Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd

[Gary Lewis]

So, if you look at Pg.106 -above- we see that default (power to valve motor) the sender contacts should be 2 to 1 (by your list)

With it unplugged 2-3 is correct.

This would tell me the valve is stuck in the front tank position, because you do have power at orange (with the harness connected)

Are you able to apply power and ground to the valve while under the truck?

You should feel the valve switch over (unless it is dead)

I've used diaper pins to either pierce the wire insulation or back probe the connector.

Now I have Power Probe leads for my meter that do this for me, but a pin works fine for this.

I don't know that this valve fails to one position or the other like the 3-port valve does. It may be motorized and stay wherever you leave. But I would agree that it appears to be in the Front position at present.

I would disconnect the plug and use small alligator clips to put power to 5 and ground to 4. That should cause the valve to go into the Rear position, and you should be able to determine that because 1 and 2 will be connected.

Then reverse power and ground, with power to 4 and ground to 5. That should put it in Front and then 2 should be connected to 3.

But I don't think it will switch. These valves are the nemesis of this system and frequently fail, and in weird ways - like pulling fuel from the front tank and returning it to the rear tank.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I don't know that this valve fails to one position or the other like the 3-port valve does. It may be motorized and stay wherever you leave. But I would agree that it appears to be in the Front position at present.

I would disconnect the plug and use small alligator clips to put power to 5 and ground to 4. That should cause the valve to go into the Rear position, and you should be able to determine that because 1 and 2 will be connected.

Then reverse power and ground, with power to 4 and ground to 5. That should put it in Front and then 2 should be connected to 3.

But I don't think it will switch. These valves are the nemesis of this system and frequently fail, and in weird ways - like pulling fuel from the front tank and returning it to the rear tank.

For cross flow (return) the seals have to fail, or crud builds up to keep them from seating.

The shuttle happens all at once (feed, return and senders) so if the senders won't switch I would say the shuttle is stuck or the motor is dead.

If all that works, we move farther down the line, and test the pumps.

[Papelione]

For cross flow (return) the seals have to fail, or crud builds up to keep them from seating.

The shuttle happens all at once (feed, return and senders) so if the senders won't switch I would say the shuttle is stuck or the motor is dead.

If all that works, we move farther down the line, and test the pumps.

Ok was out under the truck now.

Power to 5 and ground to 4, used the battery with some extensions, was quite fiddely, as there is so little space. Heard a small clicking sound. But no continuity between 1-2, 2-3 still continuity.

If I am to make a conclusion, it would be that signal to the TSV is correct, but the TSV is not in order?

Would you agree?

Remember signal to the TSV with the connector unplugged was

[Gary Lewis]

Ok was out under the truck now.

Power to 5 and ground to 4, used the battery with some extensions, was quite fiddely, as there is so little space. Heard a small clicking sound. But no continuity between 1-2, 2-3 still continuity.

If I am to make a conclusion, it would be that signal to the TSV is correct, but the TSV is not in order?

Would you agree?

Remember signal to the TSV with the connector unplugged was

Christian - Yes, I agree. But to make 100% sure I've copied over the schematic. It shows that placing power on the orange wire, which is your Pin 5, and ground on the brown/white, which is your Pin 4, should put it in Rear. And that would then connect pins 1 & 2. Since your TSV didn't do that I think it is bad.

But if it was me I'd reverse the power and ground wires and go back and forth a couple of times to see if I could get it to move. Ordering a new one of those to Norway won't be cheap.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Christian - Yes, I agree. But to make 100% sure I've copied over the schematic. It shows that placing power on the orange wire, which is your Pin 5, and ground on the brown/white, which is your Pin 4, should put it in Rear. And that would then connect pins 1 & 2. Since your TSV didn't do that I think it is bad.

But if it was me I'd reverse the power and ground wires and go back and forth a couple of times to see if I could get it to move. Ordering a new one of those to Norway won't be cheap.

You got to it before I did Gary!

Great minds think alike...

Try reversing power and see if the #2 connection changes.

[Papelione]

You got to it before I did Gary!

Great minds think alike...

Try reversing power and see if the #2 connection changes.

OK

Will give it another go in the morning.

Just to make sure I'm doing it right.

Car battery 12 V: wire hooked up to + (power side) And a wire hooked to - (ground side).

alligator clips to the flat terminals 1,2,3,4,5 and touching them with the wire in said order?

Makes sense?

/Christian

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

OK

Will give it another go in the morning.

Just to make sure I'm doing it right.

Car battery 12 V: wire hooked up to + (power side) And a wire hooked to - (ground side).

alligator clips to the flat terminals 1,2,3,4,5 and touching them with the wire in said order?

Makes sense?

/Christian

Connect your meter to 2

Connect battery to +4-5, and then -4+5

Use the other probe of the meter to see if continuity from 2 shifts from 1 to 3, and back again as you swap current direction at 4 and 5

[Papelione]

Connect your meter to 2

Connect battery to +4-5, and then -4+5

Use the other probe of the meter to see if continuity from 2 shifts from 1 to 3, and back again as you swap current direction at 4 and 5

Ok

guess i will have to dismantle the TSV completely, and test it on the bench.

Any risk of getting air in the fuel system? do I need to clamp the fuel lines with pliers to prevent this?

/C

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ok

guess i will have to dismantle the TSV completely, and test it on the bench.

Any risk of getting air in the fuel system? do I need to clamp the fuel lines with pliers to prevent this?

/C

I don't see why you must dismantle it.

Power it one way and check 2 to 1 & 3

Power it the other way and then check 2 to 1 & 3 again..

You have access to the pins with the connector removed.

Just energize it in each direction to see if the shuttle moves. (Contacts shift)

If no, then you know it is faulty.

Here in the US a well made replacement valve is $75 delivered.

I do not know in Norway, but I have ordered from Amazon.de and not paid exorbitant fees.

[Papelione]

I don't see why you must dismantle it.

Power it one way and check 2 to 1 & 3

Power it the other way and then check 2 to 1 & 3 again..

You have access to the pins with the connector removed.

Just energize it in each direction to see if the shuttle moves. (Contacts shift)

If no, then you know it is faulty.

Here in the US a well made replacement valve is $75 delivered.

I do not know in Norway, but I have ordered from Amazon.de and not paid exorbitant fees.

Gave it another go this morning, had a better setup. So it was easier switching "POWER" -"GROUND" on terminals 4 and 5. after a couple of tries I noticed a short humming upon activating the terminals. And continuity would switch between 2-1 and 2-3 according which terminal was given power or ground.

I then tried again this afternoon, and it switches back and forth as were it a new TSV :=)

I guess this tells us the electrical side of the TSV is good, but off course no answer to if ports or valve(?) inside will switch correctly or if this or these are seized in old fuel gum.

Quite enjoy this deep dive in fuel electrical problem on my 84´

Best regards

From Narvik

8 Celsius today...........