Papelione Posted September 29, 2020 Author Share Posted September 29, 2020 Aluminium tubing arrived now, very Nice to work With, steel tubing will arrive Next week. My flaring tool only makes 45 degree double flares, They will fit nicely with AN-6 3/8 and 5/16- pipe to hose fittings. Wish I had a bead flaring tool, but would have needed one for 5/16 and one for 3/8 and they are 150 dollar each before shipping and customs……. No his last entry in this thread was sept. 17. All well Jim? :=) Status now is: Rear tank installed with cut out from a old yoga Matt as vibrations dampening. Everything from rear tank to TSV is new, made a filler neck hose out of a new one that was suppose to fit the front tank, filler neck turned out fine after the acid treatment. Alu tubing was a pleasure working with. Installed until I get til AN fittings so I can see were to cut them. When the fittings arrive I think Im done and will test it and put back the bed, looking forward to first test run with new pumps. Hope you all are well. Picture from today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted September 29, 2020 Share Posted September 29, 2020 Status now is: Rear tank installed with cut out from a old yoga Matt as vibrations dampening. Everything from rear tank to TSV is new, made a filler neck hose out of a new one that was suppose to fit the front tank, filler neck turned out fine after the acid treatment. Alu tubing was a pleasure working with. Installed until I get til AN fittings so I can see were to cut them. When the fittings arrive I think Im done and will test it and put back the bed, looking forward to first test run with new pumps. Hope you all are well. Picture from today. Great progress! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 29, 2020 Share Posted September 29, 2020 Status now is: Rear tank installed with cut out from a old yoga Matt as vibrations dampening. Everything from rear tank to TSV is new, made a filler neck hose out of a new one that was suppose to fit the front tank, filler neck turned out fine after the acid treatment. Alu tubing was a pleasure working with. Installed until I get til AN fittings so I can see were to cut them. When the fittings arrive I think Im done and will test it and put back the bed, looking forward to first test run with new pumps. Hope you all are well. Picture from today. Well done, Christian! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papelione Posted October 2, 2020 Author Share Posted October 2, 2020 Well done, Christian! Thx guys Kept on with final hose and fuel line fitting today, got the rear lines and hoses fitted, but when I put the power plug on the rear fuel pump, pump starts running! The plug has power even with key in off position, no blinking. Obviously this a something that needs sorting out before I can get the bed back on With key in "run", rear pump cuts out and front pump runs, if I I switch tank to rear in "run" rear tank will run. If I read the diagram right neither pump should be running if Oil pressure is not closed which it only should in "crank" or with engine running? Don't mind the red box it was from a earlier post:=) Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 2, 2020 Share Posted October 2, 2020 Thx guys Kept on with final hose and fuel line fitting today, got the rear lines and hoses fitted, but when I put the power plug on the rear fuel pump, pump starts running! The plug has power even with key in off position, no blinking. Obviously this a something that needs sorting out before I can get the bed back on With key in "run", rear pump cuts out and front pump runs, if I I switch tank to rear in "run" rear tank will run. If I read the diagram right neither pump should be running if Oil pressure is not closed which it only should in "crank" or with engine running? Don't mind the red box it was from a earlier post:=) You are right, that's not right. There should only be power in Start or in Run with the oil pressure switch closed. If it was me I'd do these tests in Run but with engine off: Check the Pink/black wire at the tank selector relay. It should not have power in Run w/the engine off, and if it does you need to figure out why. Pull the fuel pump cutoff relay out and see if the power on the pink/black wire goes away. Put the relay back - does it click as you install it? Shouldn't, but if it doesn't and yet there's now power on the pink/black wire the relay may be welded shut If the relay clicks when you put it back that suggests that it isn't welded shut but is being pulled in. See that the R/Y wire to the fuel pump cutoff relay doesn't have power Does that make sense? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papelione Posted October 2, 2020 Author Share Posted October 2, 2020 You are right, that's not right. There should only be power in Start or in Run with the oil pressure switch closed. If it was me I'd do these tests in Run but with engine off: Check the Pink/black wire at the tank selector relay. It should not have power in Run w/the engine off, and if it does you need to figure out why. Pull the fuel pump cutoff relay out and see if the power on the pink/black wire goes away. Put the relay back - does it click as you install it? Shouldn't, but if it doesn't and yet there's now power on the pink/black wire the relay may be welded shut If the relay clicks when you put it back that suggests that it isn't welded shut but is being pulled in. See that the R/Y wire to the fuel pump cutoff relay doesn't have power Does that make sense? Thx Gary Its night time here now, earlier and earlier..... But could´nt wait Check the Pink/black wire at the tank selector relay. It should not have power in Run w/the engine off, and if it does you need to figure out why. It does have power, with key in "off" Pull the fuel pump cutoff relay out and see if the power on the pink/black wire goes away. It stays on Put the relay back - does it click as you install it? Shouldn't, but if it doesn't and yet there's now power on the pink/black wire the relay may be welded shut No clicking If the relay clicks when you put it back that suggests that it isn't welded shut but is being pulled in. See that the R/Y wire to the fuel pump cutoff relay doesn't have power It does not If pink and blk wire is always hot, that mean fuse link T is always hot, even though it should only be hot in start. Fuse link T is powered via the starter relay, and therefore should be placed at "S" terminal there. But to me it looks like it is placed directly to the + terminal at the battery. Might that be the reason to this, and placing it at the "S" terminal would solve the problem? Pink arrow shows Fuse link T current position /Christian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 2, 2020 Share Posted October 2, 2020 Thx Gary Its night time here now, earlier and earlier..... But could´nt wait Check the Pink/black wire at the tank selector relay. It should not have power in Run w/the engine off, and if it does you need to figure out why. It does have power, with key in "off" Pull the fuel pump cutoff relay out and see if the power on the pink/black wire goes away. It stays on Put the relay back - does it click as you install it? Shouldn't, but if it doesn't and yet there's now power on the pink/black wire the relay may be welded shut No clicking If the relay clicks when you put it back that suggests that it isn't welded shut but is being pulled in. See that the R/Y wire to the fuel pump cutoff relay doesn't have power It does not If pink and blk wire is always hot, that mean fuse link T is always hot, even though it should only be hot in start. Fuse link T is powered via the starter relay, and therefore should be placed at "S" terminal there. But to me it looks like it is placed directly to the + terminal at the battery. Might that be the reason to this, and placing it at the "S" terminal would solve the problem? Pink arrow shows Fuse link T current position /Christian Yes! Fuse Link T is in the wrong spot. It should be on the other side of the fender-mounted starter relay, and that should solve the problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papelione Posted October 3, 2020 Author Share Posted October 3, 2020 Yes! Fuse Link T is in the wrong spot. It should be on the other side of the fender-mounted starter relay, and that should solve the problem. Got a little work done today. Finished connecting the tubes and hoses with the AN fuel fittings, they where nice to work with. Also placed Fuse link T at "I" terminal, that made it right pumps will only start in "start". Tested with truck in idle, and happy to report that rear system works (pump and sender) and connections are dry. Same thing with the front system. Feels like I now have a more reliable setup, safer none the least. Also the shear coolness of having two tanks and being able to switch between them, love that Im back to stock setup. Still haven't seen Motorcraft pumps, have you guys? Next is bed install:=) (Picture of AN fittings rear tube connecting to TSV hoses.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 4, 2020 Share Posted October 4, 2020 Got a little work done today. Finished connecting the tubes and hoses with the AN fuel fittings, they where nice to work with. Also placed Fuse link T at "I" terminal, that made it right pumps will only start in "start". Tested with truck in idle, and happy to report that rear system works (pump and sender) and connections are dry. Same thing with the front system. Feels like I now have a more reliable setup, safer none the least. Also the shear coolness of having two tanks and being able to switch between them, love that Im back to stock setup. Still haven't seen Motorcraft pumps, have you guys? Next is bed install:=) (Picture of AN fittings rear tube connecting to TSV hoses.) Well done, Christian!!!! That looks very good. And you have two tanks. Cool! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papelione Posted May 8, 2021 Author Share Posted May 8, 2021 Well done, Christian!!!! That looks very good. And you have two tanks. Cool! Spring at last. It has been long 6 month since "Brownie" went in to winter storage. A lot has happened during that time. And many times I missed tinkering with the truck. Spring is coming to Narvik again, (snowing today though). The dual tank project was finished I thought, a couple of days after the last post. The sender unit on the front pump stopped sending, and I couldn't fill the front tank at anything other than extremely slow. Truck is in garage and I will once again take of the bed, and change the pump and check for kinks in the filler hose og if the tank vent cap is not working, new parts is in place. Cant wait to get started again :=) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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