the non-AC firewall outside and from in side.

20160327_142322.jpg.ec448f44133c2e3d65f980b127e90c6c.jpg

20160327_142404.jpg.51673a1a78dc031d73affc8653e4cdb5.jpg

Think it was after I was done it came out to cut the 3rd hole in the firewall. I would say go for the 3rd hole.

If you can find large paper or maybe card board to trace the AC firewall to then you can move that to your truck to mark & cut.

Now to the condenser & radiator support. I know between my 2 trucks the AC truck had a larger opening for the radiator & condenser so both of them were larger also. Now was this because both were 300 six or ???

also know the after market condenser is a little larger and you need to space out the lower part and the lower hood latch support also needs to be spaced out.

But if you are using everything from the parts truck you may not need to do this spacing out?

The wiring harness for AC is a add on to the trucks system. IIRC there was a loop and you removed the loop and plugged in the AC harness and feed it out thru the firewall to the engine bay.

My parts truck did not have a motor so don't know if it had the idle speed kick up.

I cant really say much on the dash as I swapped the whole dash / ducts & wiring from the parts truck to mine, column was out. I can tell you the center dash support from dash to firewall are different between the 2 systems.

You can paint or dye the dash assy. but use SEM products to do the job.

20170917_142802.jpg.0e007bafe0ba0d6aa48e756b93c986ff.jpg

I don't think you will have half the trouble I did with anything under the hood.

Did I forget anything?

Dave ----

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Think it was after I was done it came out to cut the 3rd hole in the firewall. I would say go for the 3rd hole.

If you can find large paper or maybe card board to trace the AC firewall to then you can move that to your truck to mark & cut.

Dave,

This was kind of my plan, to trace out the AC holes and mark them on my Non-AC cab. It doesn't look all that bad. If you look at the marked up picture below, I see three things that need to be done:

1. A small piece would have to be added here...welded in I suppose. The AC hole here is slightly smaller (shorter) than the Non-AC.

2. This is the one set of holes that overlap each other. On the Non-AC cab this is where the blend door cable passes through. On the AC cab this is where the heater core tubes pass through. I would just cut it out and make an adapter plate here. NBD.

3. The inside air recirc hole, obviously not present on the Non-AC cab.

AC_firewall.jpg.9d03f4cf7cb7c1199c254a5e8c845e66.jpg

This area would have to be heavily modified anyway, even if I install an aftermarket system like Vintage Air, etc, and at least with a factory AC swap, none of it is visible once installed.

The local guy that is parting out the '86 with AC has gone radio silent, so I'm not sure if the parts are even available anymore. He was also trying to sell the whole truck, so it might be gone. I know of another AC truck that is being parted out, but the dash is no good.

The factory AC dash has always been the wild card/difficult to find item. I guess at the end of the day, I could install a hybrid factory AC system. In other words, the whole thing would be factory, but I'd run flexible ducting for the instrument panel and dash registers. That wouldn't be the end of the world either.

In any case, I think I'll make an offer on the 302 parts David linked to earlier. They're also a stumbling block that needs to be overcome. The parts appear to be complete except for the crank pulley, so I'll be on the hunt for one of those.

 

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Think it was after I was done it came out to cut the 3rd hole in the firewall. I would say go for the 3rd hole.

If you can find large paper or maybe card board to trace the AC firewall to then you can move that to your truck to mark & cut.

Dave,

This was kind of my plan, to trace out the AC holes and mark them on my Non-AC cab. It doesn't look all that bad. If you look at the marked up picture below, I see three things that need to be done:

1. A small piece would have to be added here...welded in I suppose. The AC hole here is slightly smaller (shorter) than the Non-AC.

2. This is the one set of holes that overlap each other. On the Non-AC cab this is where the blend door cable passes through. On the AC cab this is where the heater core tubes pass through. I would just cut it out and make an adapter plate here. NBD.

3. The inside air recirc hole, obviously not present on the Non-AC cab.

This area would have to be heavily modified anyway, even if I install an aftermarket system like Vintage Air, etc, and at least with a factory AC swap, none of it is visible once installed.

The local guy that is parting out the '86 with AC has gone radio silent, so I'm not sure if the parts are even available anymore. He was also trying to sell the whole truck, so it might be gone. I know of another AC truck that is being parted out, but the dash is no good.

The factory AC dash has always been the wild card/difficult to find item. I guess at the end of the day, I could install a hybrid factory AC system. In other words, the whole thing would be factory, but I'd run flexible ducting for the instrument panel and dash registers. That wouldn't be the end of the world either.

In any case, I think I'll make an offer on the 302 parts David linked to earlier. They're also a stumbling block that needs to be overcome. The parts appear to be complete except for the crank pulley, so I'll be on the hunt for one of those.

Would this work, Cory? The description states 2 grooves, but I count 3.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1976-to-1985-Ford-Mustang-OEM-302-5-0-V8-2-groove-Crank-Pulley-D6DE-8509-B1A/202827285621?hash=item2f3972c475:g:lJsAAOSwHaddyx1g

Edit:

Here is an older NOS pulley:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Ford-1973-1978-Galaxie-500-LTD-Crank-Pulley-1974-1975-1976-1977-302ci/401624167852?epid=2044580831&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item5d82aa75ac:g:Ge0AAOSwTFBbxln6&enc=AQAEAAACUBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qXg9sCRNFFsr5VG56F%2F6duF8tjyeqskCI7X49Pup1KQs2BvElPINMbGeTDIxTrEEVokzELL0HARyX8Y6dmrWOByzZG9xMHumR2e8lVcAc7qAJ2iyG1%2BzZv2nsd9URHEse74XgcxdItJ8NvOAWjODYFa4sJ8OFXqq9sOBrqUAjS1OqPg33CiC666ReQFUGME%2BwKWLrpWOZL2xBVf7aAazgllHBGNoAS%2B0vwwwYb887QRZu0BTo47UMTkC5WWH7O7yFl7eKA6PWCUlQQibd1pXcpWZkh1XwxjqnyJy5PlkbhdzRYDLjJEtmztdUBkOS%2FCNPszddWOvDkHAXiX%2BUib0oFQiLt%2FB95VQvo%2BJJR%2BomQMB%2FM%2Fo0PQtREXXG5OlJrBBwY%2FpwF%2Feagxn2ZPvLSQatCInUdWudkevYThv%2BTLbRgP8Vds%2Biipb%2B%2FBd0kZHJVHWb%2Fs26AJVF2Yp9T4qshSj7V2WgPwMTXdU1N75FCVMf9XGblGlVBLJdbQun14rrpWcbnxInj%2FAYEQqbaJEqjxABNPFZiTgHNDN5qU6qqacdtCTOgTUvUM6PiSNjY0EZMblbKvO2EpWD8LNwqroqecCamyawx%2F0m25KHKAnfWQdGynmN7fZXpz91hANeppsgF%2FcOinbHFKkXaxGzkQBvWt2naHGx%2FAghTc4Y37Odgs7igHOtiVK5cu7rHPe7RHAgJh7Oe8txBovcdnUQV8llk63XUp9fwgVWZKWkYUfRp%2BtXrHHdp7SX4zjYRp6w%2FrfmvHspU%3D&checksum=401624167852e52832fcae594f4683a5196b0c518227&enc=AQAEAAACUBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qXg9sCRNFFsr5VG56F%2F6duF8tjyeqskCI7X49Pup1KQs2BvElPINMbGeTDIxTrEEVokzELL0HARyX8Y6dmrWOByzZG9xMHumR2e8lVcAc7qAJ2iyG1%2BzZv2nsd9URHEse74XgcxdItJ8NvOAWjODYFa4sJ8OFXqq9sOBrqUAjS1OqPg33CiC666ReQFUGME%2BwKWLrpWOZL2xBVf7aAazgllHBGNoAS%2B0vwwwYb887QRZu0BTo47UMTkC5WWH7O7yFl7eKA6PWCUlQQibd1pXcpWZkh1XwxjqnyJy5PlkbhdzRYDLjJEtmztdUBkOS%2FCNPszddWOvDkHAXiX%2BUib0oFQiLt%2FB95VQvo%2BJJR%2BomQMB%2FM%2Fo0PQtREXXG5OlJrBBwY%2FpwF%2Feagxn2ZPvLSQatCInUdWudkevYThv%2BTLbRgP8Vds%2Biipb%2B%2FBd0kZHJVHWb%2Fs26AJVF2Yp9T4qshSj7V2WgPwMTXdU1N75FCVMf9XGblGlVBLJdbQun14rrpWcbnxInj%2FAYEQqbaJEqjxABNPFZiTgHNDN5qU6qqacdtCTOgTUvUM6PiSNjY0EZMblbKvO2EpWD8LNwqroqecCamyawx%2F0m25KHKAnfWQdGynmN7fZXpz91hANeppsgF%2FcOinbHFKkXaxGzkQBvWt2naHGx%2FAghTc4Y37Odgs7igHOtiVK5cu7rHPe7RHAgJh7Oe8txBovcdnUQV8llk63XUp9fwgVWZKWkYUfRp%2BtXrHHdp7SX4zjYRp6w%2FrfmvHspU%3D&checksum=401624167852e52832fcae594f4683a5196b0c518227

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Would this work, Cory? The description states 2 grooves, but I count 3.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1976-to-1985-Ford-Mustang-OEM-302-5-0-V8-2-groove-Crank-Pulley-D6DE-8509-B1A/202827285621?hash=item2f3972c475:g:lJsAAOSwHaddyx1g

Edit:

Here is an older NOS pulley:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Ford-1973-1978-Galaxie-500-LTD-Crank-Pulley-1974-1975-1976-1977-302ci/401624167852?epid=2044580831&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item5d82aa75ac:g:Ge0AAOSwTFBbxln6&enc=AQAEAAACUBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qXg9sCRNFFsr5VG56F%2F6duF8tjyeqskCI7X49Pup1KQs2BvElPINMbGeTDIxTrEEVokzELL0HARyX8Y6dmrWOByzZG9xMHumR2e8lVcAc7qAJ2iyG1%2BzZv2nsd9URHEse74XgcxdItJ8NvOAWjODYFa4sJ8OFXqq9sOBrqUAjS1OqPg33CiC666ReQFUGME%2BwKWLrpWOZL2xBVf7aAazgllHBGNoAS%2B0vwwwYb887QRZu0BTo47UMTkC5WWH7O7yFl7eKA6PWCUlQQibd1pXcpWZkh1XwxjqnyJy5PlkbhdzRYDLjJEtmztdUBkOS%2FCNPszddWOvDkHAXiX%2BUib0oFQiLt%2FB95VQvo%2BJJR%2BomQMB%2FM%2Fo0PQtREXXG5OlJrBBwY%2FpwF%2Feagxn2ZPvLSQatCInUdWudkevYThv%2BTLbRgP8Vds%2Biipb%2B%2FBd0kZHJVHWb%2Fs26AJVF2Yp9T4qshSj7V2WgPwMTXdU1N75FCVMf9XGblGlVBLJdbQun14rrpWcbnxInj%2FAYEQqbaJEqjxABNPFZiTgHNDN5qU6qqacdtCTOgTUvUM6PiSNjY0EZMblbKvO2EpWD8LNwqroqecCamyawx%2F0m25KHKAnfWQdGynmN7fZXpz91hANeppsgF%2FcOinbHFKkXaxGzkQBvWt2naHGx%2FAghTc4Y37Odgs7igHOtiVK5cu7rHPe7RHAgJh7Oe8txBovcdnUQV8llk63XUp9fwgVWZKWkYUfRp%2BtXrHHdp7SX4zjYRp6w%2FrfmvHspU%3D&checksum=401624167852e52832fcae594f4683a5196b0c518227&enc=AQAEAAACUBPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qXg9sCRNFFsr5VG56F%2F6duF8tjyeqskCI7X49Pup1KQs2BvElPINMbGeTDIxTrEEVokzELL0HARyX8Y6dmrWOByzZG9xMHumR2e8lVcAc7qAJ2iyG1%2BzZv2nsd9URHEse74XgcxdItJ8NvOAWjODYFa4sJ8OFXqq9sOBrqUAjS1OqPg33CiC666ReQFUGME%2BwKWLrpWOZL2xBVf7aAazgllHBGNoAS%2B0vwwwYb887QRZu0BTo47UMTkC5WWH7O7yFl7eKA6PWCUlQQibd1pXcpWZkh1XwxjqnyJy5PlkbhdzRYDLjJEtmztdUBkOS%2FCNPszddWOvDkHAXiX%2BUib0oFQiLt%2FB95VQvo%2BJJR%2BomQMB%2FM%2Fo0PQtREXXG5OlJrBBwY%2FpwF%2Feagxn2ZPvLSQatCInUdWudkevYThv%2BTLbRgP8Vds%2Biipb%2B%2FBd0kZHJVHWb%2Fs26AJVF2Yp9T4qshSj7V2WgPwMTXdU1N75FCVMf9XGblGlVBLJdbQun14rrpWcbnxInj%2FAYEQqbaJEqjxABNPFZiTgHNDN5qU6qqacdtCTOgTUvUM6PiSNjY0EZMblbKvO2EpWD8LNwqroqecCamyawx%2F0m25KHKAnfWQdGynmN7fZXpz91hANeppsgF%2FcOinbHFKkXaxGzkQBvWt2naHGx%2FAghTc4Y37Odgs7igHOtiVK5cu7rHPe7RHAgJh7Oe8txBovcdnUQV8llk63XUp9fwgVWZKWkYUfRp%2BtXrHHdp7SX4zjYRp6w%2FrfmvHspU%3D&checksum=401624167852e52832fcae594f4683a5196b0c518227

David,

That second one looks like it might work, but I'll have to find a way to confirm so before buying one. My existing pulley is a two groove...one for the ALT and one for the rad fan and Pwr Steering. The pulley for a 302 with AC must have 3 grooves...but I don't know what it looks like.

 

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David,

That second one looks like it might work, but I'll have to find a way to confirm so before buying one. My existing pulley is a two groove...one for the ALT and one for the rad fan and Pwr Steering. The pulley for a 302 with AC must have 3 grooves...but I don't know what it looks like.

Cory - Pulleys are a difficult thing to sort out. There was supposed to be a page (Section 60 Pg 5) on them in the MPC, as shown in the snippet below, but none of the digitized MPC's have that page. I'll climb to the microfiche tower later and see if I can find one.

But remember that the # on a part is not the part #. So the second pulley David found had D3AE 6512-AIA, and that's the # you'd be looking for in the Description column.

However, there were lots of ID #'s that correlate to a single part #, so I'll try to cross-ref that part # after a bit as well.

255_and_302_Crank_Pulley_Header.thumb.jpg.72ab1f1b49c35fb71713e644e4a982a9.jpg255_and_302_Crank_Pulley_PNs.thumb.jpg.044327b723e184f7ab29455f669f6431.jpg

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Cory - Pulleys are a difficult thing to sort out. There was supposed to be a page (Section 60 Pg 5) on them in the MPC, as shown in the snippet below, but none of the digitized MPC's have that page. I'll climb to the microfiche tower later and see if I can find one.

But remember that the # on a part is not the part #. So the second pulley David found had D3AE 6512-AIA, and that's the # you'd be looking for in the Description column.

However, there were lots of ID #'s that correlate to a single part #, so I'll try to cross-ref that part # after a bit as well.

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n47571/255_and_302_Crank_Pulley_Header.jpghttp://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n47571/255_and_302_Crank_Pulley_PNs.jpg

That would be awesome Gary, thank you!

I found this one below that almost matches 100%...it has A3A instead of AA...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-4-Groove-302-351-Crank-Pulley-D3DE-6312-A3A/254195743828?epid=1033857901&hash=item3b2f3f3c54:g:ucMAAOSwjR5awn6W

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