Rembrant Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 Any recommendations for a good radiator brand? I ordered one from RockAuto and have been happy with it. It is exactly the same as my original 1984 radiator with the one small exception that my original did not have ports for auto transmission lines. I forget what brand it is but I can look it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Roma Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 I ordered one from RockAuto and have been happy with it. It is exactly the same as my original 1984 radiator with the one small exception that my original did not have ports for auto transmission lines. I forget what brand it is but I can look it up. If you could, thanks. I came across this website that showed only four brands: APDI, LKQ, One Stop Solutions, and Spectra. Any experience with products from these brands/resellers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Roma Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 There really aren't many choices left, in a 'stockish' radiator. If you want an all welded aluminum race type I can clue you in 20 years ago I would have said Modine. But now it's just a bunch of Visteon brands if I recall Is a race-type better? I'm going to guess that aluminum is better than the old stuff, and what about the number of cores, 2/3/4? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 Is a race-type better? I'm going to guess that aluminum is better than the old stuff, and what about the number of cores, 2/3/4? Griffin, Ron Davis and Wizard are popular here in the north east. Aluminum is definitely better at heat transfer than brass, but isn't easily repaired with solder. Anodizing it black helps even more. More cores = more fluid volume and more surface area to shed heat, but there's no reason to add cooling capacity if you don't need it. In fact it may begin to overwhelm your thermostat if your system isn't balanced. Engine heat output, water pump volume and flow, thermostat and radiator should work tog e ther to damp temperature oscillations. An engine can only be optimal under certain conditions. Running it too cold or hot will make it worse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted August 24, 2020 Share Posted August 24, 2020 If you could, thanks. I came across this website that showed only four brands: APDI, LKQ, One Stop Solutions, and Spectra. Any experience with products from these brands/resellers? Mine is a Spectra CU559 (Non-AC). It is literally identical to the old original 1984 radiator that it replaced. Link below. I've had it installed for 2 years now. No complaints so far. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=271941&cc=1121443&jsn=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Roma Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 If you could, thanks. I came across this website that showed only four brands: APDI, LKQ, One Stop Solutions, and Spectra. Any experience with products from these brands/resellers? Mine is a Spectra CU559 (Non-AC). It is literally identical to the old original 1984 radiator that it replaced. Link below. I've had it installed for 2 years now. No complaints so far. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=271941&cc=1121443&jsn=1 Good to know. The master parts catalog references different radiators for vehicles equipped with different cooling specs, and Super A/C and Regular A/C. What is the difference in the A/Cs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Roma Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 Griffin, Ron Davis and Wizard are popular here in the north east. Aluminum is definitely better at heat transfer than brass, but isn't easily repaired with solder. Anodizing it black helps even more. More cores = more fluid volume and more surface area to shed heat, but there's no reason to add cooling capacity if you don't need it. In fact it may begin to overwhelm your thermostat if your system isn't balanced. Engine heat output, water pump volume and flow, thermostat and radiator should work tog e ther to damp temperature oscillations. An engine can only be optimal under certain conditions. Running it too cold or hot will make it worse. I definitely have a problem with both vehicles. I read a post on ford-trucks where Franklin2 (Dave F) wrote "A pretty smart guy I heard one time say overheating in town means a[n] airflow problem, overheating on the highway means a coolant flow problem." I think I have one of each problem. The 302 hood is too hot to touch when running and even after shut-off yet the gauge has never hit H and usually rests in the middle of C-H, and the 351 hits H on the temp gauge on the highway, always. Some good advice in the above post said to get a temp gun to know exactly what Im starting with, which I've yet to do, but I was thinking it could be a combination of radiator, thermostat, water pump, maybe all three. The 302 has an aluminum rad from the PO, so that could be an issue, and the 351 seems to lose coolant regularly, especially noticeable after a highway run, but in an obscured way. I'm suspecting the pump is at fault, but I don't notice the outpouring/dripping/seeping of green rad fluid anywhere. That said, the front of the 351 motor is coated in a film of caked on old oil, so I will have to look harder. I cleaned it off some of the key parts with CRC Brakleen, which was very effective, but now I regret that I removed a filthy yet protective layer of rustproofing. A lot going on here, hence the myriad of questions/statements. Pointers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 I definitely have a problem with both vehicles. I read a post on ford-trucks where Franklin2 (Dave F) wrote "A pretty smart guy I heard one time say overheating in town means a[n] airflow problem, overheating on the highway means a coolant flow problem." I think I have one of each problem. The 302 hood is too hot to touch when running and even after shut-off yet the gauge has never hit H and usually rests in the middle of C-H, and the 351 hits H on the temp gauge on the highway, always. Some good advice in the above post said to get a temp gun to know exactly what Im starting with, which I've yet to do, but I was thinking it could be a combination of radiator, thermostat, water pump, maybe all three. The 302 has an aluminum rad from the PO, so that could be an issue, and the 351 seems to lose coolant regularly, especially noticeable after a highway run, but in an obscured way. I'm suspecting the pump is at fault, but I don't notice the outpouring/dripping/seeping of green rad fluid anywhere. That said, the front of the 351 motor is coated in a film of caked on old oil, so I will have to look harder. I cleaned it off some of the key parts with CRC Brakleen, which was very effective, but now I regret that I removed a filthy yet protective layer of rustproofing. A lot going on here, hence the myriad of questions/statements. Pointers? The IR thermometer is good advice. One thing I would always do is compare upper to lower radiator hoses. (Yes, I know rubber isn't ideal, but what is important is the temp drop across the radiator.) Check the thermostat housing, and if yours is chrome put a piece of masking tape on it to measure. On the 351, check for combustion byproducts in the coolant A kit or little bottle of the fluid is a lot cheaper than an entire engine. Does the 302 have a good tight fitting shroud on that aluminum radiator? Does it have the stock clutch fan? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 25, 2020 Share Posted August 25, 2020 The IR thermometer is good advice. One thing I would always do is compare upper to lower radiator hoses. (Yes, I know rubber isn't ideal, but what is important is the temp drop across the radiator.) Check the thermostat housing, and if yours is chrome put a piece of masking tape on it to measure. On the 351, check for combustion byproducts in the coolant A kit or little bottle of the fluid is a lot cheaper than an entire engine. Does the 302 have a good tight fitting shroud on that aluminum radiator? Does it have the stock clutch fan? Vic, I'm sorry no one else seems to have any good ideas for you. But I'm sure you can get your cooling problems solved. Diagnosis is a step by step process. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vic Roma Posted August 27, 2020 Share Posted August 27, 2020 The IR thermometer is good advice. One thing I would always do is compare upper to lower radiator hoses. (Yes, I know rubber isn't ideal, but what is important is the temp drop across the radiator.) Check the thermostat housing, and if yours is chrome put a piece of masking tape on it to measure. On the 351, check for combustion byproducts in the coolant A kit or little bottle of the fluid is a lot cheaper than an entire engine. Does the 302 have a good tight fitting shroud on that aluminum radiator? Does it have the stock clutch fan? Thanks, Jim. When you write "On the 351, check for combustion byproducts in the coolant" do you mean take out the overflow pipe and check the radiator reservoir bottle for bubbling, in case there is a leaking gasket? As for the 302... "Does the 302 have a good tight fitting shroud on that aluminum radiator?" I believe so. I tested the airflow through the radiator with a shop towel and it stuck to the outside of the grille, which suggests the fan is working as it should, drawing in sufficient air with all blades are intact. "Does it have the stock clutch fan?" I believe it does, haven't checked the fan for any engineering marks/labels, but I will do so and revert. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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