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Norwegian F250, 1984, 460, 2wd


Papelione

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Ok, so no easy fix through LMC, good to know. since it is an expensive bracket.:=)

I will give it a try, but then there's the difference between the holes 28 vs 40 cm.

Just drill new ones and use bolts?, ( feels kind a wrong).

See if if I can give it a try during the weekend.

Also got the column back together, now tilt works ( remember did´nt think I had one).

Fuse to turn lights keept blowing on right turn, turns out I had a corroded rear turn light right side.

Thing I might try LED´s with bayonet.

Turn lights work and truck starts from key.

Test ride afterwards, much improved handling on bumpy road, just need to get the rear ones in.

Celebrated with a cold beer:=)

Have Good Friday, to all who is reading.

Time here is past midnight.

Good night.

/Christian

Always nice to celebrate with a cold one!

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Ok, so no easy fix through LMC, good to know. since it is an expensive bracket.:=)

I will give it a try, but then there's the difference between the holes 28 vs 40 cm.

Just drill new ones and use bolts?, ( feels kind a wrong).

See if if I can give it a try during the weekend.

Also got the column back together, now tilt works ( remember did´nt think I had one).

Fuse to turn lights keept blowing on right turn, turns out I had a corroded rear turn light right side.

Thing I might try LED´s with bayonet.

Turn lights work and truck starts from key.

Test ride afterwards, much improved handling on bumpy road, just need to get the rear ones in.

Celebrated with a cold beer:=)

Have Good Friday, to all who is reading.

Time here is past midnight.

Good night.

/Christian

I think you should see if the brackets will fit. And I don't think you'll have to drill holes. I hope.

But I agree that drilling holes is not the way to do it. Most of these trucks have reinforcement for where the seats bolt in, so I don't think it is right to just drill a hole in an unsupported place.

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I think you should see if the brackets will fit. And I don't think you'll have to drill holes. I hope.

But I agree that drilling holes is not the way to do it. Most of these trucks have reinforcement for where the seats bolt in, so I don't think it is right to just drill a hole in an unsupported place.

Havn´t gotten around to test the brackets yet.

Unfortunately the turn signal is not working again.

Fuse keeps on blowing on right turn, left is ok

Took the column apart again, and it looks like the replacement lock ring( to hold outer bearing in place) wasn't up for the job. It was bend and misaligned, maybe creating a short with the switch.

Put in the original slightly bend lockring, which wasn't a bad fit.

And now Fuse don't blow, left hand is still ok. Right hand side the arrow just stays on with no blinking.

Tried with two other flashers same result.

At one point right hand was flashing in the inst panel and I started putting everything back together, but then it stayed one.

Both turn signal bulb broke when I took them out to check. They were old.

Is the staying on an safety signal that there is a bulb defect.

Or is there just something wrong?

Actually tried putting in the old turn light switch, and same result.

Will test with fresh bulbs in the morning, when shops open.

A little tired and annoyed......

:=)

 

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Havn´t gotten around to test the brackets yet.

Unfortunately the turn signal is not working again.

Fuse keeps on blowing on right turn, left is ok

Took the column apart again, and it looks like the replacement lock ring( to hold outer bearing in place) wasn't up for the job. It was bend and misaligned, maybe creating a short with the switch.

Put in the original slightly bend lockring, which wasn't a bad fit.

And now Fuse don't blow, left hand is still ok. Right hand side the arrow just stays on with no blinking.

Tried with two other flashers same result.

At one point right hand was flashing in the inst panel and I started putting everything back together, but then it stayed one.

Both turn signal bulb broke when I took them out to check. They were old.

Is the staying on an safety signal that there is a bulb defect.

Or is there just something wrong?

Actually tried putting in the old turn light switch, and same result.

Will test with fresh bulbs in the morning, when shops open.

A little tired and annoyed......

:=)

Yes, it is a "feature", and maybe a safety feature.

The flasher is designed to flash at the correct rate given the current of all the bulbs. But with fewer bulbs, meaning less current, it doesn't have enough heat from the current to cause it to flash. So the bulbs stay on.

If you replace the flasher with one designed for toying a trailer, which means you'd have more bulbs, or for LED's, which means there'd be less current, then it'll flash at a given rate no matter how many bulbs of what kind you have. But with the stock flasher you have to have all the bulbs to get it to flash correctly.

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Yes, it is a "feature", and maybe a safety feature.

The flasher is designed to flash at the correct rate given the current of all the bulbs. But with fewer bulbs, meaning less current, it doesn't have enough heat from the current to cause it to flash. So the bulbs stay on.

If you replace the flasher with one designed for toying a trailer, which means you'd have more bulbs, or for LED's, which means there'd be less current, then it'll flash at a given rate no matter how many bulbs of what kind you have. But with the stock flasher you have to have all the bulbs to get it to flash correctly.

Ok

Thank you, good to know, a little to familiar with column assembly and disassembly at the moment.

Good night

Christian

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Ok

Thank you, good to know, a little to familiar with column assembly and disassembly at the moment.

Good night

Christian

Hi

Put in fresh bulbs, and turn light flashes in the instrument panel again:=)

Front right turn light flashes, but no turn signal light or brake light at rear right, Left side everything ok.

Hazard :everything works except rear right.

Obviously I am suspicious of the turn light switch, since this is the only thing I have changed.

But cant see anything wrong with it, all wires look good. Its orange/ltblue that gives the power to rear right brake and turn and it looks good. And switching with the old one, same result.

I have followed orange/ltblue from the direction light switch to the tail light assembly, and cant see no problem or discontinuity.

At the tail light assembly, everything looks good, dirty socket assembly´s, but I cleaned them up and cant see any loose wires. I probed with at test light at the front right turn light and I gives light, the rear no signal.

Then I thought of a bad ground, in diagram( below) back up light, tail, and direction shares a ground.

Cant seem to find it, but wires looks un tampered.

No reason wiring suddenly should have gone bad.

Thinking some wire has come loose with the work on the starter relay and the column.

Guess what I am saying, is that I'm stuck, any suggestion to lead me in the right direction (blink, blink)

Would much appreciated.

Best regards

Christian

Turn_light_dia.jpg.916e54c101ab0b956ebd3f9a92c2d358.jpg

 

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Hi

Put in fresh bulbs, and turn light flashes in the instrument panel again:=)

Front right turn light flashes, but no turn signal light or brake light at rear right, Left side everything ok.

Hazard :everything works except rear right.

Obviously I am suspicious of the turn light switch, since this is the only thing I have changed.

But cant see anything wrong with it, all wires look good. Its orange/ltblue that gives the power to rear right brake and turn and it looks good. And switching with the old one, same result.

I have followed orange/ltblue from the direction light switch to the tail light assembly, and cant see no problem or discontinuity.

At the tail light assembly, everything looks good, dirty socket assembly´s, but I cleaned them up and cant see any loose wires. I probed with at test light at the front right turn light and I gives light, the rear no signal.

Then I thought of a bad ground, in diagram( below) back up light, tail, and direction shares a ground.

Cant seem to find it, but wires looks un tampered.

No reason wiring suddenly should have gone bad.

Thinking some wire has come loose with the work on the starter relay and the column.

Guess what I am saying, is that I'm stuck, any suggestion to lead me in the right direction (blink, blink)

Would much appreciated.

Best regards

Christian

Do you have a running light on the right rear?

If so, it is feed and not ground that is the issue.

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Hi

Put in fresh bulbs, and turn light flashes in the instrument panel again:=)

Front right turn light flashes, but no turn signal light or brake light at rear right, Left side everything ok.

Hazard :everything works except rear right.

Obviously I am suspicious of the turn light switch, since this is the only thing I have changed.

But cant see anything wrong with it, all wires look good. Its orange/ltblue that gives the power to rear right brake and turn and it looks good. And switching with the old one, same result.

I have followed orange/ltblue from the direction light switch to the tail light assembly, and cant see no problem or discontinuity.

At the tail light assembly, everything looks good, dirty socket assembly´s, but I cleaned them up and cant see any loose wires. I probed with at test light at the front right turn light and I gives light, the rear no signal.

Then I thought of a bad ground, in diagram( below) back up light, tail, and direction shares a ground.

Cant seem to find it, but wires looks un tampered.

No reason wiring suddenly should have gone bad.

Thinking some wire has come loose with the work on the starter relay and the column.

Guess what I am saying, is that I'm stuck, any suggestion to lead me in the right direction (blink, blink)

Would much appreciated.

Best regards

Christian

First, your book implies that the ground for your truck is at the right rear light. But it isn't. There's a wire that comes all the way back to under the dash.

The 1985 EVTM shows, below, that there's a connector, C305, towards the bottom of the steering column. I'd check the O/LB wire there to see if the switch is feeding power to the lights. If so, it is the wiring and not the switch. If not, it is probably the switch.

1985-etm-page78.thumb.jpg.00b6f56f35b4982509e967bee74cb9a3.jpg

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First, your book implies that the ground for your truck is at the right rear light. But it isn't. There's a wire that comes all the way back to under the dash.

The 1985 EVTM shows, below, that there's a connector, C305, towards the bottom of the steering column. I'd check the O/LB wire there to see if the switch is feeding power to the lights. If so, it is the wiring and not the switch. If not, it is probably the switch.

1985-etm-page78.jpg.6d07ef03f1d55e86f52230b96d0c6b39.jpg

Ok

I will give it another look at the connectors at the bottom of the column.

But isn't O/lb in the green circles ? C305 looks like wire is LG?

1985-etm-page78.jpg.6d07ef03f1d55e86f52230b96d0c6b39.jpg

If it is a switch problem, isn´t weird that both old and new switch both give same symptoms?

Running lights is with the engine running? :nabble_smiley_blush:

/Christian

 

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