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Brake Pad Testing


Gary Lewis

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I subscribe to EE on YouTube.

It keys well with my geek gene and my facination with practical application of material science.

I did my own little brake friction testing this morning.

I drove to work with the parking brake set! :nabble_smiley_blush:

I think this is true of a lot of things. Stick to OEM consumables like plugs and pads.

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I think this is true of a lot of things. Stick to OEM consumables like plugs and pads.

This was obviously geared towards beginners, and those who are just starting to get into brake function. I could see something like this being played at Autozone or O'reilly.

It was an interesting watch, but there are quite a few other variables that relate to brake fade and performance than what was mentioned in the video.

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This was obviously geared towards beginners, and those who are just starting to get into brake function. I could see something like this being played at Autozone or O'reilly.

It was an interesting watch, but there are quite a few other variables that relate to brake fade and performance than what was mentioned in the video.

You should have experienced my 66 Shelby, in cold weather I would deliberately drive it about 3 or 4 blocks with the parking brake on to heat of those 10 X 2 1/2 metallic rear brakes. They were designed for high heat and lack of it = little or no rear brakes in the cold (say 20° F).

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You should have experienced my 66 Shelby, in cold weather I would deliberately drive it about 3 or 4 blocks with the parking brake on to heat of those 10 X 2 1/2 metallic rear brakes. They were designed for high heat and lack of it = little or no rear brakes in the cold (say 20° F).

It's definitely dumbed down for the YouTube audience.

There have been major improvements in friction material in the last few decades, since asbestos was banned.

Organics tend to be grabby when wet.

Metallic can be too abrasive, and poor when wet.

Ceramics, and ceramic/organic/metallic blends seen to be good compromise.

I'm using Motorcraft severe duty pads up front, and (I think) Raybestos shoes in the rear.

Obvs, I need to address them now.

ETA, and I need to have a look at my parking brake switch.

Most likely the thing has shifted or the little flag connector has come loose.

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It's definitely dumbed down for the YouTube audience.

There have been major improvements in friction material in the last few decades, since asbestos was banned.

Organics tend to be grabby when wet.

Metallic can be too abrasive, and poor when wet.

Ceramics, and ceramic/organic/metallic blends seen to be good compromise.

I'm using Motorcraft severe duty pads up front, and (I think) Raybestos shoes in the rear.

Obvs, I need to address them now.

ETA, and I need to have a look at my parking brake switch.

Most likely the thing has shifted or the little flag connector has come loose.

Jim - I thought maybe you had Bill's metallics in the rear and were just heating them up. :nabble_smiley_wink:

Hopefully they aren't hurt. And, I hope the Motorcrafts are good ones - have the same set awaiting installation, as you know.

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Jim - I thought maybe you had Bill's metallics in the rear and were just heating them up. :nabble_smiley_wink:

Hopefully they aren't hurt. And, I hope the Motorcrafts are good ones - have the same set awaiting installation, as you know.

Gary,

I have no complaint with the SD pads.

Consistent bite wet or dry, long lasting with little dust, and they don't eat rotors.

I don't know about hydroboost, or how they work with higher line pressures, but I think you will like them.

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