reamer Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 I recently posted: But, all of that is if my other efforts are in vain. I've contacted the following: Grainger Industrial Supply: Sent them an email with Jonathan's pics and explained what we need. Allied Electronics: ditto Digikey: ditto and they've already responded that they don't have what we need, which didn't surprise me as they are mostly electronics, meaning miniature switches. Subsequently Allied came back and said "We have 2,048 switches. You can pick the one you want and order on-line." I've ordered a lot of stuff from Allied over the years, but I'm done. As for simple help and you get a response like that!? So we still have Granger as a possibility. Beyond that, I think I'll try to modify a tank switch. I'm thinking we can use any switch you want.... We don't have to "play by the rules" meaning having to use a FORD style plug and a particular mount. A flat handle toggle will do, and with some minor grinding to fit the Ford chrome knob, should be good to go? Gary has already ed-u-macated us on the use of relays, so "what happens behind the dash. stays behind the dash" (as long as it look good from the front)..... Here's one with a long throw, grind the sides down so the factory knob fits.... https://www.delcity.net/store/Bat-Handle-Toggle-Switch/p_789184.h_789189 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 I'm thinking we can use any switch you want.... We don't have to "play by the rules" meaning having to use a FORD style plug and a particular mount. A flat handle toggle will do, and with some minor grinding to fit the Ford chrome knob, should be good to go? Gary has already ed-u-macated us on the use of relays, so "what happens behind the dash. stays behind the dash" (as long as it look good from the front)..... Here's one with a long throw, grind the sides down so the factory knob fits.... https://www.delcity.net/store/Bat-Handle-Toggle-Switch/p_789184.h_789189 Ron - I agree we don't have to use a stock-style switch, especially since none are available. But, I'm not sure how well the switch you linked would work. My concern is due to the handle appearing to be an add-on over the original handle. So, if you grind it down to the width that the knob needs will the add-on then fall off? Or, maybe you mean just grind the end down, the part that the knob slips onto? In that case it should work, although you will see the larger handle behind the knob. Another very minor problem is that the hole in the dash is something less than 1/2" and that switch is 1/2" where it goes through the dash. However, that isn't a big problem as the hole can be enlarged. But it will have to be enlarged to the right as the hole in the dash doesn't align perfectly with the hole in the instrument bezel, as shown below. This shot was done with the camera as close to straight out as I could get it, and you can see that the hole in the dash is to the left of the one in the instrument bezel, and presumably the one in the fog lamp bezel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reamer Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 Ron - I agree we don't have to use a stock-style switch, especially since none are available. But, I'm not sure how well the switch you linked would work. My concern is due to the handle appearing to be an add-on over the original handle. So, if you grind it down to the width that the knob needs will the add-on then fall off? Or, maybe you mean just grind the end down, the part that the knob slips onto? In that case it should work, although you will see the larger handle behind the knob. Another very minor problem is that the hole in the dash is something less than 1/2" and that switch is 1/2" where it goes through the dash. However, that isn't a big problem as the hole can be enlarged. But it will have to be enlarged to the right as the hole in the dash doesn't align perfectly with the hole in the instrument bezel, as shown below. This shot was done with the camera as close to straight out as I could get it, and you can see that the hole in the dash is to the left of the one in the instrument bezel, and presumably the one in the fog lamp bezel. Just so has it, I do have an extra complete interior in Grey, (mine right now is Tan, but if I change my mind) complete with a grey dash super structure. Got one of those switches coming and can mock-up the dash, instrument cluster bezel, fog bezel, and switch for fitment. Yes, I will grind, or "finish" the lever and paint it black for the original look. (by the way look closely at the shots of the original, it looks like a regular "slide" switch with a lever extension)...... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 Just so has it, I do have an extra complete interior in Grey, (mine right now is Tan, but if I change my mind) complete with a grey dash super structure. Got one of those switches coming and can mock-up the dash, instrument cluster bezel, fog bezel, and switch for fitment. Yes, I will grind, or "finish" the lever and paint it black for the original look. (by the way look closely at the shots of the original, it looks like a regular "slide" switch with a lever extension)...... Ron - That may work well. But, you may not have to grind very much. Here's a shot of the backside of a knob. For reference the arm that goes in that spring retainer is .070" thick and .155" tall, although the opening is slightly bigger. And the knob measures: .510" x .510" on the back .340" x .450" on the front .560" long .25ish opening if the spring retainer were removed handle goes in .440" So, if you could thread the handle and put threads in the knob it would be easy. Don't know the shaft diameter of the handle, but the OD of #10 is .190", #12 is .216, and of course 1/4" is .250. I'm thinking that you could remove the retainer, place a lubed screw in there, and run JB Weld in around it. Pull the screw out when the JB Weld sets and screw the knob on the handle using a nut to lock it in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 21, 2017 Author Share Posted December 21, 2017 Ron - That may work well. But, you may not have to grind very much. Here's a shot of the backside of a knob. For reference the arm that goes in that spring retainer is .070" thick and .155" tall, although the opening is slightly bigger. And the knob measures: .510" x .510" on the back .340" x .450" on the front .560" long .25ish opening if the spring retainer were removed handle goes in .440" So, if you could thread the handle and put threads in the knob it would be easy. Don't know the shaft diameter of the handle, but the OD of #10 is .190", #12 is .216, and of course 1/4" is .250. I'm thinking that you could remove the retainer, place a lubed screw in there, and run JB Weld in around it. Pull the screw out when the JB Weld sets and screw the knob on the handle using a nut to lock it in place. Oh, and I should also say that Granger got back and doesn't have a switch like the original fog lamp switch. So, we do need to improvise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reamer Posted December 21, 2017 Share Posted December 21, 2017 Oh, and I should also say that Granger got back and doesn't have a switch like the original fog lamp switch. So, we do need to improvise. Good insight! I did get a NOS knob in the kit! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 Any one look over this site for the switch https://www.digikey.com/products/en/switches/toggle-switches/201 https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nkk-switches/M2011E3S1W01/360-3237-ND/1049250 Dave ---- Would this switch work better to fit the knob on? Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 22, 2017 Author Share Posted December 22, 2017 Any one look over this site for the switch https://www.digikey.com/products/en/switches/toggle-switches/201 https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/nkk-switches/M2011E3S1W01/360-3237-ND/1049250 Dave ---- Would this switch work better to fit the knob on? Dave ---- Dave - That one wouldn't work because the actuator length is less than 1/2" - 11.40mm to be exact. Jonathan said the arm on the correct switch is 1.15", which is about 30mm. In addition the actuator is flat on the end, which wouldn't work to thread. What we need is a toggle switch with a 30 mm long actuator that is 1/4" in diameter. That would make threading it easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted December 22, 2017 Share Posted December 22, 2017 Dave - That one wouldn't work because the actuator length is less than 1/2" - 11.40mm to be exact. Jonathan said the arm on the correct switch is 1.15", which is about 30mm. In addition the actuator is flat on the end, which wouldn't work to thread. What we need is a toggle switch with a 30 mm long actuator that is 1/4" in diameter. That would make threading it easy. It looks longer than what is posted and I don't do metric I was thinking with the flat you could grind it down a little and then slide the knob on it just would not be up/down but side to side or left the way it is. Well I tried and will keep looking to see if there is something else comes up. Dave---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reamer Posted December 23, 2017 Share Posted December 23, 2017 Dave - That one wouldn't work because the actuator length is less than 1/2" - 11.40mm to be exact. Jonathan said the arm on the correct switch is 1.15", which is about 30mm. In addition the actuator is flat on the end, which wouldn't work to thread. What we need is a toggle switch with a 30 mm long actuator that is 1/4" in diameter. That would make threading it easy. My "long throw" switch should be here next week, (along with the 3-D bezel on Tuesday) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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