Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

[Gary Lewis]

Preparing while waiting for parts, should be here next week.

Been installing new fuel hoses in the engine compartment, and removing the add-on fuel pump there.

Today I took down the rear fuel tank, which was a bit troublesome, but eventually I got it out.

The missus was not too pleased with the gasoline smell in the driveway, but the skies eventually cleared up:=)

But when I dismantling the filler pipe and hose from the tank, The pipe was full of rust. I don't see any way the cleaning this, except maybe taking of the pipe and submerge the filler pipe in Hydrochloric acid?

Stupid or would that clean it up?

The alternative is to buy a new one off course, LMC has the parts need but they state that it´s for later 87-onwards model, but maybe it would fit?

Part "7" and maybe part "9"

See pictures below.

Part number 43-339

Looks pretty close to mine....

I'll let Jim, the chemist, answer the question about cleaning that filler pipe.

But I'll answer about an '87 filler pipe on an earlier tank. Do not do it. It'll take forever to fill the tank at the station.

You can read about it in this post on Big Blue's thread, but an '87 or later filler and a '86 or earlier tank is a bad combination. The reason being that in '87 the fillers changed such that the gas goes down the inner hose instead of the outer hose, like on a Bullnose. But the Bullnose tank has a tab into which the inner hose is supposed to go, but the '87 and later hose won't go there due to its larger size. And turbulence is the result and that makes them very hard to fill. Been there, done that, for a loooooong time.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Preparing while waiting for parts, should be here next week.

Been installing new fuel hoses in the engine compartment, and removing the add-on fuel pump there.

Today I took down the rear fuel tank, which was a bit troublesome, but eventually I got it out.

The missus was not too pleased with the gasoline smell in the driveway, but the skies eventually cleared up:=)

But when I dismantling the filler pipe and hose from the tank, The pipe was full of rust. I don't see any way the cleaning this, except maybe taking of the pipe and submerge the filler pipe in Hydrochloric acid?

Stupid or would that clean it up?

The alternative is to buy a new one off course, LMC has the parts need but they state that it´s for later 87-onwards model, but maybe it would fit?

Part "7" and maybe part "9"

See pictures below.

Part number 43-339

Looks pretty close to mine....

The '87/ trucks flow fuel through the centre and vent around the circumference.

This makes for smoother filling (as Gary can recently attest) but the two parts do not interchange.

Hydrochloric acid will burn the rust off, but it will also remove any galvanizing.

If you do this, it would be wise to follow up with mild phosphoric acid rinse to create a passive layer on the vent tube.

[Papelione]

The '87/ trucks flow fuel through the centre and vent around the circumference.

This makes for smoother filling (as Gary can recently attest) but the two parts do not interchange.

Hydrochloric acid will burn the rust off, but it will also remove any galvanizing.

If you do this, it would be wise to follow up with mild phosphoric acid rinse to create a passive layer on the vent tube.

Thx

Will try with acid. Just bought 36% HCL at the hardware store.

Thinking a dilution 1:1 with water, and have baking soda and water as a safety precaution.

Phosforic acid "PA", sounds like a good idea.

Looks like it is used in desinfektion for home brewing beer, I can get a 10% "PA".

Would that do the trick?

Should I treat with "PA" right after the HCL treatment or just use it some time before reinstalling?

Was thinking I should rinse the HCL mix off with water and baking soda wash. And then the"PA"

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thx

Will try with acid. Just bought 36% HCL at the hardware store.

Thinking a dilution 1:1 with water, and have baking soda and water as a safety precaution.

Phosforic acid "PA", sounds like a good idea.

Looks like it is used in desinfektion for home brewing beer, I can get a 10% "PA".

Would that do the trick?

Should I treat with "PA" right after the HCL treatment or just use it some time before reinstalling?

Was thinking I should rinse the HCL mix off with water and baking soda wash. And then the"PA"

Rinse the first HCL off with water and allow the part to air dry.

It will have a light coating of 'flash rust'

No need to make it 'base' before applying another acid.

Then the 10% phosphoric solution will turn this to a protective black phosphate.

[Papelione]

Rinse the first HCL off with water and allow the part to air dry.

It will have a light coating of 'flash rust'

No need to make it 'base' before applying another acid.

Then the 10% phosphoric solution will turn this to a protective black phosphate.

Thank you.

Will give it a go today.

How long time do you think submerged in 18% HCL?

4-5 hours?

[Papelione]

Thank you.

Will give it a go today.

How long time do you think submerged in 18% HCL?

4-5 hours?

Report from the garage i North.

Parts are starting to drop in. This week I should have everything.

Fillerneck was free of rust after a weekend in HCL dilution, will treat it With p_acid today.

Unfortunately, fuel lines from rear tank to TSV was full of Surface rust, ( blew compressed air through them). Ordered aluminium tubes and will buy koning and bending Tools.

New TSV should be here tomorrow.

Frame is clean now, should I treat it With some rust inhibitor? maybe the tank aswell, or is it overkill since it is a 3 season truck, and will problably never drive in snow again , no deep rust on frame what so ever.

/C

[Gary Lewis]

Report from the garage i North.

Parts are starting to drop in. This week I should have everything.

Fillerneck was free of rust after a weekend in HCL dilution, will treat it With p_acid today.

Unfortunately, fuel lines from rear tank to TSV was full of Surface rust, ( blew compressed air through them). Ordered aluminium tubes and will buy koning and bending Tools.

New TSV should be here tomorrow.

Frame is clean now, should I treat it With some rust inhibitor? maybe the tank aswell, or is it overkill since it is a 3 season truck, and will problably never drive in snow again , no deep rust on frame what so ever.

/C

Christian - I'm not sure you should use aluminum for your fuel lines. I'm not up on that so maybe Jim will have a better idea.

On the frame, I'd coat it with something like POR-15 while you have it clean and easily accessable.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Report from the garage i North.

Parts are starting to drop in. This week I should have everything.

Fillerneck was free of rust after a weekend in HCL dilution, will treat it With p_acid today.

Unfortunately, fuel lines from rear tank to TSV was full of Surface rust, ( blew compressed air through them). Ordered aluminium tubes and will buy koning and bending Tools.

New TSV should be here tomorrow.

Frame is clean now, should I treat it With some rust inhibitor? maybe the tank aswell, or is it overkill since it is a 3 season truck, and will problably never drive in snow again , no deep rust on frame what so ever.

/C

I think I would treat the frame if I had the bed off.

You will never have better access, and it is no fun from underneath.

The issue with aluminium is that it has a very limited Young's modulus and readily work hardens.

You would definitely be better off with something like the nickel/copper line as used for brakes.

This won't need to be annealed after forming, and won't act as an anode when attached to a steel frame.

[Papelione]

I think I would treat the frame if I had the bed off.

You will never have better access, and it is no fun from underneath.

The issue with aluminium is that it has a very limited Young's modulus and readily work hardens.

You would definitely be better off with something like the nickel/copper line as used for brakes.

This won't need to be annealed after forming, and won't act as an anode when attached to a steel frame.

Hi

Oh I am sorry too hear that.

Last weekend I was trawling the internet for tubing in the right dimensions.

3/8 and 5/16, but I could only find one of them In copper nickel.

The threads I read recommended steel, but that was hard to bend.

Holley states on its homepage that aluminum is commonly used as fuel lines and just now I called the Swedish vendor that is selling the tubes and he almost laugh at me when I mentioned that all tubing is prone to cracking.

I put you guys in very high regard though, is there any place I can get these dimensions what you know off? if so I will order it.

just to be sure, since it is on the way can I use it ? or is it just stupid?

I was thinking 37,5 degree double flare and fuel hose with clamp, sounds ok?

will find a POR-15 Norwegian variant:=)

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hi

Oh I am sorry too hear that.

Last weekend I was trawling the internet for tubing in the right dimensions.

3/8 and 5/16, but I could only find one of them In copper nickel.

The threads I read recommended steel, but that was hard to bend.

Holley states on its homepage that aluminum is commonly used as fuel lines and just now I called the Swedish vendor that is selling the tubes and he almost laugh at me when I mentioned that all tubing is prone to cracking.

I put you guys in very high regard though, is there any place I can get these dimensions what you know off? if so I will order it.

just to be sure, since it is on the way can I use it ? or is it just stupid?

I was thinking 37,5 degree double flare and fuel hose with clamp, sounds ok?

will find a POR-15 Norwegian variant:=)

I would not fear getting in your truck with aluminium fuel lines, but I don't find steel too hard to bend or flare.

Go ahead and use it!

Stainless steel is a bugger to reverse flare by hand.

Aluminium air con lines are usually annealed and hardened through and through.

But they are not subject to the chloride that a line down on the frame is.

If I had to do this, I would probably have used steel brake line as it comes pre flared with fittings in lengths up to ~3 metres here in the U.S.