ArdWrknTrk Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 My skill level is at the point where I would only paint a daily driver as I end up having runs when painting large areas and end up reworking areas so it takes me 2-3 weeks to let the first base + clear dry and cure fully and then go back and fix it... this car below was probably my biggest job and I never got to fixing the few runs... but when I sold it the buyer complemented me on how they had never seen a Honda with this green look like this one did.. I gave them the balance of the basecoat (About 1/2 gallon) to complete one day... Honda had a massive problem with this particular base coat color in the early 2000s. And you are 100% correct... I am actually paying attention to the paint on cars anymore and have an idea now on what a quality job is based on my areas of weakness... but 95% the paint jobs I look at, I have envy because of the difference vs what I am capable of... My ex had a Honda with a lighter 'Viridian Green Metallic' that the clear coat turned to chalk. I managed to get the worst off and found another hood then scuffed everything with a scotch Brite and shot it with cheap Transtar clear. Clear is challenging to keep from runs because it has no 'body' (pigment) and it's difficult to judge film thickness without really good lighting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 My ex had a Honda with a lighter 'Viridian Green Metallic' that the clear coat turned to chalk. I managed to get the worst off and found another hood then scuffed everything with a scotch Brite and shot it with cheap Transtar clear. Clear is challenging to keep from runs because it has no 'body' (pigment) and it's difficult to judge film thickness without really good lighting. Sounds like they had some issues with the 'green pigment chemistry' that affected long term reliability of the clear-coat. Look at any old Green honda from this time period. It was a mess after many years. You would think they would do accelerated reliability testing for long-term UV exposure and catch these problems. Maybe they did and realized it was good enough to survive 10 years in the field Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 Sounds like they had some issues with the 'green pigment chemistry' that affected long term reliability of the clear-coat. Look at any old Green honda from this time period. It was a mess after many years. You would think they would do accelerated reliability testing for long-term UV exposure and catch these problems. Maybe they did and realized it was good enough to survive 10 years in the field I think every auto manufacturer has had eras of clearcoat failures, whether UV resistance, adhesion or heat related (hood only) Polymer chemistry is tricky and ultraviolet will break those chains just like it mutates human DNA into melanoma. UV blockers have come a long way in paint as well as sunscreen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 I think every auto manufacturer has had eras of clearcoat failures, whether UV resistance, adhesion or heat related (hood only) Polymer chemistry is tricky and ultraviolet will break those chains just like it mutates human DNA into melanoma. UV blockers have come a long way in paint as well as sunscreen. Swept out the floor of the truck today and installed another light distributor advance spring, checked all fluids and took it for a rip. Sure seems to like the two light advance springs that came in the kit, didn't hear any pinging and it was noticeably peppier on the low end. Also honed the old block over the last few days, finished it tonight and checked the mainline on the old engine and it was perfect. Should be able to get that put together and out of the floor one of these days. I tell ya, the Lisle 15000 is the way to hone cylinders. Much better than the 3 stone flex hones you get at the parts store. I also scored a .020/.020 reground crank that turned out really nice and a reconditioned set of C9OE rods and a set of H336CP pistons to put it back together with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 14 Author Share Posted August 14 Swept out the floor of the truck today and installed another light distributor advance spring... You make it sound like those two take the same amount of effort. That Ford dizzy is NOT so easy to work on. But you obviously know what you are doing. Glad it worked out so well. And the other engine is coming right along as well. You make it sound so easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Starliner Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 Swept out the floor of the truck today and installed another light distributor advance spring... You make it sound like those two take the same amount of effort. That Ford dizzy is NOT so easy to work on. But you obviously know what you are doing. Glad it worked out so well. And the other engine is coming right along as well. You make it sound so easy. I fabricated a baseplate so that my throttle cable lines up with the linkage on my new Holley carb. I also changed the swivel ball. It was a bit loose from wear. It's too bad it cost me $22 for the universal kit to get the one linkage ball I needed, then throw the other three away! But anyway, I am happy with the results. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 14 Author Share Posted August 14 I fabricated a baseplate so that my throttle cable lines up with the linkage on my new Holley carb. I also changed the swivel ball. It was a bit loose from wear. It's too bad it cost me $22 for the universal kit to get the one linkage ball I needed, then throw the other three away! But anyway, I am happy with the results. Well done, Joe! That will make a big difference. I've done that a few times. The first time I didn't leave any slack in the linkage and it wouldn't return to idle each time. So I had to redo it. Live and learn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 Well done, Joe! That will make a big difference. I've done that a few times. The first time I didn't leave any slack in the linkage and it wouldn't return to idle each time. So I had to redo it. Live and learn. good job on seeing how to make the baseplate adapter and getting it done . and paying attention to making sure the ground stayed where it belongs. I do have a question though. what carb number is it? and why does it have the added bracketry if you only hooked the throttle cable to it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 Well done, Joe! That will make a big difference. I've done that a few times. The first time I didn't leave any slack in the linkage and it wouldn't return to idle each time. So I had to redo it. Live and learn. Yes, that's excellent. 👍 I'm pretty sure I bought the ball stud individually (from Holley) I was purchasing a gasket kit, powervalve and quick change secondary spring cap, so the order was going anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 14 Share Posted August 14 good job on seeing how to make the baseplate adapter and getting it done . and paying attention to making sure the ground stayed where it belongs. I do have a question though. what carb number is it? and why does it have the added bracketry if you only hooked the throttle cable to it? I think those Holley's always come set up for speed control and an automatic. Better than not, I suppose? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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