ArdWrknTrk Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 That rod is known for breaking especially on the tilt columns. I would definitely be checking that if a new lock cylinder didn't solve it. regardless if its a tilt column or not. I have seen them only partially move, break in odd spots etc. Sounds to me like he's got a hot fuel setup. Hot fuel should be powered off the 'I' terminal of the starter relay. This means the pump will run even though there is no oil pressure. Primes the carb while cranking. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norcalbullnose Posted January 6, 2020 Author Share Posted January 6, 2020 Hot fuel should be powered off the 'I' terminal of the starter relay. This means the pump will run even though there is no oil pressure. Primes the carb while cranking. So is that wire the pink and black one? The one that powers the fuel pump or is it a different one? I currently have that on the s terminal so that would make a lot of sense Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 So is that wire the pink and black one? The one that powers the fuel pump or is it a different one? I currently have that on the s terminal so that would make a lot of sense If you look at the hot fuel diagram you'll see it bypasses all the safeties and powers the selector directly. (while cranking) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norcalbullnose Posted January 6, 2020 Author Share Posted January 6, 2020 If you look at the hot fuel diagram you'll see it bypasses all the safeties and powers the selector directly. (while cranking) Update: I replaced the ignition switch with the higher end one from napa($28) and she cranks like a dream now but still no fuel. I changed where the wire goes on the relay and now I'm going to check the inertia switch just in case. Probably just a lack of gas and my fuel gauge doesnt work so I'll put a few more gallons in tomorrow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 6, 2020 Share Posted January 6, 2020 Update: I replaced the ignition switch with the higher end one from napa($28) and she cranks like a dream now but still no fuel. I changed where the wire goes on the relay and now I'm going to check the inertia switch just in case. Probably just a lack of gas and my fuel gauge doesnt work so I'll put a few more gallons in tomorrow "Changed where the wire goes on the relay" ? Do you mean you've moved one wire to the 'I' terminal? Why isn't the pump running while cranking? I'm not sure of all years, but the hot fuel wiring I know will definitely run with the safety and resistor bypassed if the key is in the 'Start' position. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norcalbullnose Posted January 7, 2020 Author Share Posted January 7, 2020 "Changed where the wire goes on the relay" ? Do you mean you've moved one wire to the 'I' terminal? Why isn't the pump running while cranking? I'm not sure of all years, but the hot fuel wiring I know will definitely run with the safety and resistor bypassed if the key is in the 'Start' position. What I mean was before I read your comment above I had the fuel pump wire on the s terminal of the relay and I changed to the I terminal. I'm going to take another look and see what is wrong because it had worked before and I havnt messed with the fuel system yet Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norcalbullnose Posted January 7, 2020 Author Share Posted January 7, 2020 Yes, you should sort out the clutch switch. It isn't safe w/o it, although Ford didn't install one until about '84. I finally got it to run thank you guys, now does anyone know how to set up an aftermarket oil pressure gauge and have any suggestions or links to any threads. My whole cluster doesnt work so I have no idea if there is any at all. Thank you Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 7, 2020 Share Posted January 7, 2020 I finally got it to run thank you guys, now does anyone know how to set up an aftermarket oil pressure gauge and have any suggestions or links to any threads. My whole cluster doesnt work so I have no idea if there is any at all. Thank you Why not fix the cluster? The oil pressure sender is at the back of the intake manifold. You can foiiow the ground wire back from the fuel pump relay. Either add a 'T', or remove the old sender and connect your new gauge. Mechanical, or electric? Which do you want? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norcalbullnose Posted January 7, 2020 Author Share Posted January 7, 2020 Why not fix the cluster? The oil pressure sender is at the back of the intake manifold. You can foiiow the ground wire back from the fuel pump relay. Either add a 'T', or remove the old sender and connect your new gauge. Mechanical, or electric? Which do you want? The only reason I dont want to fix the cluster right now is because the previous owners of this truck completely ruined all of the wiring and I dont have enough experience to do a better job myself, but it is definitely on the list. I just wanted to hook up a oil pressure and water temp gauge. There is already a water temp gauge in there which is mechanical but it doesnt work. All it was connected to it is what I believe is a water line going to the front of the intake manifold right next to the distributor. I have no clue how mechanical gauges work and if they need electrical work, my guess would be no but I dont know too much. How would setting up a mechanical oil pressure gauge go and what do you mean by a "T"? I'm sorry I ask so many questions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 8, 2020 Share Posted January 8, 2020 The only reason I dont want to fix the cluster right now is because the previous owners of this truck completely ruined all of the wiring and I dont have enough experience to do a better job myself, but it is definitely on the list. I just wanted to hook up a oil pressure and water temp gauge. There is already a water temp gauge in there which is mechanical but it doesnt work. All it was connected to it is what I believe is a water line going to the front of the intake manifold right next to the distributor. I have no clue how mechanical gauges work and if they need electrical work, my guess would be no but I dont know too much. How would setting up a mechanical oil pressure gauge go and what do you mean by a "T"? I'm sorry I ask so many questions No need to apologize. That's why we're all here, to help each other. I'm assuming you mean the ~2" long bypass hose between the front of the intake and the back of the water pump. The stock oil pressure sender looks like a little tin can with a wire going to the top of it. It changes resistance as the oil pressure from the oil gallery at the back of the block, above the cam, pushes against a spring inside. In essence more pressure pushes the contact closer to ground, making for a higher reading. Mechanical oil pressure gauges don't rely on electricity at all. There is a tube from the oil port to the gauge. Inside the gauge uses a bourdon tube connected to the indicator needle. This tube is coiled up like a watch spring. When pressure acts on it, it wants to straighten out, and this makes the needle sweep around. A Tee is just a plumbing part so that a single source can feed two things at once. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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