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Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd


Papelione

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Ok

I will give it another look at the connectors at the bottom of the column.

But isn't O/lb in the green circles ? C305 looks like wire is LG?

If it is a switch problem, isn´t weird that both old and new switch both give same symptoms?

Running lights is with the engine running? :nabble_smiley_blush:

/Christian

Yes, what you have circled is C305 - but only a part of it. Basically, everything on the steering column goes through that connector. Look here:

C305.thumb.jpg.f04f7add9014b4f7abf9d63a222b8f9f.jpg

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Yes, what you have circled is C305 - but only a part of it. Basically, everything on the steering column goes through that connector. Look here:

And right you were:=)

went out and checked the first connector the turn light switch plugs into.

The O/lb wire going out from the female connector, has a slack of about 2 mm.

None of the other wire do. I pushed it in and turn light rear rh functions.

(green arrow)

turn_light_connector.jpg.93ce6271a030ffadf8742ffad9f35893.jpg

Very impressed

It must have happened when I dissembled the column the first time; see my entry from June 11)

And it just lay there waiting for me to fix the key start thing.

Ok, so now I know where problem is.

How would you go about fixing it permanent?

/Christian

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And right you were:=)

went out and checked the first connector the turn light switch plugs into.

The O/lb wire going out from the female connector, has a slack of about 2 mm.

None of the other wire do. I pushed it in and turn light rear rh functions.

(green arrow)

Very impressed

It must have happened when I dissembled the column the first time; see my entry from June 11)

And it just lay there waiting for me to fix the key start thing.

Ok, so now I know where problem is.

How would you go about fixing it permanent?

/Christian

Cool!

For fixing it, if you pull the wire and pin/socket out there should be a "wing" on each side of the pin/socket that snap into a recess in the connector. If you GENTLY bend those wings out SLIGHTLY it should go in, snap, and stay.

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And right you were:=)

went out and checked the first connector the turn light switch plugs into.

The O/lb wire going out from the female connector, has a slack of about 2 mm.

None of the other wire do. I pushed it in and turn light rear rh functions.

(green arrow)

Very impressed

It must have happened when I dissembled the column the first time; see my entry from June 11)

And it just lay there waiting for me to fix the key start thing.

Ok, so now I know where problem is.

How would you go about fixing it permanent?

/Christian

Great diagnosis and resolution! :nabble_smiley_good:

I'm glad you have the answer.

Parking, or running, lights is when the switch knob is pulled out half way.

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Cool!

For fixing it, if you pull the wire and pin/socket out there should be a "wing" on each side of the pin/socket that snap into a recess in the connector. If you GENTLY bend those wings out SLIGHTLY it should go in, snap, and stay.

Uh I chickened out.

Was afraid of snapping it, pushed back with a pair of small pliers. And focused on not putting to much strain on the connector.

Put everything back, rh rear and the rest works pphhhhhhyyy.

Nice feeling.

will give it a day or two, and then its time for new rear dampers.

Thank you for the help.

Good night

Christian

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Uh I chickened out.

Was afraid of snapping it, pushed back with a pair of small pliers. And focused on not putting to much strain on the connector.

Put everything back, rh rear and the rest works pphhhhhhyyy.

Nice feeling.

will give it a day or two, and then its time for new rear dampers.

Thank you for the help.

Good night

Christian

There's really nothing to worry about. The pin will look something like the one below, where the red arrows point to the "wings" I mentioned. The one in the pic has several of them but the Ford ones usually have 2 or 3. If they aren't catching, just bend them out slightly so they'll catch in the connector when slipped in.

As for how you get them out, you use the tool at the top, which presses the "wings" in and lets you pull the pin out.

Pin_with_Wings.thumb.jpg.a9c1cc8eaf9cc421338a7077fdf0edc4.jpg

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There's really nothing to worry about. The pin will look something like the one below, where the red arrows point to the "wings" I mentioned. The one in the pic has several of them but the Ford ones usually have 2 or 3. If they aren't catching, just bend them out slightly so they'll catch in the connector when slipped in.

As for how you get them out, you use the tool at the top, which presses the "wings" in and lets you pull the pin out.

Ok neat

what is that tool called? guess you use that from the pointy side of the pin and it slides over and folds the wings in?

/C

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Ok neat

what is that tool called? guess you use that from the pointy side of the pin and it slides over and folds the wings in?

/C

I don't know the exact name. I just Googled "electrical terminal removal tool" and found this set of tools on Amazon. Don't know if this would work on the ones on our trucks though.

Yes, it goes over the pointy end and folds the wings in.

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I don't know the exact name. I just Googled "electrical terminal removal tool" and found this set of tools on Amazon. Don't know if this would work on the ones on our trucks though.

Yes, it goes over the pointy end and folds the wings in.

Ok, look like a neat tool to have, for those times when you need it.

Went out this morning for some small arrends, fuse went blew again and no turn light!

Back home I was sure it was the slightly bend but original locking that had misaligned it self.

Took of steering wheel and noticed some white dust and scrape marks under the wheel.

(before all this I put the original steering wheel back on, bought truck with aftermarket wheel).

Lockring was in place, but on steering wheel backside more white dust or shavings.

With wheel off and new fuse, everything works.

Took a closer look at steering wheel base, and to me it looks like the base is slightly uneven and its touch

the cam on the turn light switch and area over hazard connections.

Put back aftermarket wheel, and with this on everything works. Will do a new test run tomorrow, and well see.

Problem is I really like the look of original wheel, I´ve see the horn is possible to buy, but not entire wheel...

pictures og steering wheel base below.

Thoughts? :=)

/Christian

From a far

rat_fjern.jpg.78a15b1eed3f6565691ee537b2cd9710.jpg

And close up, as close to 90 degree angel I could take the photo.

rat_tet.jpg.4611578c87695b5e8db4769a27d3e051.jpg

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Ok, look like a neat tool to have, for those times when you need it.

Went out this morning for some small arrends, fuse went blew again and no turn light!

Back home I was sure it was the slightly bend but original locking that had misaligned it self.

Took of steering wheel and noticed some white dust and scrape marks under the wheel.

(before all this I put the original steering wheel back on, bought truck with aftermarket wheel).

Lockring was in place, but on steering wheel backside more white dust or shavings.

With wheel off and new fuse, everything works.

Took a closer look at steering wheel base, and to me it looks like the base is slightly uneven and its touch

the cam on the turn light switch and area over hazard connections.

Put back aftermarket wheel, and with this on everything works. Will do a new test run tomorrow, and well see.

Problem is I really like the look of original wheel, I´ve see the horn is possible to buy, but not entire wheel...

pictures og steering wheel base below.

Thoughts? :=)

/Christian

From a far

And close up, as close to 90 degree angel I could take the photo.

Christian - I see what you are saying about the steering wheel. If the aftermarket wheel works but you want to use the original one, can you test it by placing electrical tape on the wheel? It wouldn't be a permanent fix, but it might prove you are onto something.

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