Idi turbo junkyard list

[FuzzFace2]

Turn in a 1/4 turn counter clock wise to up the fuel to match the fuel needs that the turbo will create. If this is not done the engine will run" lean" and over heat the pistons.

Actually it’s the opposite. With diesel, the more fuel you add is the hotter it will run. That’s how novices melt their pistons trying to squeeze a little more punch out of their engines without a turbo. The turbo adds air and allows you to burn more fuel safely. If you don’t turn the fuel up, the turbo will have little effect compared to natural aspiration. But you don’t want black smoke (just light grey at WOT) and you don’t want your EGT’s over 1,100*F under max load. Generally a turbo will have you running cooler than NA under most conditions.

NOT turning your fuel up cripples your turbo system in two ways. 1, your IP pretty much puts out what can be burned naturally aspirated. So adding air burns it a bit cleaner but does not add much power. 2, the turbo spools off of exhaust pressure form heat expansion of gasses. Adding air lowers the exhaust gas temperature, so at stock fuel settings the heat is low and does not spool the turbo very well, which cripples its effectiveness (i.e., you will have a hard time getting any boost out of it). Another thing to remember about building boost is that ignition timing and valve timing affect exhaust pressure. You can’t do anything about valve timing without switching cams, but you can build more exhaust pressure and help the turbo spool by retarding the injection pump timing. This will also shift your power band, so you will have to play with it and see where you like it for your set up and how you use the truck. Just be aware that the factory manual centerline of 8.5* probably won’t give you the best results with a turbo. The bigger the turbo, the more true this is. The little kit turbo’s don’t need much to get them going, and you may be happy with it at 8.5*, but if it isn’t building much boost you can try a little less timing.

Vary true on more fuel more EGT and the need to keep and eye on the EGT gauge.

Also the only time my Banks /6.2 made boost is under load, read moving. If you were to just stab the throttle the boost gauge would not move.

When I installed my system it turn a dog into a big block gas motor as far as driving but had the MPG of the diesel it was great!

Also may want to up the dia of the rest of the exh. system.

My 86 Blazer had factory duels but the banks kit cane with single 3" from down pipe to tip of tail pipe.

Dave ----

 

[old55pete]

Turn in a 1/4 turn counter clock wise to up the fuel to match the fuel needs that the turbo will create. If this is not done the engine will run" lean" and over heat the pistons.

Actually it’s the opposite. With diesel, the more fuel you add is the hotter it will run. That’s how novices melt their pistons trying to squeeze a little more punch out of their engines without a turbo. The turbo adds air and allows you to burn more fuel safely. If you don’t turn the fuel up, the turbo will have little effect compared to natural aspiration. But you don’t want black smoke (just light grey at WOT) and you don’t want your EGT’s over 1,100*F under max load. Generally a turbo will have you running cooler than NA under most conditions.

NOT turning your fuel up cripples your turbo system in two ways. 1, your IP pretty much puts out what can be burned naturally aspirated. So adding air burns it a bit cleaner but does not add much power. 2, the turbo spools off of exhaust pressure form heat expansion of gasses. Adding air lowers the exhaust gas temperature, so at stock fuel settings the heat is low and does not spool the turbo very well, which cripples its effectiveness (i.e., you will have a hard time getting any boost out of it). Another thing to remember about building boost is that ignition timing and valve timing affect exhaust pressure. You can’t do anything about valve timing without switching cams, but you can build more exhaust pressure and help the turbo spool by retarding the injection pump timing. This will also shift your power band, so you will have to play with it and see where you like it for your set up and how you use the truck. Just be aware that the factory manual centerline of 8.5* probably won’t give you the best results with a turbo. The bigger the turbo, the more true this is. The little kit turbo’s don’t need much to get them going, and you may be happy with it at 8.5*, but if it isn’t building much boost you can try a little less timing.

Vary true on more fuel more EGT and the need to keep and eye on the EGT gauge.

Also the only time my Banks /6.2 made boost is under load, read moving. If you were to just stab the throttle the boost gauge would not move.

When I installed my system it turn a dog into a big block gas motor as far as driving but had the MPG of the diesel it was great!

Also may want to up the dia of the rest of the exh. system.

My 86 Blazer had factory duels but the banks kit cane with single 3" from down pipe to tip of tail pipe.

Dave ----

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[Rogue_Wulff]

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Nice find!!!!

I don't know where you are located, but I would be interested in the OD unit. I have a 74 F100 2wd with 390/c6 that could use an OD, and I have been looking for something like that.

When I started planning a diesel swap in my 80 F150, I had initially intended to find an IDI and adapt a turbo to it, but then ran across a smoking deal on a 5.9 cummins.

I'm sure you will love the improvement the turbo makes once you have it on.