Miss fire help

[Danny G]

If the Fitech sits where a carb goes then it is "throttle body". That means the fuel has to find its way down the loooooong manifold branches and can fall out of suspension. Instead port-injection like the factory did is a better solution. However, I don't know about the horror stories. I've not heard them, but then I've not been listening for them either.

And it should be pretty straightforward to swap engines and gain the EFI.

 

This is becoming a better solution every minute. I'm setting up a time to see the owner.

Also bonus, if I'm lucky it will have the 130amp 3g alternator on it.

[Gary Lewis]

Also bonus, if I'm lucky it will have the 130amp 3g alternator on it.

Yes, it should. And the charge cable.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Also bonus, if I'm lucky it will have the 130amp 3g alternator on it.

Trucks have pretty basic electrical needs.

No heated power seats and stuff like that in an early '90's E-series straight six van.

More than likely the four hole 95A 3G.

But you can always upgrade down the road, and trade it in as core. (95% wouldn't look twice, or even know)

[Danny G]

Trucks have pretty basic electrical needs.

No heated power seats and stuff like that in an early '90's E-series straight six van.

More than likely the four hole 95A 3G.

But you can always upgrade down the road, and trade it in as core. (95% wouldn't look twice, or even know)

With LED everything you could probably run most anything with that 95amp.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Trucks have pretty basic electrical needs.

No heated power seats and stuff like that in an early '90's E-series straight six van.

More than likely the four hole 95A 3G.

But you can always upgrade down the road, and trade it in as core. (95% wouldn't look twice, or even know)

With LED everything you could probably run most anything with that 95amp.

Perhaps...

But we're talking early '90's, and 5 way adjusting heated seats like you would find in a Lincoln, then add the draw of one of the 4,000 CFM fans needed to pull air through the radiator, front (and rear!) climate control blowers, etc..

Resistance heaters and motors don't come without a cost.

Add headlights and a rear window defroster in the winter months, when you're whole commute is in the dark -both ways- and you can envision the need for the larger output alternator.

I just like the fact that my 130 can put out more amps at fast idle than my 65A 2G firestarter could at redline.

And I do have the white LRC regulator.

[Danny G]

Perhaps...

But we're talking early '90's, and 5 way adjusting heated seats like you would find in a Lincoln, then add the draw of one of the 4,000 CFM fans needed to pull air through the radiator, front (and rear!) climate control blowers, etc..

Resistance heaters and motors don't come without a cost.

Add headlights and a rear window defroster in the winter months, when you're whole commute is in the dark -both ways- and you can envision the need for the larger output alternator.

I just like the fact that my 130 can put out more amps at fast idle than my 65A 2G fire starter could at redline.

And I do have the white LRC regulator.

Good points, even if it only has the 95, upgrading to a 130 shouldn't be hard at that point, should be serpentine belt so no added belts to prevent slipping, its already 3g so should be no wire mods (2g-3g) etc if the gauge is good, just a bump up in the maxi fuse.

[Danny G]

Perhaps...

But we're talking early '90's, and 5 way adjusting heated seats like you would find in a Lincoln, then add the draw of one of the 4,000 CFM fans needed to pull air through the radiator, front (and rear!) climate control blowers, etc..

Resistance heaters and motors don't come without a cost.

Add headlights and a rear window defroster in the winter months, when you're whole commute is in the dark -both ways- and you can envision the need for the larger output alternator.

I just like the fact that my 130 can put out more amps at fast idle than my 65A 2G fire starter could at redline.

And I do have the white LRC regulator.

Good points, even if it only has the 95, upgrading to a 130 shouldn't be hard at that point, should be serpentine belt so no added belts to prevent slipping, its already 3g so should be no wire mods (2g-3g) etc if the gauge is good, just a bump up in the maxi fuse.

I guess the "horror" stories are guys who had carbed 300's getting decent MPGs then going over to EFI drop down into the low teens.

Seems to be a handful of discussions about that around the inter-webs.

[Gary Lewis]

I guess the "horror" stories are guys who had carbed 300's getting decent MPGs then going over to EFI drop down into the low teens.

Seems to be a handful of discussions about that around the inter-webs.

You mentioned wiring or electrical issues in doing the swap, and I probably made it sound easy. And it really will be. But, what you'll be doing is something I'm getting ready to do, and Bill's already done.

Here are a couple of things to think about. First is the location of the ECU. In the van it is probably where it is in the later pickups - in the kick panel area outboard of the emergency brake pedal. Steve83 had some info on how he did it, and Bill has done it as well. But it takes a bit of ingenuity as there apparently isn't initially room for the ECU w/o making some changes.

Second, you'll be marrying two very different electrical strategies and you'll have to decide how you want to do that. Your pickup has fusible links running from the starter relay back to the ignition switch or fuse block. But the van probably has a power distribution box on the driver's fender with fuses and relays in it, as well as a smaller fuse block in the cab.

I think you'll need the PDB as some of those fuses and relays are used in the EEC system. So the question becomes how to marry the two electrical systems. My plan is to bring the long power feeds to the ignition switch and fuse block from the starter relay to the PDB, which will be much closer. And I plan to use some of the fuses in the PDB to replace the fusible links. But I've not done it yet, so can't tell you how hard nor effective it'll be.

However, you are the electrical guru, so how would you do it? And, by the way, I may have the wiring schematics for you in my '96 EVTM - I'll look in a bit.

[85lebaront2]

You mentioned wiring or electrical issues in doing the swap, and I probably made it sound easy. And it really will be. But, what you'll be doing is something I'm getting ready to do, and Bill's already done.

Here are a couple of things to think about. First is the location of the ECU. In the van it is probably where it is in the later pickups - in the kick panel area outboard of the emergency brake pedal. Steve83 had some info on how he did it, and Bill has done it as well. But it takes a bit of ingenuity as there apparently isn't initially room for the ECU w/o making some changes.

Second, you'll be marrying two very different electrical strategies and you'll have to decide how you want to do that. Your pickup has fusible links running from the starter relay back to the ignition switch or fuse block. But the van probably has a power distribution box on the driver's fender with fuses and relays in it, as well as a smaller fuse block in the cab.

I think you'll need the PDB as some of those fuses and relays are used in the EEC system. So the question becomes how to marry the two electrical systems. My plan is to bring the long power feeds to the ignition switch and fuse block from the starter relay to the PDB, which will be much closer. And I plan to use some of the fuses in the PDB to replace the fusible links. But I've not done it yet, so can't tell you how hard nor effective it'll be.

However, you are the electrical guru, so how would you do it? And, by the way, I may have the wiring schematics for you in my '96 EVTM - I'll look in a bit.

Ok, quick information on E series vans. EEC may be under the inside HVAC casing on the passenger side, PDC may be underhood, driver's side with a relay bank separate from it. Engine harness will connect at the top of the opening through the firewall to the inside, it will be a 42 way square bolt together unit and will have all the engine wiring except the alternator. Transmission will probably be another 16 way snap together connector near the 42 way one.

We dismantled a 1995 E150 conversion van with a very tired 302, worst engine choice possible for the weight.

[Danny G]

You mentioned wiring or electrical issues in doing the swap, and I probably made it sound easy. And it really will be. But, what you'll be doing is something I'm getting ready to do, and Bill's already done.

Here are a couple of things to think about. First is the location of the ECU. In the van it is probably where it is in the later pickups - in the kick panel area outboard of the emergency brake pedal. Steve83 had some info on how he did it, and Bill has done it as well. But it takes a bit of ingenuity as there apparently isn't initially room for the ECU w/o making some changes.

Second, you'll be marrying two very different electrical strategies and you'll have to decide how you want to do that. Your pickup has fusible links running from the starter relay back to the ignition switch or fuse block. But the van probably has a power distribution box on the driver's fender with fuses and relays in it, as well as a smaller fuse block in the cab.

I think you'll need the PDB as some of those fuses and relays are used in the EEC system. So the question becomes how to marry the two electrical systems. My plan is to bring the long power feeds to the ignition switch and fuse block from the starter relay to the PDB, which will be much closer. And I plan to use some of the fuses in the PDB to replace the fusible links. But I've not done it yet, so can't tell you how hard nor effective it'll be.

However, you are the electrical guru, so how would you do it? And, by the way, I may have the wiring schematics for you in my '96 EVTM - I'll look in a bit.

I'm going to have to look at schematics for both the van and the truck to give a solid answer on that one, but my intuition is telling me to convert to run fuse blocks/ the PDB. Will be a cleaner installation, easier to work with and trouble shoot in the long run as it puts everything in one convenient spot. I'm sure I can figure out a location or custom box for the ECU. I dont't know how big or small it is but when we can cross that bridge when we get there. I am not using the center dash speaker...maybe that will be a suitable location IDK.

Back on the "random miss fire" issue with the van. The owner says it cropped up after they did a new transmission. They have also replaced the starter, distributor, and ECU after the fact. I'm curious if it is not a misfire, but something that feels like a miss fire from the transmission side, like the torque converter slipping or something in the transmission causing the engine to get a sudden load that feels like a misfire. My trouble shooting side always defaults to the last thing someone messed with prior to the issue arising.