ArdWrknTrk Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 This is the style of connectors I have on my trailer and on Big Blue: https://www.wiringproducts.com/high-power-connectors. I bought mine at Graybar if I remember correctly and didn’t pay that much. But, these connectors are expensive and you will need two of them as well as the terminals. I’ll see if I can find the exact ones I bought, but that will have to wait until I get home. You MIGHT get by with the 50 amp ones, but I’d be afraid of them myself. Yes, this is getting expensive, but it is the way to do it. Up here we have upfitters that carry all that stuff for the electric/hydraulic plows they sell and install. Plugs, sockets, cable... But like I said, oversize it. Cry once and be set for good. You don't want to get a longer trailer with a bigger winch, and have to rewire the whole truck because the circuit is too small Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 Gary, thanks for all the help! So, I think I've got all the information I need now. There are much cheaper Cole Hersee continuous duty solenoids than the one you posted awhile back. What is the difference between the $125 one and the $20, $30 and $40 ones? There are two differences. The easy one is that some of the cheaper relays aren’t rated at the amount of current you may be pushing. But the bigger difference is what I explained before - the cheaper ones just parallel the batteries when the key is on - assuming that is the way you wire it. But the smart one parallels them when the main battery gets up to 13.2 volts, if I remember correctly, and disconnects them if they get down to 12.7 volts. And that means that with the cheaper ones you can kill both batteries as well as the engine and be stuck in the back of beyond. But not so with the smart one. So, are you willing to bet that you nor anyone that uses the truck and trailer will do that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 Gary, thanks for all the help! So, I think I've got all the information I need now. There are much cheaper Cole Hersee continuous duty solenoids than the one you posted awhile back. What is the difference between the $125 one and the $20, $30 and $40 ones? Ray,. If you want models and specs go to the Texas Industrial Electric website. They have a HUGE array of relays, isolators, solenoids, whathaveyou. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 Up here we have upfitters that carry all that stuff for the electric/hydraulic plows they sell and install. Plugs, sockets, cable... But like I said, oversize it. Cry once and be set for good. You don't want to get a longer trailer with a bigger winch, and have to rewire the whole truck because the circuit is too small Amen, brother! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny G Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 Wire size. I used the calculator here (https://www.wirebarn.com/Wire-Calculator-_ep_41.html) and arbitrarily chose 20’ and 100 amps and got the results shown below. The length is assuming you run the ground to the frame of the truck and don’t run a ground wire from the battery, in which case the wire run would be longer. But you will run from the frame, through a new HD connector, and then to the battery. Do not try to use the trailer’s ground in the 7-pin as those terminals cannon handle the current. And the current of 100 amps is just a guess. It is less than the alternator can throw, but you have resistance in the circuit with all the wiring that will limit the current flow. And that says 1 gauge wire will work with a 2% voltage drop. But you could probably get by with 2 gauge. I’d go buy welding cable as Jim suggested. Now to find a connector..... Sounds about right Gary, off the top of my head 2 gauge should be good for up to 150amp <10ft of length, at 100amp he should be good under 15ft. After 15ft he needs a bigger hose, I would lean towards 1 gauge or larger. If he is cranking 75 or less 2 gauge should be satisfactory up to about 20-25 feet. Depending on where you go and the style of cable you are probably talking 10-15 or 30-40 cents per foot difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Cecil Posted November 7, 2019 Author Share Posted November 7, 2019 There are two differences. The easy one is that some of the cheaper relays aren’t rated at the amount of current you may be pushing. But the bigger difference is what I explained before - the cheaper ones just parallel the batteries when the key is on - assuming that is the way you wire it. But the smart one parallels them when the main battery gets up to 13.2 volts, if I remember correctly, and disconnects them if they get down to 12.7 volts. And that means that with the cheaper ones you can kill both batteries as well as the engine and be stuck in the back of beyond. But not so with the smart one. So, are you willing to bet that you nor anyone that uses the truck and trailer will do that? Okay. I understand. It will only be me using the winch. And, if I am idling the truck, won't that help it keep up? Also, I am just making sure I understand the grounding you spoke about. So...I run a 1/0 ground wire from the aux battery to the truck frame? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 Sounds about right Gary, off the top of my head 2 gauge should be good for up to 150amp <10ft of length, at 100amp he should be good under 15ft. After 15ft he needs a bigger hose, I would lean towards 1 gauge or larger. If he is cranking 75 or less 2 gauge should be satisfactory up to about 20-25 feet. Depending on where you go and the style of cable you are probably talking 10-15 or 30-40 cents per foot difference. My truck is 18' 8" bumper to bumper, and we know the cable isn't going to be straight. I'm thinking the trailer battery would probably be in a marine box bolted in the Vee. Then, on to wherever the winch is mounted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Cecil Posted November 7, 2019 Author Share Posted November 7, 2019 My truck is 18' 8" bumper to bumper, and we know the cable isn't going to be straight. I'm thinking the trailer battery would probably be in a marine box bolted in the Vee. Then, on to wherever the winch is mounted. Well, I just ordered a 25' 1/0 red cable from amazon. Might not be enough. But I might mount the box in the truck bed. That way I have nothing to lose on the trailer if it gets stolen. The winch will be mounted on the truck anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 Okay. I understand. It will only be me using the winch. And, if I am idling the truck, won't that help it keep up? Also, I am just making sure I understand the grounding you spoke about. So...I run a 1/0 ground wire from the aux battery to the truck frame? Yes, whatever wire size you run to the battery you’ll also run that size wire from the battery, through the connector, to the truck’s frame. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 7, 2019 Share Posted November 7, 2019 My truck is 18' 8" bumper to bumper, and we know the cable isn't going to be straight. I'm thinking the trailer battery would probably be in a marine box bolted in the Vee. Then, on to wherever the winch is mounted. Well, I just ordered a 25' 1/0 red cable from amazon. Might not be enough. But I might mount the box in the truck bed. That way I have nothing to lose on the trailer if it gets stolen. The winch will be mounted on the truck anyway. If the battery is in the truck bed you don’t need the connector in that run. But you may want it to the winch so you can permanently connect the winch’s wire to the connector and another connector to the battery. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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