LARIAT 85 Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 Jonathan - I don't think I need to get my hands on it as your dimensions are probably adequate. It looks like the pivot is a ball right at the end of the barrel. Given that and your measurements I have a good idea what is needed. Thanks, I'll do some more Googling. Another option would be to use a Fog Lamp switch from a 1979 - 1986 Mustang. While it's not entirely correct, it *is* a period-correct Ford piece, and uses the exact same script as the 1980 - 1986 bezel plate AND the exact same switch cap. http://www.foxresto.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/muCScvgv8MgA7Us2Cc_1_Eg.jpg https://photo.cargigi.com/adam/Dealers/65560/118013070/photo/201709270920-1fabp27m3ef171229-72.jpg http://image.mustangmonthly.com/f/9995906+w750+st0/mump_0806_05_z+1984_ford_mustang_GT_convertible+.jpg The Mustang switch bezel has a nifty light that illuminates when the fog lamps are turned on. This will look right at home mounted under the left side of the dashboard, just as it was on the Mustangs. In fact, the late 1970s full-size trucks used a very similar switch, but without the indicator light. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/870873-pics-of-factory-fog-lights-and-dash-switch.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 18, 2017 Author Share Posted December 18, 2017 Another option would be to use a Fog Lamp switch from a 1979 - 1986 Mustang. While it's not entirely correct, it *is* a period-correct Ford piece, and uses the exact same script as the 1980 - 1986 bezel plate AND the exact same switch cap. http://www.foxresto.com/v/vspfiles/assets/images/muCScvgv8MgA7Us2Cc_1_Eg.jpg https://photo.cargigi.com/adam/Dealers/65560/118013070/photo/201709270920-1fabp27m3ef171229-72.jpg http://image.mustangmonthly.com/f/9995906+w750+st0/mump_0806_05_z+1984_ford_mustang_GT_convertible+.jpg The Mustang switch bezel has a nifty light that illuminates when the fog lamps are turned on. This will look right at home mounted under the left side of the dashboard, just as it was on the Mustangs. In fact, the late 1970s full-size trucks used a very similar switch, but without the indicator light. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/870873-pics-of-factory-fog-lights-and-dash-switch.html Rick - That actually looks like a good option. Especially if the bezel doesn't turn out good or we can't find a replacement switch. On the switch, I've looked the tank switch over closely (pics below) and don't see an easy way to make it work. It mounts with an arm off to the side, and I can't figure out how to make that work. However, you can see in the pics that the arm is spot-welded to the face of the switch. So it is possible we can un-bend the tabs that hold the face on, then drill the spot-welds out, tap the face to take something like a #10 screw, and put the face back on. Then open up the D-shaped hole to take the rocker on the back of the arm, drill two holes, and mount the switch. And, the recess on the back of the dash looks to be just the right size to take that switch. But, all of that is if my other efforts are in vain. I've contacted the following: Grainger Industrial Supply: Sent them an email with Jonathan's pics and explained what we need. Allied Electronics: ditto Digikey: ditto and they've already responded that they don't have what we need, which didn't surprise me as they are mostly electronics, meaning miniature switches. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reamer Posted December 18, 2017 Share Posted December 18, 2017 Rick - That actually looks like a good option. Especially if the bezel doesn't turn out good or we can't find a replacement switch. On the switch, I've looked the tank switch over closely (pics below) and don't see an easy way to make it work. It mounts with an arm off to the side, and I can't figure out how to make that work. However, you can see in the pics that the arm is spot-welded to the face of the switch. So it is possible we can un-bend the tabs that hold the face on, then drill the spot-welds out, tap the face to take something like a #10 screw, and put the face back on. Then open up the D-shaped hole to take the rocker on the back of the arm, drill two holes, and mount the switch. And, the recess on the back of the dash looks to be just the right size to take that switch. But, all of that is if my other efforts are in vain. I've contacted the following: Grainger Industrial Supply: Sent them an email with Jonathan's pics and explained what we need. Allied Electronics: ditto Digikey: ditto and they've already responded that they don't have what we need, which didn't surprise me as they are mostly electronics, meaning miniature switches. Gary in the 6th post back, (your last drawing with measurements) the lower stud (by the "on" position) is correct, the upper stud, flip your measurements (left side measurement to the right side). Right side measurement to the Left and we may be good to go! Just looked up Foxresto....no listing of an independent "fog light" switch... Thanks Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 18, 2017 Author Share Posted December 18, 2017 Gary in the 6th post back, (your last drawing with measurements) the lower stud (by the "on" position) is correct, the upper stud, flip your measurements (left side measurement to the right side). Right side measurement to the Left and we may be good to go! Just looked up Foxresto....no listing of an independent "fog light" switch... Thanks Ron Good catch, Ron. Try the one below, although things shifted a couple of thou, I think they are close enough. Agree? Also, how long are the studs on yours? And, how thick is the rubber? My measurements say that the instrument bezel is .125" thick, and a 1/4-28 nut is .183, so that's .308". With the studs at .500" that leaves maybe .10" sticking out of the nut, but it appears there's plenty of room. What do you think? And, are we ready to convert this to .stl? That was the file format you submitted last time - right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reamer Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 Good catch, Ron. Try the one below, although things shifted a couple of thou, I think they are close enough. Agree? Also, how long are the studs on yours? And, how thick is the rubber? My measurements say that the instrument bezel is .125" thick, and a 1/4-28 nut is .183, so that's .308". With the studs at .500" that leaves maybe .10" sticking out of the nut, but it appears there's plenty of room. What do you think? And, are we ready to convert this to .stl? That was the file format you submitted last time - right? Overall height (from bezel face bead to end of stud) is 0.47" The rubber gasket is 0.042" thick Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 19, 2017 Author Share Posted December 19, 2017 Overall height (from bezel face bead to end of stud) is 0.47" The rubber gasket is 0.042" thick Then the studs will be overly long. However, there's more than enough room below the instrument bezel to accommodate the length, so I don't think it will be a problem. Can you get me some dimensions on the rubber? I could at least draw it up in case someone wants to make them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reamer Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 Then the studs will be overly long. However, there's more than enough room below the instrument bezel to accommodate the length, so I don't think it will be a problem. Can you get me some dimensions on the rubber? I could at least draw it up in case someone wants to make them. Update for all interested... The .stl file has be uploaded to the printer, they say 4-5 day lead time. I should have a sample around first of the year! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 19, 2017 Author Share Posted December 19, 2017 Update for all interested... The .stl file has be uploaded to the printer, they say 4-5 day lead time. I should have a sample around first of the year! Wonderful! Do you have a guestimate on what it'll cost? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 Wonderful! Do you have a guestimate on what it'll cost? Any one look over this site for the switch https://www.digikey.com/products/en/switches/toggle-switches/201 https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nkk-switches/M2011E3S1W01/360-3237-ND/1049250 Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 20, 2017 Author Share Posted December 20, 2017 Any one look over this site for the switch https://www.digikey.com/products/en/switches/toggle-switches/201 https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nkk-switches/M2011E3S1W01/360-3237-ND/1049250 Dave ---- I recently posted: But, all of that is if my other efforts are in vain. I've contacted the following: Grainger Industrial Supply: Sent them an email with Jonathan's pics and explained what we need. Allied Electronics: ditto Digikey: ditto and they've already responded that they don't have what we need, which didn't surprise me as they are mostly electronics, meaning miniature switches. Subsequently Allied came back and said "We have 2,048 switches. You can pick the one you want and order on-line." I've ordered a lot of stuff from Allied over the years, but I'm done. As for simple help and you get a response like that!? So we still have Granger as a possibility. Beyond that, I think I'll try to modify a tank switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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