Fog Light Bezel, Switch, etc

[reamer]

Pete - It will be interesting to see what you come up with. What software are you using?

Jim - it is Kasse FLF. And, I never said I do things the easy way. However, what I've been told is that scanning doesn't give a good of results as from a drawing.

Dave - No. There are three parts involved. The fog lamp bezel fastens to the instrument bezel with two studs that pass through holes in the instrument bezel. And, the plan is to use speed nuts on the plastic studs to hold it on, as Pete suggested. But the switch fastens to the dash by passing through a D-shaped hole and being held by a nut on the barrel of the switch. Then the arm of the switch passes through a slot in the instrument bezel and a slot in the fog lamp bezel.

(I think I made that complicated. )

Got the Bezel today

Here are the detailed measurements:

Fog_Light_Bezel_Measurements.docx

[Gary Lewis]

Got the Bezel today

Here are the detailed measurements:

Fog_Light_Bezel_Measurements.docx

Thanks for the measurements, Ron. I'll check them out.

[FuzzFace2]

Pete - It will be interesting to see what you come up with. What software are you using?

Jim - it is Kasse FLF. And, I never said I do things the easy way. However, what I've been told is that scanning doesn't give a good of results as from a drawing.

Dave - No. There are three parts involved. The fog lamp bezel fastens to the instrument bezel with two studs that pass through holes in the instrument bezel. And, the plan is to use speed nuts on the plastic studs to hold it on, as Pete suggested. But the switch fastens to the dash by passing through a D-shaped hole and being held by a nut on the barrel of the switch. Then the arm of the switch passes through a slot in the instrument bezel and a slot in the fog lamp bezel.

(I think I made that complicated. )

So this "D" shape hole where is this, on the dash I take it or ?

I just can not picture it

Now I can see this "D" shape hole as a bracket type thing the switch screws to then it fits up to the back side of the dash. The bezel fits on from the front side, this switch bracket then fits over the 2 studs and all of it gets held to the dash with the 2 speed nuts.

Dave ----

 

[Gary Lewis]

Pete - It will be interesting to see what you come up with. What software are you using?

Jim - it is Kasse FLF. And, I never said I do things the easy way. However, what I've been told is that scanning doesn't give a good of results as from a drawing.

Dave - No. There are three parts involved. The fog lamp bezel fastens to the instrument bezel with two studs that pass through holes in the instrument bezel. And, the plan is to use speed nuts on the plastic studs to hold it on, as Pete suggested. But the switch fastens to the dash by passing through a D-shaped hole and being held by a nut on the barrel of the switch. Then the arm of the switch passes through a slot in the instrument bezel and a slot in the fog lamp bezel.

(I think I made that complicated. )

So this "D" shape hole where is this, on the dash I take it or ?

I just can not picture it

Now I can see this "D" shape hole as a bracket type thing the switch screws to then it fits up to the back side of the dash. The bezel fits on from the front side, this switch bracket then fits over the 2 studs and all of it gets held to the dash with the 2 speed nuts.

Dave ----

I'll take another stab at 'splaining, but will be out in the shop after a bit and will take some pics to help your understanding and my 'splaining - and it is the latter that is probably the problem here.

The D-shaped hole is just that - a hole in the dash itself. The switch is inserted from the rear and a nut captures it on the front of the dash. Very similar to the wiper switch, which is just to the left.

The fog lamp bezel's studs are inserted through two holes in the instrument bezel and it is secured to the instrument bezel with speed nuts on the back side. However, the factory melted the studs over to secure the bezel - see the previous pic.

Once the bezels are attached to each other and the switch is attached to the dash itself the bezels are installed on the dash exactly as any instrument bezel would. The switch lever protrudes through the instrument bezel and the fog lamp bezel and a knob is affixed to it.

[FuzzFace2]

I'll take another stab at 'splaining, but will be out in the shop after a bit and will take some pics to help your understanding and my 'splaining - and it is the latter that is probably the problem here.

The D-shaped hole is just that - a hole in the dash itself. The switch is inserted from the rear and a nut captures it on the front of the dash. Very similar to the wiper switch, which is just to the left.

The fog lamp bezel's studs are inserted through two holes in the instrument bezel and it is secured to the instrument bezel with speed nuts on the back side. However, the factory melted the studs over to secure the bezel - see the previous pic.

Once the bezels are attached to each other and the switch is attached to the dash itself the bezels are installed on the dash exactly as any instrument bezel would. The switch lever protrudes through the instrument bezel and the fog lamp bezel and a knob is affixed to it.

OK I got it now

So 3 holes in the dash:

1 D shape for the switch

2 for the light bezel that will use speed nuts to hold it to the dash.

Now looking at the Ford bezel is the slot wide enough for the switch holding nut so it is not held out away from the main dash front?

I say this because it looks like the bezel has a rubber sweeper to hide the switch nut and did not know if the bezel would be held out some by the nut.

Or the nut fits from the front side like the wiper/light switch does?

It must now that I think of it because from the factory the bezel does not come off the dash as the studs are melted over. Then why the sweep?

I know I am over thinking this lol

Thanks

Dave ----

[Gary Lewis]

OK I got it now

So 3 holes in the dash:

1 D shape for the switch

2 for the light bezel that will use speed nuts to hold it to the dash.

Now looking at the Ford bezel is the slot wide enough for the switch holding nut so it is not held out away from the main dash front?

I say this because it looks like the bezel has a rubber sweeper to hide the switch nut and did not know if the bezel would be held out some by the nut.

Or the nut fits from the front side like the wiper/light switch does?

It must now that I think of it because from the factory the bezel does not come off the dash as the studs are melted over. Then why the sweep?

I know I am over thinking this lol

Thanks

Dave ----

The holes for the fog lamp bezel are in the instrument bezel, not the dash.

This is a sandwich, with the dash on the front side, the instrument bezel in the middle, and the fog lamp bezel on the back. The fog lamp bezel attaches to the instrument bezel, and the instrument bezel to the dash.

Pics after I finish my second cup and finish trying to reconcile the more than 50 measurements I've gotten to this point. Some measurements were taken to the outside of the bezel and similar ones taken to the inside of the bead. Some use different words to mean the same thing, and some similar words to mean different things.

[Gary Lewis]

The holes for the fog lamp bezel are in the instrument bezel, not the dash.

This is a sandwich, with the dash on the front side, the instrument bezel in the middle, and the fog lamp bezel on the back. The fog lamp bezel attaches to the instrument bezel, and the instrument bezel to the dash.

Pics after I finish my second cup and finish trying to reconcile the more than 50 measurements I've gotten to this point. Some measurements were taken to the outside of the bezel and similar ones taken to the inside of the bead. Some use different words to mean the same thing, and some similar words to mean different things.

Dave - Here's a snap of the holes in the dash. Left to right they are headlight, wiper, and fog lamp. Note the D-shape for both the wiper and fog lamp switches, with the flat orienting the switch properly as well as not allowing it to turn. I think the fog lamp switch mounts from behind with a nut on the front to hold, but then I've never seen one.

And here's an instrument bezel w/o the fog lamp bezel. You can see the holes where the studs go through for mounting the fog lamp bezel. Note that the top stud is dead-center in the top, but the bottom one is offset. You'll see more about that in the next post.

[PetesPonies]

Dave - Here's a snap of the holes in the dash. Left to right they are headlight, wiper, and fog lamp. Note the D-shape for both the wiper and fog lamp switches, with the flat orienting the switch properly as well as not allowing it to turn. I think the fog lamp switch mounts from behind with a nut on the front to hold, but then I've never seen one.

And here's an instrument bezel w/o the fog lamp bezel. You can see the holes where the studs go through for mounting the fog lamp bezel. Note that the top stud is dead-center in the top, but the bottom one is offset. You'll see more about that in the next post.

I stopped playing when the measurements didn't add up. I'm just using Sketchup.

[Gary Lewis]

Dave - Here's a snap of the holes in the dash. Left to right they are headlight, wiper, and fog lamp. Note the D-shape for both the wiper and fog lamp switches, with the flat orienting the switch properly as well as not allowing it to turn. I think the fog lamp switch mounts from behind with a nut on the front to hold, but then I've never seen one.

And here's an instrument bezel w/o the fog lamp bezel. You can see the holes where the studs go through for mounting the fog lamp bezel. Note that the top stud is dead-center in the top, but the bottom one is offset. You'll see more about that in the next post.

Ok, I think I have it done. I hope. See what you think, and then read the how-I-got-there part down below. But, I will say that this version fits the measurements I've gotten pretty well. So, what do you think?

Speaking of measurements, I spent a long time today reconciling the measurements I've gotten. I used the spreadsheet shown below. Ron's measurements were in decimal but Jonathan's were in fractions, so I converted to decimal. And then I had to translate Ron's words and Jonathan's words into my way of thinking - like border and bead. In addition, Ron took several measurements from the outside of the bezel and Jonathan took most of his from the inside of the bead, so I added the width of the bead to many of his measurements. Plus, Ron appears to have measured to the outside of the studs and I needed the centers, so I did a bit more math.

So, what does it look like in 3D? How's this?

Or this? (The green thing is a "light" I added in TurboCAD so we could actually see things.)

Here's the stud placement, and I made them yellow just for visibility.

And here are the locations of the studs, although you are looking at the backside with the top down.

Last, here are the locations of everything on the front.

[Ford F834]

Ok, I think I have it done. I hope. See what you think, and then read the how-I-got-there part down below. But, I will say that this version fits the measurements I've gotten pretty well. So, what do you think?

Speaking of measurements, I spent a long time today reconciling the measurements I've gotten. I used the spreadsheet shown below. Ron's measurements were in decimal but Jonathan's were in fractions, so I converted to decimal. And then I had to translate Ron's words and Jonathan's words into my way of thinking - like border and bead. In addition, Ron took several measurements from the outside of the bezel and Jonathan took most of his from the inside of the bead, so I added the width of the bead to many of his measurements. Plus, Ron appears to have measured to the outside of the studs and I needed the centers, so I did a bit more math.

So, what does it look like in 3D? How's this?

Or this? (The green thing is a "light" I added in TurboCAD so we could actually see things.)

Here's the stud placement, and I made them yellow just for visibility.

And here are the locations of the studs, although you are looking at the backside with the top down.

Last, here are the locations of everything on the front.

Awesome work Gary!

I stuck with fractions just because that is what my drill bit set was for measuring radii, but as I made more and more measurements I was thinking I should have done metric or decimal inch. Glad you got it all sorted out, and sorry for the confusion.

The computer drawings are very convincing! Only thing I wonder about is the line width on the lettering. The bolding only widened the vertical lines which really changed the look of the font a ~lot. The actual bezel font looks like the un bolded type but with thicker lines.

I'm really excited to see how this prints out in plastic!