Gary Lewis Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 I tried the fuse trick and it works perfectly now. Best sounding crank I've heard from ot so far. Should I just keep the fuse where it is or replace the whole switch? Yes, you should sort out the clutch switch. It isn't safe w/o it, although Ford didn't install one until about '84. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 Yes, you should sort out the clutch switch. It isn't safe w/o it, although Ford didn't install one until about '84. Sometimes it's just the self adjusting block that's causing it. Plug it back into the switch. Move the ratcheting block down toward the pedal a few inches. Turn the key to crank, and -then- step on the pedal. It will sound like plastic cracking, but does the truck engage the starter? If it does, you've fixed it! If it won't, you should replace the switch. The fender relay getting stuck engaged is a whole different matter, and you have that sorted now with new cables. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted January 3, 2020 Share Posted January 3, 2020 Yes, you should sort out the clutch switch. It isn't safe w/o it, although Ford didn't install one until about '84. Yes, before 84 it was assumed that if you had a manual transmission you were bright enough to not start it in gear, but reverse lock for steering columns meant your car was in reverse when you turned the key on so the government decided that in order to fix a problem they created, require a safety switch on manual transmissions on the clutch instead of simply adding an interrupt switch like an automatic transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norcalbullnose Posted January 5, 2020 Author Share Posted January 5, 2020 Yes, you should sort out the clutch switch. It isn't safe w/o it, although Ford didn't install one until about '84. So now I seem to have everything figured out minus two things. When I go to start the ignition switch seems to have none of the spring back that it used to have. Is this just a bad switch? The other problem is fuel but I am working on it I believe it just isnt primed from sitting for so long. If someone can help with the switch that would be fantastic! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norcalbullnose Posted January 5, 2020 Author Share Posted January 5, 2020 So now I seem to have everything figured out minus two things. When I go to start the ignition switch seems to have none of the spring back that it used to have. Is this just a bad switch? The other problem is fuel but I am working on it I believe it just isnt primed from sitting for so long. If someone can help with the switch that would be fantastic! It cranks when it is in the run position, I have to turn the key all the back to lock for it to quit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 It cranks when it is in the run position, I have to turn the key all the back to lock for it to quit You may either have an ignition switch problem or maybe just the linkage between the tumbler and the switch is dragging. See the Ignition Switch tab on this page and see if it helps: Documentation/Electrical/Ignition. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 It cranks when it is in the run position, I have to turn the key all the back to lock for it to quit Do you have a tilt steering wheel? Could be the pot metal actuator rod is broken. I replaced my ignition switch about a month ago. There should be pictures in the WHYDTYTT thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 So now I seem to have everything figured out minus two things. When I go to start the ignition switch seems to have none of the spring back that it used to have. Is this just a bad switch? The other problem is fuel but I am working on it I believe it just isnt primed from sitting for so long. If someone can help with the switch that would be fantastic! Do you have a mechanical fuel pump behind the power steering? Or do you have the "Hot Fuel Handling" electric pump system? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norcalbullnose Posted January 5, 2020 Author Share Posted January 5, 2020 Do you have a mechanical fuel pump behind the power steering? Or do you have the "Hot Fuel Handling" electric pump system? It's not tilt steering, everything seems to be fine and I followed the instructions on that thread linked above when I did it a while ago and it seems to only do it once it fired after I put some gas in the carb. I'm going over it again to see if I messed up. And I do not have a mechanical fuel pump, it worked fine after I first had it running. I replaced the relay and checked the wires. I also suspect a leak somewhere as when I start to crank everything smells of gas fumes, or that could be because the air cleaner is off at the moment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Angelo Voltura Posted January 5, 2020 Share Posted January 5, 2020 Do you have a tilt steering wheel? Could be the pot metal actuator rod is broken. I replaced my ignition switch about a month ago. There should be pictures in the WHYDTYTT thread That rod is known for breaking especially on the tilt columns. I would definitely be checking that if a new lock cylinder didn't solve it. regardless if its a tilt column or not. I have seen them only partially move, break in odd spots etc. Sounds to me like he's got a hot fuel setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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