mat in tn Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 Staying in OD for longer than expected ? So it didn't downshift when it was supposed to ? That job would probably take me a few days, possibly a week ... And thanks Gary for that wiring diagram well, I do aod's routinely. so, pulling and setting are nearly a blindfold operation. my biggest challenge seems to be not spilling fluid. it's worth the time to drain as much as possible. converter also. as to what caused it to stay in od too long, I have a working theory. all of the valving in the valve body was free to move and only had spring tension. I believe the issue is that the od servo piston was allowed to pump to the edge of the housing where it is tapered and the seal had to be forced back by the spring as soon as the direct clutch was turned off relieving the side load holding it in a bind. (theory) verified at least in my investigation. this is not one of my modified builds so it should have been more of a drop in of many of these parts and since it retained the "b" servo piston most commonly found in trucks that we build (as opposed to "c" found in light duty cars). had it been a modified then I would have fitted it by hand filing the pin to the specified length as is required by the super hold servo. they ship long to be fitted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 well, I do aod's routinely. so, pulling and setting are nearly a blindfold operation. my biggest challenge seems to be not spilling fluid. it's worth the time to drain as much as possible. converter also. as to what caused it to stay in od too long, I have a working theory. all of the valving in the valve body was free to move and only had spring tension. I believe the issue is that the od servo piston was allowed to pump to the edge of the housing where it is tapered and the seal had to be forced back by the spring as soon as the direct clutch was turned off relieving the side load holding it in a bind. (theory) verified at least in my investigation. this is not one of my modified builds so it should have been more of a drop in of many of these parts and since it retained the "b" servo piston most commonly found in trucks that we build (as opposed to "c" found in light duty cars). had it been a modified then I would have fitted it by hand filing the pin to the specified length as is required by the super hold servo. they ship long to be fitted. "to be fitted.".... There is definitely a lot of know-how that goes into building these things! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 "to be fitted.".... There is definitely a lot of know-how that goes into building these things! Dumped some rocks at the transfer station on my way to work. While I got out I had to find the curb weight of Big Blue 2WD Roughly 4800 lbs vs advertised 4100 lbs CGWR. I got out but included is maybe a backpack 🎒 car seat 💺 and some extra 50lb worth spares and supplies... advertised weight is without specification of engine or transmission or I'm sure a 460 vs 300 will make a difference... today's diesels have a reduced payload, but back in the day people didn't nitpick Oh I forgot. I have that aftermarket hitch receiver... I don't know what it weighs. Maybe another 50-100 lbs there. About 33 gallons of gas total (~200 lbs). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 Dumped some rocks at the transfer station on my way to work. While I got out I had to find the curb weight of Big Blue 2WD Roughly 4800 lbs vs advertised 4100 lbs CGWR. I got out but included is maybe a backpack 🎒 car seat 💺 and some extra 50lb worth spares and supplies... advertised weight is without specification of engine or transmission or I'm sure a 460 vs 300 will make a difference... today's diesels have a reduced payload, but back in the day people didn't nitpick Oh I forgot. I have that aftermarket hitch receiver... I don't know what it weighs. Maybe another 50-100 lbs there. About 33 gallons of gas total (~200 lbs). Wow, that's crazy. My tare is closer to 6.700# (200 of that is me) But I have toolboxes in the bed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
essmaker Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 Wow, that's crazy. My tare is closer to 6.700# (200 of that is me) But I have toolboxes in the bed. Finally, after a lot of travel and other projects, getting back to the truck. A lot of sanding now to do. Working on the cab and Fenders first and will then do doors, hood and misc. New found respect for body guys. Tedious work, but not something that you can just whip through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
essmaker Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 Finally, after a lot of travel and other projects, getting back to the truck. A lot of sanding now to do. Working on the cab and Fenders first and will then do doors, hood and misc. New found respect for body guys. Tedious work, but not something that you can just whip through. Two fenders painted....a whole fricken truck to go. Not bad for a redneck (note my awesome paint stand/ cherry picker) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 Two fenders painted....a whole fricken truck to go. Not bad for a redneck (note my awesome paint stand/ cherry picker) love the color. what type paint is it ? is it getting clear? are you planning to cut it? yes, the stand is actually a great way to do it especially if doing both sides. I definitely prefer spraying forward as opposed to downward. hoods and roofs are more challenging. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
viven44 Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 Wow, that's crazy. My tare is closer to 6.700# (200 of that is me) But I have toolboxes in the bed. Weighed in my bronco as well on my way to pick up kids. Includes about 20 gallons of gas (180 lbs) and some 50 lbs of supplies. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
essmaker Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 love the color. what type paint is it ? is it getting clear? are you planning to cut it? yes, the stand is actually a great way to do it especially if doing both sides. I definitely prefer spraying forward as opposed to downward. hoods and roofs are more challenging. It is a Duplicolor deep metallic blue. I do plan to clear it once I have all the other paint work done and hopefully do it in one shot. Not sure what "cut it" means? I hope to have the cab sanded and prepped tomorrow...maybe painted if I get the time. The hood I have ready for primer, the doors are a whole other story that are going to invovle some work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted August 13 Share Posted August 13 love the color. what type paint is it ? is it getting clear? are you planning to cut it? yes, the stand is actually a great way to do it especially if doing both sides. I definitely prefer spraying forward as opposed to downward. hoods and roofs are more challenging. It is a Duplicolor deep metallic blue. I do plan to clear it once I have all the other paint work done and hopefully do it in one shot. Not sure what "cut it" means? I hope to have the cab sanded and prepped tomorrow...maybe painted if I get the time. The hood I have ready for primer, the doors are a whole other story that are going to invovle some work. ok so this is a learning project for you. not trying to talk down just to have a clear starting point. it is more challenging to do panel by panel and then try to add clear. not impossible just more challenging. the big issue is that when you cut the Metallic's and candies they change a bit. and can show a bit of a work pattern and then when you add the clear this gets highlighted. normally base/clear is done within a window of time so that the clear bonds to the uncured base. once a base is cured it requires a mechanical bond to hold the clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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