Gary Lewis Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 Ok, so in this year the DuraSpark module gets its retard signal from the 121 connector, and only the fuel pump 'prime' override gets power from (I). But Christian can see how either the NSS, or his clutch switch interface with the cab harness. Thank you Gary, for posting these pages that I couldn't find. 🤝 Welcome, Jim. I hope you can now find them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 Welcome, Jim. I hope you can now find them. I can see them all now! 😁🎉 Thanks Gary! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 I can see them all now! 😁🎉 Thanks Gary! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papelione Posted June 22, 2020 Author Share Posted June 22, 2020 Thank you very much, the both of you. If you look at my starter relay I believe "7" is red/ltblue, but it goes to "I", If I don't use the bypass I don't have anything going to "S", hence not starting. Shouldn't Red/ltblue go to "S" and Wire from ICM go to "I", or I am mistaken? /Christian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papelione Posted June 22, 2020 Author Share Posted June 22, 2020 Thank you very much, the both of you. If you look at my starter relay I believe "7" is red/ltblue, but it goes to "I", If I don't use the bypass I don't have anything going to "S", hence not starting. Shouldn't Red/ltblue go to "S" and Wire from ICM go to "I", or I am mistaken? /Christian FIXED!😎 Swapped red/ltblue to "S" instead of "I", and it started right up with key:=) That was with bypass on NSS, so I plugged connector in again, and it started right up. Guess I can disconnect bypass wires " 5 and 6". And Will spend the upcoming time on making better connections to the relay and assembling column once the turn light switch arrives. Thank you forum and ArdWrkTrk for keeping me going. I will keep you posted. /Christian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 FIXED!😎 Swapped red/ltblue to "S" instead of "I", and it started right up with key:=) That was with bypass on NSS, so I plugged connector in again, and it started right up. Guess I can disconnect bypass wires " 5 and 6". And Will spend the upcoming time on making better connections to the relay and assembling column once the turn light switch arrives. Thank you forum and ArdWrkTrk for keeping me going. I will keep you posted. /Christian EXCELLENT! Good job! And many thanks to Jim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papelione Posted June 22, 2020 Author Share Posted June 22, 2020 EXCELLENT! Good job! And many thanks to Jim. Is it reasonably to think problem must have been NSS or Clutch lockout switch (same thing, just the manual variant?) And calibrating it, made it work again? Or why go to all that trouble otherwise? /Christian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 22, 2020 Share Posted June 22, 2020 Is it reasonably to think problem must have been NSS or Clutch lockout switch (same thing, just the manual variant?) And calibrating it, made it work again? Or why go to all that trouble otherwise? /Christian Congratulations! Yes, I think it's quite possible that the switch closing block got too far up the rod and the previous owner did not know how simple it is to adjust. But it seems they also did not know the trick to insert a spare fuse in the connector to bypass the safety. 😉 Sometimes we see someone who has changed that relay on the fender and put the wires back in the wrong places. This is a lot less common with the advent of cell phones, where anyone can snap a picture before taking the wires off, but it still does happen. I'm glad that puzzle is solved, and wish your parts arrive so you can enjoy that truck in the midnight sun! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted June 23, 2020 Share Posted June 23, 2020 Congratulations! Yes, I think it's quite possible that the switch closing block got too far up the rod and the previous owner did not know how simple it is to adjust. But it seems they also did not know the trick to insert a spare fuse in the connector to bypass the safety. 😉 Sometimes we see someone who has changed that relay on the fender and put the wires back in the wrong places. This is a lot less common with the advent of cell phones, where anyone can snap a picture before taking the wires off, but it still does happen. I'm glad that puzzle is solved, and wish your parts arrive so you can enjoy that truck in the midnight sun! Great job gentlemen! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papelione Posted June 26, 2020 Author Share Posted June 26, 2020 Great job gentlemen! Hi Since last I did installed Bilstein dampers in the front, and been cleaning up Connections around the starter relay, and putting the column back together. Got the turn light switch yesterday. Getting the tilt bracket installed again With springs and all was quite a job wont recommend unless one needs to. But it is going the right way and I am happy:=) New and old:=) Next week We will do the bench to bucket seat swap, last time we tried we stopped because holes in seats didn`t line up With those from the bucket seat. When looking at LMC`s homepage they have a bracket to Mount bucket seat on, where seats screw into bracket and bracket has 4 holes, and Im guessing they will fit my holes, and I dont have to drill New ones. Which I would like to avoid if possibel. In the swap my friend needs my bracket so cant use that. Can I use LMC bracket? it is part number 49-5765 Seats I want to install are these, included center consol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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