Fuel gauge "reading" inaccurate - can I do this?

[ArdWrknTrk]

Not sure why anyone would have to weld in TWO new bungs for an FI setup.

Just use the later tank, sender and pump.

Your suggesting buying a new fuel tank with a sender unit and in-tank fuel pump, rather than just weld in a bung at the bottom for the external fuel pump (that comes with the FI kit) and bung on the top for the fuel return? I suppose if I needed a new fuel tank, that would have been a good way to go.

Is the tank mounting/positioning and straps the same for the 19-gallon mid-ship (with carb engine) and the EFI setup? with the only difference being the size of the opening for the sender/pump unit?

Anyways, I went the re-using existing tank route. No problem with that - I'm just having a problem getting the sending unit float arm bent to the correct angle.

Yeah.

I'm sorry. I have no idea that your aftermarket fuel injection package comes with an external pump, bungs and a separate return line.

I think it's '85 and up that have a larger bung that fits the FDM, but I have a mechanical pump on the timing case.

So I have two contacts (sender only) but the later (16-160 ohm) sender instead of the 70-10 ohm sender of the hot spring type gauges.

Otherwise the tanks are the same.

[CountryBumkin]

I think it's '85 and up that have a larger bung that fits the FDM, but I have a mechanical pump on the timing case.

So I have two contacts (sender only) but the later (16-160 ohm) sender instead of the 70-10 ohm sender of the hot spring type gauges.

Well that stinks. So the EFI fuel tank would fit but the sender unit wont work with the older dash gauge.

Using the original '82 tank requires two bungs to be added - and going with a EFI style tank would require some type of mod to the fuel sender unit. There is no simple solution - either tank style requires some sort of modification.

BTW, the MSD Atomic TBI kit I bought recommends that the fuel pump be installed "in the tank" - but says if that is not possible then mount it as low and close to the tank as possible. That is why I had the bung welded to the back/bottom of tank. I would have preferred an in-tank solution.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think it's '85 and up that have a larger bung that fits the FDM, but I have a mechanical pump on the timing case.

So I have two contacts (sender only) but the later (16-160 ohm) sender instead of the 70-10 ohm sender of the hot spring type gauges.

Well that stinks. So the EFI fuel tank would fit but the sender unit wont work with the older dash gauge.

Using the original '82 tank requires two bungs to be added - and going with a EFI style tank would require some type of mod to the fuel sender unit. There is no simple solution - either tank style requires some sort of modification.

BTW, the MSD Atomic TBI kit I bought recommends that the fuel pump be installed "in the tank" - but says if that is not possible then mount it as low and close to the tank as possible. That is why I had the bung welded to the back/bottom of tank. I would have preferred an in-tank solution.

'85 & '86 senders work fine!

I have an '87 cluster with reverse reading gauges but can't find a pair of '87 TWO POLE senders to save my life.

So I've got '85- '86 senders from LMC.

[Gary Lewis]

I think it's '85 and up that have a larger bung that fits the FDM, but I have a mechanical pump on the timing case.

So I have two contacts (sender only) but the later (16-160 ohm) sender instead of the 70-10 ohm sender of the hot spring type gauges.

Well that stinks. So the EFI fuel tank would fit but the sender unit wont work with the older dash gauge.

Using the original '82 tank requires two bungs to be added - and going with a EFI style tank would require some type of mod to the fuel sender unit. There is no simple solution - either tank style requires some sort of modification.

BTW, the MSD Atomic TBI kit I bought recommends that the fuel pump be installed "in the tank" - but says if that is not possible then mount it as low and close to the tank as possible. That is why I had the bung welded to the back/bottom of tank. I would have preferred an in-tank solution.

There are several in-tank EFI fuel pumps that include senders that work with the Bullnose gauges. You can see them below from the Documentation/Fuel Systems/Fuel Systems Part Numbers/Senders & Pumps page.

But they usually require frame-mounted reservoirs and valves. Do you have two tanks?

[CountryBumkin]

There are several in-tank EFI fuel pumps that include senders that work with the Bullnose gauges. You can see them below from the Documentation/Fuel Systems/Fuel Systems Part Numbers/Senders & Pumps page.

But they usually require frame-mounted reservoirs and valves. Do you have two tanks?

Just one tank. Mid-ship 19 gal. 133" WB

Which EFI tank works with the stock ('82) gauges?

[Gary Lewis]

Just one tank. Mid-ship 19 gal. 133" WB

Which EFI tank works with the stock ('82) gauges?

The '85 and later tanks have the larger opening and take the sender or sender/pump combo with the larger flange. Any sender or sender/pump combo for a Bullnose truck will work with a Bullnose gauge. Or did I misunderstand?

[ArdWrknTrk]

The '85 and later tanks have the larger opening and take the sender or sender/pump combo with the larger flange. Any sender or sender/pump combo for a Bullnose truck will work with a Bullnose gauge. Or did I misunderstand?

Exactly!

[CountryBumkin]

I think it's '85 and up that have a larger bung that fits the FDM, but I have a mechanical pump on the timing case.

So I have two contacts (sender only) but the later (16-160 ohm) sender instead of the 70-10 ohm sender of the hot spring type gauges.

Otherwise the tanks are the same.

I thought this post was saying there where two types of sender units.

I removed the sender unit and tweaked it to read empty just as the fuel bung starts to run dry (even though there is still about 4 gallons in the tank).

I struggled to get the sender reinstalled. it was easy enough to get it out with one hand (using a brass drift and hammer to turn the lock ring), but I had a hell of a time trying get the lock ring reinstalled with one hand. I finally manged to get it in, but now I see the rubber sealing o-ring is sticking out on one side.

I'll need to drop the exhaust or driveshaft now to be able to get up in there with both hands and get this right.

Oh well.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think it's '85 and up that have a larger bung that fits the FDM, but I have a mechanical pump on the timing case.

So I have two contacts (sender only) but the later (16-160 ohm) sender instead of the 70-10 ohm sender of the hot spring type gauges.

Otherwise the tanks are the same.

I thought this post was saying there where two types of sender units.

I removed the sender unit and tweaked it to read empty just as the fuel bung starts to run dry (even though there is still about 4 gallons in the tank).

I struggled to get the sender reinstalled. it was easy enough to get it out with one hand (using a brass drift and hammer to turn the lock ring), but I had a hell of a time trying get the lock ring reinstalled with one hand. I finally manged to get it in, but now I see the rubber sealing o-ring is sticking out on one side.

I'll need to drop the exhaust or driveshaft now to be able to get up in there with both hands and get this right.

Oh well.

There are many types of sender units.

There are small bung (pre '85) units with two contacts.

There are large bung ('85-'86) units with two or four pins, depending on if you have a pump attached to the sender.

These units are low pressure and feed a reservoir, and a high pressure pump on the frame rail.

All of these read with the Bullnose gauges.

For '87--> you have large bung, but the sender reads a totally different scale, and it's reversed.

In '87 ONLY there was a two pin version for 351 HO and 460's with a mechanical pump on the engine.

At some point, the in-tank pump became high pressure and the frame pump/reservoir was eliminated.

[CountryBumkin]

I struggled to get the sender reinstalled. it was easy enough to get it out with one hand (using a brass drift and hammer to turn the lock ring), but I had a hell of a time trying get the lock ring reinstalled with one hand. I finally manged to get it in, but now I see the rubber sealing o-ring is sticking out on one side.

I'll need to drop the exhaust or driveshaft now to be able to get up in there with both hands and get this right.

Oh well.

I complained that I had to drop the driveshaft to get both hands on the fuel gauge sender -- well, I was lucky I did.

Turns out I have a bad U-joint. I didn't hear or feel anything wrong - so if I didn't drop the shaft I would not have found out about the u-joint until it came apart somewhere inconvenient.