Ford F834 Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 Took a bit of time to look at the OD lockout switch and the bezel today. On the '90 the switch fastens to the back of the external bezel, which then attaches to the instrument bezel - much like the fog lamp bezel on the Bullnose trucks. And the switch itself gets pushed through a hole in the instrument bezel. So, I'll have to do something like that if I want to create a bezel for the switch on Dad's truck. However, I will also look at the trucks with a switch on the end of the shift lever. Anyway, I ordered the fog lamp bezel printed in High Definition Acrylate, as shown below. Shipping is guestimated for January 30th. Hi Gary, Thanks for your order! Before we start manufacturing your product(s), our 3D printing experts will manually review the designs. Given the complex nature of 3D printing, we sometimes catch designs that are too fragile to create. If this happens with any item in your order, we will notify you and you will not have to pay for it. You'll be able to view the status of your payment on your Order Status Page. Once we get the green light, we'll create your product(s) using the highest quality 3D printers. When it ships, you'll receive an email with tracking information. Order #2078071 contains: 1x Bezel as of 121817 - Studs Not Added in Black Hi-Def Acrylate Gary, I misunderstood that you are looking at making a bezel to mount a specific switch. In my case all I would need is a fog lamp bezel where the words "fog lamps" would be replaced by "overdrive" and wire the device through a toggle switch rather than the one supplied by DNE or GV. I would like to use the 83/84 upshift indicator lens on the cluster bezel to indicate when the overdrive is engaged. These are the switches I would like to get away from: One step at a time though, I'm not totally sure that the '81 even needs more overdrive and for the diesel I may decide to re-gear instead. Overdrives accomplish an important goal but they are not necessarily the best solution 😐 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 Gary, I misunderstood that you are looking at making a bezel to mount a specific switch. In my case all I would need is a fog lamp bezel where the words "fog lamps" would be replaced by "overdrive" and wire the device through a toggle switch rather than the one supplied by DNE or GV. I would like to use the 83/84 upshift indicator lens on the cluster bezel to indicate when the overdrive is engaged. These are the switches I would like to get away from: One step at a time though, I'm not totally sure that the '81 even needs more overdrive and for the diesel I may decide to re-gear instead. Overdrives accomplish an important goal but they are not necessarily the best solution 😐 Good points about OD's and gearing. As for the lettering, easy peasy - but we still have to find the right switch, for either fog lamps or over drives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 Gary, I misunderstood that you are looking at making a bezel to mount a specific switch. In my case all I would need is a fog lamp bezel where the words "fog lamps" would be replaced by "overdrive" and wire the device through a toggle switch rather than the one supplied by DNE or GV. I would like to use the 83/84 upshift indicator lens on the cluster bezel to indicate when the overdrive is engaged. These are the switches I would like to get away from: One step at a time though, I'm not totally sure that the '81 even needs more overdrive and for the diesel I may decide to re-gear instead. Overdrives accomplish an important goal but they are not necessarily the best solution 😐 Thought of you guys [re: OD switch quest] when I saw this... I believe the switch might cancel after a certain time interval, though. https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/igUAAOSwgDRZcPDg/s-l1600.jpg https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1985-1986-FORD-BRONCO-REAR-WINDOW-DEFROSTER-SWITCH-AND-BRACKET/372026518203?epid=1111255490&hash=item569e822abb:g:igUAAOSwgDRZcPDg&vxp=mtr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 25, 2018 Share Posted January 25, 2018 Thought of you guys [re: OD switch quest] when I saw this... I believe the switch might cancel after a certain time interval, though. https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/igUAAOSwgDRZcPDg/s-l1600.jpg https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1985-1986-FORD-BRONCO-REAR-WINDOW-DEFROSTER-SWITCH-AND-BRACKET/372026518203?epid=1111255490&hash=item569e822abb:g:igUAAOSwgDRZcPDg&vxp=mtr Yes, I suspect it turns off after X minutes. And it is pricey, so I don't think I'd buy it hoping that it'll fit with our bezel. But, it is an option to put under the dash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reamer Posted January 26, 2018 Author Share Posted January 26, 2018 Yes, I suspect it turns off after X minutes. And it is pricey, so I don't think I'd buy it hoping that it'll fit with our bezel. But, it is an option to put under the dash. So I Just got back from a week of training in Atlanta (home office) at MacDermid Graphic Solutions, We have a tech-geek that "plays" with large format platters and ink-jet printers. What I didn't know is he has numerous 3-D printers at home and has been "side R&D-ing" them. He came up to me and said "I heard you started in 3-D printing" and I told him of this situation and the font issue, He eagerly wanted the file to look at it. So I had the file on my laptop, so he now has it, He came back a few hours later and said there are definite problems of how they are applied to the bezel and can fix it. So after a few more hours he is still ironing out the font and how it is "mounted" to the face. he said he thinks he has a solution, he will split Gary's file in half (like an English muffin). Part 1, he will make 1/2 of base and studs, (studs up), then in a separate file, he will make the other half, face-up and then epoxy together. So lets see what happens with "version 2.1"..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 So I Just got back from a week of training in Atlanta (home office) at MacDermid Graphic Solutions, We have a tech-geek that "plays" with large format platters and ink-jet printers. What I didn't know is he has numerous 3-D printers at home and has been "side R&D-ing" them. He came up to me and said "I heard you started in 3-D printing" and I told him of this situation and the font issue, He eagerly wanted the file to look at it. So I had the file on my laptop, so he now has it, He came back a few hours later and said there are definite problems of how they are applied to the bezel and can fix it. So after a few more hours he is still ironing out the font and how it is "mounted" to the face. he said he thinks he has a solution, he will split Gary's file in half (like an English muffin). Part 1, he will make 1/2 of base and studs, (studs up), then in a separate file, he will make the other half, face-up and then epoxy together. So lets see what happens with "version 2.1"..... Interesting. However, I have a file in which the letters are not attached to the base if that would help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 Yes, I suspect it turns off after X minutes. And it is pricey, so I don't think I'd buy it hoping that it'll fit with our bezel. But, it is an option to put under the dash. A guy on Facebook was messing with one of these defroster switches and it is on a timer circuit. They do come up in the junkyard but i don't think it would be adaptable for fog lights. I did notice that the '68 has an emergency flasher switch in the glove box that could potentially work, but it might not be much easier to find than the fog light switch unless someone makes an aftermarket replacement: Gary the other factor with the overdrive switch bezel will be which instrument bezel I actually install in the truck. If it's a cloned stunt double then anything goes... but if the NOS one is used I'm not cutting it!!! 😬 Edit: the emergency flasher switch seems to be generally available on eBay with prices from $10 to $100 or new for about $45. The toggle is too short but could possibly be fitted with an extension... https://www.dearbornclassics.com/1968-ford-emergency-flasher-switch.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 So I Just got back from a week of training in Atlanta (home office) at MacDermid Graphic Solutions, We have a tech-geek that "plays" with large format platters and ink-jet printers. What I didn't know is he has numerous 3-D printers at home and has been "side R&D-ing" them. He came up to me and said "I heard you started in 3-D printing" and I told him of this situation and the font issue, He eagerly wanted the file to look at it. So I had the file on my laptop, so he now has it, He came back a few hours later and said there are definite problems of how they are applied to the bezel and can fix it. So after a few more hours he is still ironing out the font and how it is "mounted" to the face. he said he thinks he has a solution, he will split Gary's file in half (like an English muffin). Part 1, he will make 1/2 of base and studs, (studs up), then in a separate file, he will make the other half, face-up and then epoxy together. So lets see what happens with "version 2.1"..... If it is made in ABS, PLA, or acrylic he would be better off solvent welding them to create a monolithic part than trying to epoxy them together. For that matter, epoxy doesn't usually stick well to Nylon either. Some (like G5 -with proper surface prep-) will hold, but again fusion is a better answer. (ETA) and with Nylon "fusion" would mean using heat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 26, 2018 Share Posted January 26, 2018 If it is made in ABS, PLA, or acrylic he would be better off solvent welding them to create a monolithic part than trying to epoxy them together. For that matter, epoxy doesn't usually stick well to Nylon either. Some (like G5 -with proper surface prep-) will hold, but again fusion is a better answer. (ETA) and with Nylon "fusion" would mean using heat. Jonathan - I don't blame you for not cutting that beautiful bezel! But, there's gotta be a way to make stunt doubles. As for an add-on switch somewhere, I'm planning on placing some switches in the ash tray for Big Blue. Jim - I agree that gluing is a poor idea. I'm sending the file to Ron to see what his guy can do with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reamer Posted January 26, 2018 Author Share Posted January 26, 2018 Jonathan - I don't blame you for not cutting that beautiful bezel! But, there's gotta be a way to make stunt doubles. As for an add-on switch somewhere, I'm planning on placing some switches in the ash tray for Big Blue. Jim - I agree that gluing is a poor idea. I'm sending the file to Ron to see what his guy can do with it. Still working on the new commercially available switch I got. It will handle up to 50 amps.. I have not mocked up the switch/bezel onto the spare gray dash superstructure I have... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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