Sac79 Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 Friday update Last weekend we went for a long camping trip with truck, sleep in tent for 3 nights, truck was great. Had an incident though with at battery cable that lost its cable shoe, but that was easy fix. Back home I started out with two things In have looking to fix. First was bad Wiper switch, that I changed working nicely now. After that I tried to figure out why car won't start with key, previous owner have made an arrangement with starter button under dash, connected to + on battery and starter solenoid and will start fine so. Key will turn on heater and fuel pump but not crank. Dug in to column and changed key cylinder and ingnition switch, but problem was ignition actuator rod that was broken, had to order from ebay and waiting on it to reach Norway... But when I push the rod that goes into the ignition switch, it cranks but will not start, any thoughts on were to look, since it will start with bypass button but only crank with ( pushing the rod). ? lastly I got an offer too swap my bench seats with some nice bucket seats from a fellow bullnosian, thoughts ? Have a nice weekend Christian Seats look great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 Friday update Last weekend we went for a long camping trip with truck, sleep in tent for 3 nights, truck was great. Had an incident though with at battery cable that lost its cable shoe, but that was easy fix. Back home I started out with two things In have looking to fix. First was bad Wiper switch, that I changed working nicely now. After that I tried to figure out why car won't start with key, previous owner have made an arrangement with starter button under dash, connected to + on battery and starter solenoid and will start fine so. Key will turn on heater and fuel pump but not crank. Dug in to column and changed key cylinder and ingnition switch, but problem was ignition actuator rod that was broken, had to order from ebay and waiting on it to reach Norway... But when I push the rod that goes into the ignition switch, it cranks but will not start, any thoughts on were to look, since it will start with bypass button but only crank with ( pushing the rod). ? lastly I got an offer too swap my bench seats with some nice bucket seats from a fellow bullnosian, thoughts ? Have a nice weekend Christian The camping looks like fun! Well done! As for the seats, I think I'd swap! I believe the buckets will bolt right into your truck as they were an option on the Supercabs. On the starting issue, if I understand what you are saying, the starter will engage but the engine won't start - without pushing the bypass button. However, once you push the bypass button and the engine starts you can let up on the key and the bypass button and the engine will continue to run. Right? If that's true then I'm confused as the engine should catch as you let off the starter but without pushing the bypass button. Will it do that, at least sometimes? I say that it should catch as the key comes back to Run as the engine should still be spinning and in Run there is power to the ignition module and coil. And if it does then the issue is with the wiring from the Start terminal of the ignition switch to Splice 216, as shown below. If it won't do that then I think we need to figure out what the bypass switch is doing. Perhaps the previous owner put it there as a safety precaution and took out the wiring to S216? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted May 29, 2020 Share Posted May 29, 2020 The camping looks like fun! Well done! As for the seats, I think I'd swap! I believe the buckets will bolt right into your truck as they were an option on the Supercabs. On the starting issue, if I understand what you are saying, the starter will engage but the engine won't start - without pushing the bypass button. However, once you push the bypass button and the engine starts you can let up on the key and the bypass button and the engine will continue to run. Right? If that's true then I'm confused as the engine should catch as you let off the starter but without pushing the bypass button. Will it do that, at least sometimes? I say that it should catch as the key comes back to Run as the engine should still be spinning and in Run there is power to the ignition module and coil. And if it does then the issue is with the wiring from the Start terminal of the ignition switch to Splice 216, as shown below. If it won't do that then I think we need to figure out what the bypass switch is doing. Perhaps the previous owner put it there as a safety precaution and took out the wiring to S216? Those buckets look great! I'd definitely swap also. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papelione Posted May 30, 2020 Author Share Posted May 30, 2020 Those buckets look great! I'd definitely swap also. on key it will crank in start, on bypass it will start on start and continue to run this is the way I have been driven it until now. Going away on work for a week, actuator rod will arrive during that time. Will install rod and report back after that. With key fuel pump is operating In run and start and starter is operating in start, have not checked spark with key. But will do this when actuator rod is in place :=) Also waiting for Norwegian time correct plates that will fit better, and mounted trifecta 2.0 bedcover, worked great;=) have booked time at the nice guy is helping me with scrathes and dents, and he is to fix the nasty one over right rear wheel arch, and then new chrome will come on, ( see entry post). Guess good things come to those who wait. Now it is work time and looking forward to sort this out. Be safe. Christian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 30, 2020 Share Posted May 30, 2020 on key it will crank in start, on bypass it will start on start and continue to run this is the way I have been driven it until now. Going away on work for a week, actuator rod will arrive during that time. Will install rod and report back after that. With key fuel pump is operating In run and start and starter is operating in start, have not checked spark with key. But will do this when actuator rod is in place :=) Also waiting for Norwegian time correct plates that will fit better, and mounted trifecta 2.0 bedcover, worked great;=) have booked time at the nice guy is helping me with scrathes and dents, and he is to fix the nasty one over right rear wheel arch, and then new chrome will come on, ( see entry post). Guess good things come to those who wait. Now it is work time and looking forward to sort this out. Be safe. Christian Have a safe work trip. We will be here when you get back. Perhaps the rod will fix things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papelione Posted June 11, 2020 Author Share Posted June 11, 2020 Have a safe work trip. We will be here when you get back. Perhaps the rod will fix things. Ok back at it got the new part LMC calls it "steering lock lever", unfortunately while putting the column together last time turn lights did´nt work after.... pulled it apart again. can't see anything wrong around the turn light switch, hazard lights work. nothing loose. Could I have broken the turn light switch ? Best regards Christian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted June 11, 2020 Share Posted June 11, 2020 Ok back at it got the new part LMC calls it "steering lock lever", unfortunately while putting the column together last time turn lights did´nt work after.... pulled it apart again. can't see anything wrong around the turn light switch, hazard lights work. nothing loose. Could I have broken the turn light switch ? Best regards Christian Just taking a guess... there are two flashing units. One, mounted on the back of the fuse panel, is for the emergency [hazard] flashers. The one on the front of the fuse panel controls the turn signals. Make certain the flashing unit [round] has not been dislodged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papelione Posted June 11, 2020 Author Share Posted June 11, 2020 Just taking a guess... there are two flashing units. One, mounted on the back of the fuse panel, is for the emergency [hazard] flashers. The one on the front of the fuse panel controls the turn signals. Make certain the flashing unit [round] has not been dislodged. Its in place. Checked fuses , Blue 15A to DIR/BU was bad changed that one. Not sure what DIR/BU means but it didn't help. No battery on multi meter.... good news is it looks like I have a tilt column:=) Guess I call it a day. Over and out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted June 11, 2020 Share Posted June 11, 2020 Its in place. Checked fuses , Blue 15A to DIR/BU was bad changed that one. Not sure what DIR/BU means but it didn't help. No battery on multi meter.... good news is it looks like I have a tilt column:=) Guess I call it a day. Over and out. DIR/BU = Directional / Back Up lights You have a test light? Could use it to check for power and this is what I like to use in this case. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Papelione Posted June 12, 2020 Author Share Posted June 12, 2020 DIR/BU = Directional / Back Up lights You have a test light? Could use it to check for power and this is what I like to use in this case. Dave ---- If hazard lights work all the way round, would I be right to assume that fault is in flasher or switch? Since fuses, wires and bulbs are in order for Hazards to flash? Gary used this diagram in a another thread were one was having problem With RH turn lights, but since I have nothing besides Hazard, I thought testing flasher and if it Clears assume it\s the switch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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