Gary Lewis Posted November 10, 2019 Share Posted November 10, 2019 If the plunger is to one end the brake warning light on the dash is supposed to be on. Does it come on when you first turn the key on? It is supposed to in order to prove the bulb is good. It does not but I am also running LED's and that one could be in 180* out? The light on if the plunger was off center did cross my mind and even thought of shorting the wire out to see if it worked but pressed for time I skipped that. Something else to add to the punch list LOL The only light that comes on is the seat belt light when key first turned. The turn & hi beam lights do work. How could I have missed the brake light? I have to return the booster and the battery for cores and will check if they have a PSI bleeder I can rent if not I will look into making one. I started to years ago but think I can come up with something a little easier to build & use. Thanks Dave ---- On the master, if you have to buy a new one you might consider the later plastic-bodied one. With the single opening you can easily make a pressure bleeder to go right on there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted November 10, 2019 Author Share Posted November 10, 2019 On the master, if you have to buy a new one you might consider the later plastic-bodied one. With the single opening you can easily make a pressure bleeder to go right on there. The master I have is new not reman. so if has to be replaced it will be for one like it. I did follow the post on doing this swap and for me it was just to much work finding different adaptors, lines, etc. I am lazy LOL but I also don't see the benefit for the work needed. Beside I think it would look out of place in my engine bay. I have to find the other valve assy. I have and maybe take it apart to see how it works and to make sure it does work. I just know something is not right with the brake system on this truck and has to be fixed. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted November 10, 2019 Author Share Posted November 10, 2019 The master I have is new not reman. so if has to be replaced it will be for one like it. I did follow the post on doing this swap and for me it was just to much work finding different adaptors, lines, etc. I am lazy LOL but I also don't see the benefit for the work needed. Beside I think it would look out of place in my engine bay. I have to find the other valve assy. I have and maybe take it apart to see how it works and to make sure it does work. I just know something is not right with the brake system on this truck and has to be fixed. Dave ---- Part of getting the brakes better is to pressure bleed them. Auto Zone does not lend pressure bleeding kits so was going to make one using a 1/2 gallon pump sprayer I picked up at the hard ware store. After modifying it to work with the hose I hade I felt it would not build up enough psi so I moved to finish building the one I started many years ago but did not use because I did not have a cap to use with it. So I used the old master cap drilled a hole and used a screw in tire valve with the core removed. I then trimmed the gasket to seal around the outside and to pass fluid between the 2 sides. The bleeder assy. is made from 3" PVC, 1/4" closed nipples and ball valves and a psi regulator/gauge. I just had to put the nipples, valves & reg./gauge on the PVC and used clear hose to go between the bleeder assy and cap. All was going good till the master filled up with fluid and then started spraying out the top as it had a vent I over looked. I pulled the cap cleaned it up and used JB Weld over the vent and it needs to setup for 15 hours before you can use it so it sits. Cap with JB Weld on it I will need to pick up some more brake fluid before I get back at it but I should be all set to pressure bleed the system. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 11, 2019 Share Posted November 11, 2019 Part of getting the brakes better is to pressure bleed them. Auto Zone does not lend pressure bleeding kits so was going to make one using a 1/2 gallon pump sprayer I picked up at the hard ware store. After modifying it to work with the hose I hade I felt it would not build up enough psi so I moved to finish building the one I started many years ago but did not use because I did not have a cap to use with it. So I used the old master cap drilled a hole and used a screw in tire valve with the core removed. I then trimmed the gasket to seal around the outside and to pass fluid between the 2 sides. The bleeder assy. is made from 3" PVC, 1/4" closed nipples and ball valves and a psi regulator/gauge. I just had to put the nipples, valves & reg./gauge on the PVC and used clear hose to go between the bleeder assy and cap. All was going good till the master filled up with fluid and then started spraying out the top as it had a vent I over looked. I pulled the cap cleaned it up and used JB Weld over the vent and it needs to setup for 15 hours before you can use it so it sits. Cap with JB Weld on it I will need to pick up some more brake fluid before I get back at it but I should be all set to pressure bleed the system. Dave ---- You are amazing! But what you are going through is one of the reasons I want to convert to the later master cylinder because it has the single cap and, therefore, you can pressurize it much easier. Anyway, I hope it works and solves your problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RenoHuskerDu Posted November 11, 2019 Share Posted November 11, 2019 You are amazing! But what you are going through is one of the reasons I want to convert to the later master cylinder because it has the single cap and, therefore, you can pressurize it much easier. Anyway, I hope it works and solves your problem. Can you tell me more about upgrading to newer MC? We already had trouble getting the correct MC from the parts runner. Diesels are all HD and the first two they send didn't fit. Would, say, the MC from an 89 bricknose diesel fit into an 86 diesel? Both are HD. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 11, 2019 Share Posted November 11, 2019 Can you tell me more about upgrading to newer MC? We already had trouble getting the correct MC from the parts runner. Diesels are all HD and the first two they send didn't fit. Would, say, the MC from an 89 bricknose diesel fit into an 86 diesel? Both are HD. I think the answer to the fitment question is yes. However, I also believe that the newer MC's ports are reversed from the later MC's ports, so you have to reverse the brake lines. And, from what I've read you will need a fitting to do that. I've not done it yet, but there's quite a discussion about it in this thread starting here. Until I get to it and write the 8-page microanalysis as Jim said, perhaps that one will do you? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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