WHYDTYTT: What Have You Done To Your Truck Today?

[viven44]

ok so this is a learning project for you. not trying to talk down just to have a clear starting point. it is more challenging to do panel by panel and then try to add clear. not impossible just more challenging. the big issue is that when you cut the Metallic's and candies they change a bit. and can show a bit of a work pattern and then when you add the clear this gets highlighted. normally base/clear is done within a window of time so that the clear bonds to the uncured base. once a base is cured it requires a mechanical bond to hold the clear.

Cutting is the process of leveling clear coat by sanding and polishing it, to remove variations in orange peel and/or remove contaminants or runs. Usually easier when done within 48 hours of the clear coat completely curing. This is to present a uniform appearance across the vehicle.

I am no pro but base coats are generally sprayed and cleared within the time window. If you spray base coat too thick and too many layers on top of each other adverse reaction can happen between coats... reworking these areas will almost/always result in blistering. Cutting base coat is only done to remove runs, and runs are probably going to be the biggest problem... maybe contaminants too if you paint under a tree like me If multiple different panels are base coated, then it would also be good to clear them right away within the time window.

Matt, unless its a factory job or done in a paint booth, the odds are the clear coat on most jobs are going to have to be cut......... or at least that's my experience. If I see uniform orange peel across the vehicle typically, I know right away that it was intentional and a top quality paint job

[essmaker]

ok so this is a learning project for you. not trying to talk down just to have a clear starting point. it is more challenging to do panel by panel and then try to add clear. not impossible just more challenging. the big issue is that when you cut the Metallic's and candies they change a bit. and can show a bit of a work pattern and then when you add the clear this gets highlighted. normally base/clear is done within a window of time so that the clear bonds to the uncured base. once a base is cured it requires a mechanical bond to hold the clear.

Thanks to you and Viven both.

First time ever painting a vehicle and know barely anything other than a few videos. Never planned to but it is too difficult to find anyone in my area, so I said screw it, I'll do it.

I have no expectations of a great paint job...just needed something to make it presentable.

Sounds like I better get to putting clear on the two I painted today...not sure what rhe time window is. Hopefully at least a day.

[viven44]

ok so this is a learning project for you. not trying to talk down just to have a clear starting point. it is more challenging to do panel by panel and then try to add clear. not impossible just more challenging. the big issue is that when you cut the Metallic's and candies they change a bit. and can show a bit of a work pattern and then when you add the clear this gets highlighted. normally base/clear is done within a window of time so that the clear bonds to the uncured base. once a base is cured it requires a mechanical bond to hold the clear.

Thanks to you and Viven both.

First time ever painting a vehicle and know barely anything other than a few videos. Never planned to but it is too difficult to find anyone in my area, so I said screw it, I'll do it.

I have no expectations of a great paint job...just needed something to make it presentable.

Sounds like I better get to putting clear on the two I painted today...not sure what rhe time window is. Hopefully at least a day.

You can clear it later as long as you can give it a very mild scuff with a wet sand XXXXX Grit.... ask the experts, I have used 600 grit before... but sometimes the base coat can gum up if it is not fully cured...... so I have just ensured the surface cleanliness was good... I don't ever recall waiting 24 hours and spraying clear... I have sprayed base and then come back a week later, scuffed it and sprayed clear.... and as Matt said the metallics may make these a bit more visible but at my skill level those things don't matter.......... I usually have bigger fish to fry If you are not after excellent appearance the process window is wide open

[essmaker]

You can clear it later as long as you can give it a very mild scuff with a wet sand XXXXX Grit (ask the experts, I have used 600 grit before) and as Matt said the metallics may make these a bit more visible but at my skill level those things don't matter.......... I usually have bigger fish to fry If you are not excellent appearance the process window is wide open

Thanks, I was just reading up on it. I certainly have blown past the recommendations of 30 minutes 😀

I think I will just go ahead and continue to paint the truck at this point being I am semi-comfortable with that right now. If once done I can't stand not having clear on it, I'll cross that bridge.

Tired of this sitting in the barn rather than on the road ad it should be.

[viven44]

You can clear it later as long as you can give it a very mild scuff with a wet sand XXXXX Grit (ask the experts, I have used 600 grit before) and as Matt said the metallics may make these a bit more visible but at my skill level those things don't matter.......... I usually have bigger fish to fry If you are not excellent appearance the process window is wide open

Thanks, I was just reading up on it. I certainly have blown past the recommendations of 30 minutes 😀

I think I will just go ahead and continue to paint the truck at this point being I am semi-comfortable with that right now. If once done I can't stand not having clear on it, I'll cross that bridge.

Tired of this sitting in the barn rather than on the road ad it should be.

If it is sitting in a barn... and the base will cure fully you should be able to clear it again a week or a month later... but be sure to scuff everything (Wet sand preferably... but if it has cured well, dry may work without gumming) ... I am not giving professional advice just amateur based on my experience..

[essmaker]

If it is sitting in a barn... and the base will cure fully you should be able to clear it again a week or a month later... but be sure to scuff everything (Wet sand preferably... but if it has cured well, dry may work without gumming) ... I am not giving professional advice just amateur based on my experience..

Well, I wish I wouldn't have just made that decision.

I thought, it has only been a few hours at this point and it is humid...so I went and cleared both fenders. Certainly look like orange peels now. I'll see what it looks like in the morning.

Went from pleased with my first attempt at putting paint on to disgusted.

[essmaker]

Well, I wish I wouldn't have just made that decision.

I thought, it has only been a few hours at this point and it is humid...so I went and cleared both fenders. Certainly look like orange peels now. I'll see what it looks like in the morning.

Went from pleased with my first attempt at putting paint on to disgusted.

Now that I stopped whining, I suspect, i need another coat or two of clear here tonight....at least that is what the all powerful internet tells me...

[mat in tn]

If it is sitting in a barn... and the base will cure fully you should be able to clear it again a week or a month later... but be sure to scuff everything (Wet sand preferably... but if it has cured well, dry may work without gumming) ... I am not giving professional advice just amateur based on my experience..

I have a bad habit of going overboard. its driving me crazy having a rolling, running truck sitting in the garage covered in blankets waiting for me to paint the cab. the cab is in storage at the fab shop for a year now. I really miss having my paint booth. so, I am about to build another but keep getting pulled in other directions.

anyhow, it is normal for a base clear to need a rest (flash time) of 30 minutes for the solvents to evaporate yet before fully dry for the next coat or clear to be applied. I do not mind using a solid color and doing a clear much later because there are no metallics to expose or disturb by sanding. but make no mistake, mechanical bond of the clear is not the same. not to be a downer but think of all the vehicles we see with the clear flaking off. and from the factory! base clear is best applied as a component system and done within the flash time window.

my daily driver is one that I painted five years ago and did a wetlook patina paint job. fake rust on the fiberglass and all, before I had my garage all but the "build" stayed outside. the roof lost its clear first, then the hood, now the tops of the bedsides. it really works with the patina theme but I did not plan it that way, so it bugs me. basically, the sun burn was stronger than the mechanical bond. the sides still look new.

frankly I think it is great that you are doing this yourself. you will learn much and you will never look at paint jobs the same. ever! great respect for a great finish and the sense of accomplishment.

[essmaker]

I have a bad habit of going overboard. its driving me crazy having a rolling, running truck sitting in the garage covered in blankets waiting for me to paint the cab. the cab is in storage at the fab shop for a year now. I really miss having my paint booth. so, I am about to build another but keep getting pulled in other directions.

anyhow, it is normal for a base clear to need a rest (flash time) of 30 minutes for the solvents to evaporate yet before fully dry for the next coat or clear to be applied. I do not mind using a solid color and doing a clear much later because there are no metallics to expose or disturb by sanding. but make no mistake, mechanical bond of the clear is not the same. not to be a downer but think of all the vehicles we see with the clear flaking off. and from the factory! base clear is best applied as a component system and done within the flash time window.

my daily driver is one that I painted five years ago and did a wetlook patina paint job. fake rust on the fiberglass and all, before I had my garage all but the "build" stayed outside. the roof lost its clear first, then the hood, now the tops of the bedsides. it really works with the patina theme but I did not plan it that way, so it bugs me. basically, the sun burn was stronger than the mechanical bond. the sides still look new.

frankly I think it is great that you are doing this yourself. you will learn much and you will never look at paint jobs the same. ever! great respect for a great finish and the sense of accomplishment.

I just put on a 3rd coat with about 30 minutes in between. It was looking a bit better.

I just keep telling myself, even in primer, it is 100 times better than when I rescued it. 😀

Absolutely a huge learning experience. Doing it this time has taught me more about how much I don't know than the bit I thought I did. It would go very differently if there is a next time.

Thanks again all for the help!!

[viven44]

I have a bad habit of going overboard. its driving me crazy having a rolling, running truck sitting in the garage covered in blankets waiting for me to paint the cab. the cab is in storage at the fab shop for a year now. I really miss having my paint booth. so, I am about to build another but keep getting pulled in other directions.

anyhow, it is normal for a base clear to need a rest (flash time) of 30 minutes for the solvents to evaporate yet before fully dry for the next coat or clear to be applied. I do not mind using a solid color and doing a clear much later because there are no metallics to expose or disturb by sanding. but make no mistake, mechanical bond of the clear is not the same. not to be a downer but think of all the vehicles we see with the clear flaking off. and from the factory! base clear is best applied as a component system and done within the flash time window.

my daily driver is one that I painted five years ago and did a wetlook patina paint job. fake rust on the fiberglass and all, before I had my garage all but the "build" stayed outside. the roof lost its clear first, then the hood, now the tops of the bedsides. it really works with the patina theme but I did not plan it that way, so it bugs me. basically, the sun burn was stronger than the mechanical bond. the sides still look new.

frankly I think it is great that you are doing this yourself. you will learn much and you will never look at paint jobs the same. ever! great respect for a great finish and the sense of accomplishment.

My skill level is at the point where I would only paint a daily driver as I end up having runs when painting large areas and end up reworking areas so it takes me 2-3 weeks to let the first base + clear dry and cure fully and then go back and fix it... this car below was probably my biggest job and I never got to fixing the few runs... but when I sold it the buyer complemented me on how they had never seen a Honda with this green look like this one did.. I gave them the balance of the basecoat (About 1/2 gallon) to complete one day... Honda had a massive problem with this particular base coat color in the early 2000s.

And you are 100% correct... I am actually paying attention to the paint on cars anymore and have an idea now on what a quality job is based on my areas of weakness... but 95% the paint jobs I look at, I have envy because of the difference vs what I am capable of...