Ignition lock cylinder busted?

[swampedout]

So in the mornings, Ive had to turn the key really hard to get it into the start position. I have to put on gloves. And im not Mr. Atlas but I work with my hands so...

Whatever was causing the binding just gave way. Surprisingly not in the cold morning though. Leaving work, I turn the key to crank the truck and it did a full rotation and now spins and spins but does not engage anything.

I removed the key and unplugged the batts because the ignition switch was stuck on ON and Ive drained enough batteries in my life already.

I bought a new lock cylinder and key set. Im hoping this is the problem.

Question 1: Can I pop the cylinder out if its not in the ON position?

Question 2: what would it be if it wasnt the lock cylinder?

And lastly: If all else fails, whats the easiest way to hotwire the truck without messing up a bunch of wires?

Thanks everyone

[ArdWrknTrk]

You can take a pair of channelocks and grab the 'ears' of the chrome collar around the cylinder and twist, to break it out.

The teeth stripped off the actuator rack.

It's stuck 'ON', so I assume you're talking about getting the starter to spin it over.

First, make sure it's in park, or neutral. When you reconnect the battery use a metallic object to -electrically- connect the hot+ stud of the starter relay to the small 'S' stud (red/blue wire mounts here)

The starter will turn it over, and if the ignition is on, off you go.

[swampedout]

You can take a pair of channelocks and grab the 'ears' of the chrome collar around the cylinder and twist, to break it out.

The teeth stripped off the actuator rack.

It's stuck 'ON', so I assume you're talking about getting the starter to spin it over.

First, make sure it's in park, or neutral. When you reconnect the battery use a metallic object to -electrically- connect the hot+ stud of the starter relay to the small 'S' stud (red/blue wire mounts here)

The starter will turn it over, and if the ignition is on, off you go.

Thanks for the advice.

Just to clarify,

You think the teeth stripped out of the key cylinder?

And the s stud is on the regulator?

Apologies for the stupid questions, its been a long day.

[swampedout]

Thanks for the advice.

Just to clarify,

You think the teeth stripped out of the key cylinder?

And the s stud is on the regulator?

Apologies for the stupid questions, its been a long day.

I see. The actuator rack is a seperate piece.

[BeagleRock]

I see. The actuator rack is a seperate piece.

I believe the "S" he's referring to is on the solenoid not the regulator.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks for the advice.

Just to clarify,

You think the teeth stripped out of the key cylinder?

And the s stud is on the regulator?

Apologies for the stupid questions, its been a long day.

^^^ Correct.

The little 's' stud is on the relay and takes signal from the fully forward START position of the ignition switch.

It's usually a 90* connector.

There's just too many functions going through the ignition switch plug to easily unplug it and make a jumper

... and if you're having to pop the hood to disconnect the battery anyhow.

[swampedout]

^^^ Correct.

The little 's' stud is on the relay and takes signal from the fully forward START position of the ignition switch.

It's usually a 90* connector.

There's just too many functions going through the ignition switch plug to easily unplug it and make a jumper

... and if you're having to pop the hood to disconnect the battery anyhow.

Yea i looked at a diagram of the ign switch and saw a bunch of wires. Im hoping the truck is really stuck in ON but the fuel pump is going so it should be.

Thanks gentlemen!

I really appreciate the help

[swampedout]

Yea i looked at a diagram of the ign switch and saw a bunch of wires. Im hoping the truck is really stuck in ON but the fuel pump is going so it should be.

Thanks gentlemen!

I really appreciate the help

We did a test jump. It worked.

So now my question is when I open up the column, what parts do I need?

https://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/nontilt.php

This is actually a gm diagram but its the closest i can find.

Edit

https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/72346_1

This should be right.

Im looking at the actuator and the sector gear?

And does anyone know if the actuator is different for tiltand nontilt columns?

[swampedout]

We did a test jump. It worked.

So now my question is when I open up the column, what parts do I need?

https://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/nontilt.php

This is actually a gm diagram but its the closest i can find.

Edit

https://www.supermotors.net/registry/media/72346_1

This should be right.

Im looking at the actuator and the sector gear?

And does anyone know if the actuator is different for tiltand nontilt columns?

https://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/ford/old-ignition-actuators.php

Here is a parts breakdown.

Im hoping I can find what I need at Napa even if its aftermarket.

[ArdWrknTrk]

https://www.steeringcolumnservices.com/ford/old-ignition-actuators.php

Here is a parts breakdown.

Im hoping I can find what I need at Napa even if its aftermarket.

I have 'Standard Automotive Products' cylinders.

The rack you can get from Dorman, maybe even in the HELP section.