Angelo Voltura Posted January 3, 2020 Author Share Posted January 3, 2020 You may have two problems. Solve one and then address the other. That could be possible. I'm going to get a regulator here shortly then for when I get the top end back together so I will have it. That's where my thought with the governor comes in. But it would make sense if it was flooding out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 That could be possible. I'm going to get a regulator here shortly then for when I get the top end back together so I will have it. That's where my thought with the governor comes in. But it would make sense if it was flooding out. I've used this one from Summit and it worked well. They also sell this gauge that works nicely with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 I've used this one from Summit and it worked well. They also sell this gauge that works nicely with it. I was thinking maybe there isn’t enough vacuum at WOT to get it to shift. Don’t think that would explain the popping and back firing though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Voltura Posted January 3, 2020 Author Share Posted January 3, 2020 I've used this one from Summit and it worked well. They also sell this gauge that works nicely with it. Gary I have that one on dads 85 and it works amazing. I have yet to have a problem with it. As far as not pulling enough vacuum at wot...that could be true. I never put a vacuum gauge on it to see what its pulling. I always had good shift at lower throttle positions and good power brakes so I never put any thought to it. But with that monster cam in it, it may already be at minimum operating psi before wot... you may be onto something... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 Gary I have that one on dads 85 and it works amazing. I have yet to have a problem with it. As far as not pulling enough vacuum at wot...that could be true. I never put a vacuum gauge on it to see what its pulling. I always had good shift at lower throttle positions and good power brakes so I never put any thought to it. But with that monster cam in it, it may already be at minimum operating psi before wot... you may be onto something... Where are the rpms when you have to back out to get it to shift? Where are they when it does shift, and you get back into it? Is your distributor locked? Sounds to me like the weights are bouncing, or you just have a bad spark box. Maybe the limiter's just doing its job. You shouldn't be able to float valves if it's set right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 Gary I have that one on dads 85 and it works amazing. I have yet to have a problem with it. As far as not pulling enough vacuum at wot...that could be true. I never put a vacuum gauge on it to see what its pulling. I always had good shift at lower throttle positions and good power brakes so I never put any thought to it. But with that monster cam in it, it may already be at minimum operating psi before wot... you may be onto something... Angelo, I ran into the same thing with my 1977 F150, I built the 390 FE engine from a Camper Special short block, .030 over stock pistons but used a set of heads from a 1965 300 hp engine along with the intake. I had the actual correct Holley and Motorcraft DS-I distributor. I used my existing DS-II box and the DS-II cap, rotor and wires. The C6 I traded a Mercedes-Benz transmission overhaul at a AAMCO center a friend owned for. He built it using a car governor. First time I really ran it up, it floated the valves on the 390, backfired in both directions, fortunately being at WOT, no power valve damage, I actually think that carb was pretty immune to damage due to the interesting power enrichment system. Bottom line, the car governor was probably for a 390 GT or 428 CJ as it was not providing enough pressure to override the downshift pressure (line pressure applied to the throttle end of the shift valves). The solution was to exchange the governor for a low performance or truck one, never had another problem. Unfortunately I did not have a tach in that truck. BTW, 16-17 mpg highway running unloaded and was a damn hot rod, real fun to mess with people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Voltura Posted January 3, 2020 Author Share Posted January 3, 2020 Where are the rpms when you have to back out to get it to shift? Where are they when it does shift, and you get back into it? Is your distributor locked? Sounds to me like the weights are bouncing, or you just have a bad spark box. Maybe the limiter's just doing its job. You shouldn't be able to float valves if it's set right. I have my limiter set to 5500 and it usually shifts out at 5000 or 5200. I turned it down 500, it was at 6000. However it will wind until I do that probably hit the limiter. When it does shift it drops to 3000-3500 or so...its been a while and I took the tach out so I cant really remember all that well. The vacuum advance being connected or not never made a difference. It always ran better with it off and in full advance due to having a both broken springs. I have since fixed that. As far as the governor goes that what another thought since the trans is definitely from a car although I do not know what. I never tested line pressure but I could see it not being high enough to override. I've never changed one on one of these before...how much of a PITA is it? I heard the tail shaft has to come off. This is partially the reason why I belive the ratchet shifter got put in other than the ease of installation. Best I ever did was 12mpg driving it super nice. Otherwise its smiles per mile :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 I have my limiter set to 5500 and it usually shifts out at 5000 or 5200. I turned it down 500, it was at 6000. However it will wind until I do that probably hit the limiter. When it does shift it drops to 3000-3500 or so...its been a while and I took the tach out so I cant really remember all that well. The vacuum advance being connected or not never made a difference. It always ran better with it off and in full advance due to having a both broken springs. I have since fixed that. As far as the governor goes that what another thought since the trans is definitely from a car although I do not know what. I never tested line pressure but I could see it not being high enough to override. I've never changed one on one of these before...how much of a PITA is it? I heard the tail shaft has to come off. This is partially the reason why I belive the ratchet shifter got put in other than the ease of installation. Best I ever did was 12mpg driving it super nice. Otherwise its smiles per mile :) 3k is where the MSD goes from multiple sparks to a single one, right? Not the vacuum advance, a bolt in the works to lock it tight. The truck should be bouncing off the limiter when you let off the line lock and launch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
old55pete Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 You say that you replaced the vacume modulator, Did you adjust it after you put it In? There is an adjusting screw inside the spout where the vacume hose hooks up and can be adjusted with a small screw driver like they give away at the parts store. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted January 4, 2020 Share Posted January 4, 2020 I have my limiter set to 5500 and it usually shifts out at 5000 or 5200. I turned it down 500, it was at 6000. However it will wind until I do that probably hit the limiter. When it does shift it drops to 3000-3500 or so...its been a while and I took the tach out so I cant really remember all that well. The vacuum advance being connected or not never made a difference. It always ran better with it off and in full advance due to having a both broken springs. I have since fixed that. As far as the governor goes that what another thought since the trans is definitely from a car although I do not know what. I never tested line pressure but I could see it not being high enough to override. I've never changed one on one of these before...how much of a PITA is it? I heard the tail shaft has to come off. This is partially the reason why I belive the ratchet shifter got put in other than the ease of installation. Best I ever did was 12mpg driving it super nice. Otherwise its smiles per mile :) Tail shaft has to come off, the governor is bolted to a counterweight on the output shaft. The valve itself has a specific weight, but the initial pressure is from a heavier weight with a spring. You might try a small washer inside the valve where the spring goes to add some weight. If this brings your WOT shift points down where you want them, then you can tweak the part throttle with the modulator. Here are a couple of pictures for you: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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