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Starter solenoid?


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This thread isnt about my starter solenoid anymore should I start one just for my truck? Anyways sorry it took a while I had the truck running installed an oil pressure gauge and from a cold start shes right at 75psi. Now I need to figure out the tuning of the carb and install a new choke. I took a picture of where my mystery water temp gauge's line is hooked up. Can someone explain to me what it is and what I need to replace exactly. I have no clue I am sorry

A coiled line like that is usually a mechanical coolant temp or oil pressure line. And there's no oil pressure to read in the intake manifold, but there is coolant. So it is surely a coolant temp line going back to the gauge.

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The coiled metal pipe goes into the block right under where the fuel line is behind the distributer

I am kinda outta my field here so Im hopping someone will correct me if Im wrong. If memory stands correct, the sending unit for oil preassure is in back of the intake manifold on the top of the block. Right next to the fire wall. Most guages come with the tube and adapters to remove the sending unit and run the line from the engine to the guage in the cab. Not to down play it, but it aint the space shuttle eather. They are real simple

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I am kinda outta my field here so Im hopping someone will correct me if Im wrong. If memory stands correct, the sending unit for oil preassure is in back of the intake manifold on the top of the block. Right next to the fire wall. Most guages come with the tube and adapters to remove the sending unit and run the line from the engine to the guage in the cab. Not to down play it, but it aint the space shuttle eather. They are real simple

You're absolutely right Steve, it's not rocket science.

But he is talking about the water temp gauge already installed by the PO.

BTW, my son was a umbilical engineer on the shuttle after graduating Embry-Riddle in Daytona.

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You're absolutely right Steve, it's not rocket science.

But he is talking about the water temp gauge already installed by the PO.

BTW, my son was a umbilical engineer on the shuttle after graduating Embry-Riddle in Daytona.

Yeah I installed the oil pressure after a few tries and it works perfectly now I'm just figuring out the carb and getting the coolants temp to work. The previous owner I bought it from did a horrible job rebuilding and after removing it to install a manual choke I'm considering replacing it. Anyone know of a C.A.R.B legal carburetor for me or do I have to go OEM replacement?

 

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Yeah I installed the oil pressure after a few tries and it works perfectly now I'm just figuring out the carb and getting the coolants temp to work. The previous owner I bought it from did a horrible job rebuilding and after removing it to install a manual choke I'm considering replacing it. Anyone know of a C.A.R.B legal carburetor for me or do I have to go OEM replacement?

If you can afford to be without it for a couple of weeks, I used to have a carburetor shop, problem is I am clear on the other side of the country from you.

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If you can afford to be without it for a couple of weeks, I used to have a carburetor shop, problem is I am clear on the other side of the country from you.

There is actually a small shop locally that specializes in holley and I was considering taking it to them I just dont know what exactly they will have to do to make it work properly again and how much it will be. It runs rich, idles high no matter how I adjust the screw for some reason. That's why I was just considering a new one but I domt seem to have any options at all

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There is actually a small shop locally that specializes in holley and I was considering taking it to them I just dont know what exactly they will have to do to make it work properly again and how much it will be. It runs rich, idles high no matter how I adjust the screw for some reason. That's why I was just considering a new one but I domt seem to have any options at all

You probably have a blown power valve and a vacuum leak, or the secondaries are not closing all the way.

Try starting the truck and closing both idle mixture screws slowly.

If the truck even tries to run with them all the way in, the fuel is leaking past the seal.

IF the float level is correct.

Both my truck and my Mustang came with 4180's.

They're not hard to rebuild, but they ARE easy to screw up.

Unfortunately, I sold my 4180 to someone who needed it for emissions.

The 0-80457-S is going to be as close as you get in Holley's catalog, but it doesn't have bowl vents, and the fuel goes to the side of the primary bowl instead of to a filter on the front.

I think Gary may have one.

If his goes to Bill, then to you, and then yours goes to Bill and on to Gary, you wouldn't have the downtime.

But all those parties would have to be agreeable.

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You probably have a blown power valve and a vacuum leak, or the secondaries are not closing all the way.

Try starting the truck and closing both idle mixture screws slowly.

If the truck even tries to run with them all the way in, the fuel is leaking past the seal.

IF the float level is correct.

Both my truck and my Mustang came with 4180's.

They're not hard to rebuild, but they ARE easy to screw up.

Unfortunately, I sold my 4180 to someone who needed it for emissions.

The 0-80457-S is going to be as close as you get in Holley's catalog, but it doesn't have bowl vents, and the fuel goes to the side of the primary bowl instead of to a filter on the front.

I think Gary may have one.

If his goes to Bill, then to you, and then yours goes to Bill and on to Gary, you wouldn't have the downtime.

But all those parties would have to be agreeable.

I have one and would be willing to do the dance Jim suggested. However, these are heavy carbs and the shipping would get expensive. If you have a carb shop locally it might be less expensive to have them do it just from the shipping alone.

We have two versions of the factory rebuilding manuals here: Documentation/Fuel Systems/Carb Chokes & EFI/Holley 4180C and on the Ford Service Manuals tab. Either your shop or you could follow them to rebuild the carb.

And Jim is right - it sounds like you have both a blown power valve and a vacuum leak. Those aren't hard to repair and we can walk you through it - and I'd start with Jim's suggestions. But if you have a vacuum leak then having the carb rebuilt isn't going to fix all of the problems as the leak is probably not the carb's fault.

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I have one and would be willing to do the dance Jim suggested. However, these are heavy carbs and the shipping would get expensive. If you have a carb shop locally it might be less expensive to have them do it just from the shipping alone.

We have two versions of the factory rebuilding manuals here: Documentation/Fuel Systems/Carb Chokes & EFI/Holley 4180C and on the Ford Service Manuals tab. Either your shop or you could follow them to rebuild the carb.

And Jim is right - it sounds like you have both a blown power valve and a vacuum leak. Those aren't hard to repair and we can walk you through it - and I'd start with Jim's suggestions. But if you have a vacuum leak then having the carb rebuilt isn't going to fix all of the problems as the leak is probably not the carb's fault.

Oh yes, don't miss the link on the Holley 4180C page to the Adjustments booklet, which has even more info on that carb.

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Oh yes, don't miss the link on the Holley 4180C page to the Adjustments booklet, which has even more info on that carb.

One thing notorious is the EGR spacer leaking.

And if the spacer isn't there, there's going to be an open hole.

If the gasket is wrong, there's going to be an open hole!

Unless there is an aftermarket manifold....

But the Eddy puts that water port on the other side. AMHIK....

This needs its own thread, and it needs moar pics, before I'm willing to do any diagnosis.

This is all guesswork without data.

 

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