Norcalbullnose Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 New member here looking for some help. I have a 1984 f350 crew cab long bed 460 4speed and this is my first "project". I bought it not able to start it for 500 and shes in pretty good shape for what she is. Anyways I have got it to start multiple times and even drove it but now I have this intermittent issue with the solenoid on the fender, at least I believe it is. The starter will stick when I go to crank it but it's not all the time. I have replaced to solenoid I think 4 times just the regular napa replacement. Everytime I install the new one I get 1 to 2 starts from it before it completely fries the solenoid. I have done everything I can think of, all the wires are fine, grounds fine, brand new starter, ignition switch, key cylinder. I just dont know anymore but I really want to get this ole girl running without having to drop a ton of money right now. Thank you for your replies, any help will be greatly appreciated guys -Cody Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Wyatt Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 If it was mine, I would get the starter checked. It could be on it's way out and drawing too many amps and frying the starter relay. I would also be suspicious of the starter solenoid. It's the one mounted on the starter itself, If it has one, the other one on the fender is the starter relay. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norcalbullnose Posted December 31, 2019 Author Share Posted December 31, 2019 If it was mine, I would get the starter checked. It could be on it's way out and drawing too many amps and frying the starter relay. I would also be suspicious of the starter solenoid. It's the one mounted on the starter itself, If it has one, the other one on the fender is the starter relay. The starter I have is the one without the solenoid on it, I always confuse solenoid and relay I am sorry about that. So I just have the fender mount. I will take the starter to have it tested but if it is not the starter drawing too much what could it be? Would some new positive/negative and starter wires help? Larger size? Thank you for the input! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 My advice to you is replace both battery cables and the starter cable. These get black and corroded inside the insulation and cause resistance. That in turn makes the relay pass insane amounts of amperage to try and feed the starter. 9/10 times it's the cables causing the relay to weld itself DAMHIK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Wyatt Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 My advice to you is replace both battery cables and the starter cable. These get black and corroded inside the insulation and cause resistance. That in turn makes the relay pass insane amounts of amperage to try and feed the starter. 9/10 times it's the cables causing the relay to weld itself DAMHIK +2 on checking the cables. That will easily cause an increase in amperage draw Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norcalbullnose Posted December 31, 2019 Author Share Posted December 31, 2019 +2 on checking the cables. That will easily cause an increase in amperage draw Okay sweet thank you guys I'll be goin to the parts store tomorrow hopefully that helps me out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 Okay sweet thank you guys I'll be goin to the parts store tomorrow hopefully that helps me out! When you replace the ground cable to the front corner of the block make sure you add a smaller ground from that point back to the frame. Motor mounts are isolators and the firewall ground does not complete the frame circuit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norcalbullnose Posted December 31, 2019 Author Share Posted December 31, 2019 When you replace the ground cable to the front corner of the block make sure you add a smaller ground from that point back to the frame. Motor mounts are isolators and the firewall ground does not complete the frame circuit. Okay now you're onto something, my battery ground goes directly to the frame, but there is still the ground from the engine to the frame and they go to the same spot, if I run the cable from battery to the block, block to frame would that have been/maybe solve this issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 31, 2019 Share Posted December 31, 2019 Okay now you're onto something, my battery ground goes directly to the frame, but there is still the ground from the engine to the frame and they go to the same spot, if I run the cable from battery to the block, block to frame would that have been/maybe solve this issue? It could certainly help! The Motorcraft battery cable has a little 'flag' that connects to the frame, while the cable continues to the block. Of course... the Motorcraft cable is $$$$ and a $10-20 2/0 cable from the parts store is just as good. I think I have a 12" #6 garden tractor cable going back to the frame on my truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norcalbullnose Posted December 31, 2019 Author Share Posted December 31, 2019 It could certainly help! The Motorcraft battery cable has a little 'flag' that connects to the frame, while the cable continues to the block. Of course... the Motorcraft cable is $$$$ and a $10-20 2/0 cable from the parts store is just as good. I think I have a 12" #6 garden tractor cable going back to the frame on my truck. Do both of the grounds go to the same spot on the block? I would imagine they do but my knowledge is very limited. I'm going to be getting some big ole cables and a new relay tomorrow I really hope this solves it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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